How to get the best gas mileage on my fc
09-04-13, 01:20 PM
#51
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my TII with haltech e6k regulary got 28 mpg on interstate trips. keeping headlights down and a/c off helped. im sure if it was non-turbo and higher diff gearing, it would break 30mpg
another interesting factor is keeping secondary throttle plates closed. i noticed that would get you another 2-3 mpg, it keeps air flow velocity up, since its only using your primary ports
another interesting factor is keeping secondary throttle plates closed. i noticed that would get you another 2-3 mpg, it keeps air flow velocity up, since its only using your primary ports
1. the stock ECU for the turbo runs in closed loop right up to 1psi or 3500rpm, which is an easy zone to stay in. once you open up the exhaust, the turbo is fast enough to keep up with traffic (here).
2 the stock turbo isn't very good at this, but there is a spot with a turbo where it helps moving air without needing much energy to drive, and thus can actually HELP mileage/efficiency. i think the stock turbo will be bad at this, or the spot it happens is someplace useless.
i guess this is my way of saying 23-24+ mpg is easier on a turbo than on an NA
09-04-13, 01:31 PM
#52
the turbo can also help the car get up to cruising speed with less effort/wasted gas. acceleration is what kills mileage with the rotary engine, so if your acceleration maps are tuned well i would venture to say that a turbo engine would be more efficient than the n/a.
13-14 AFR with a few psi of boost nets better acceleration on the turbo than an n/a, once in moderate-high boost though the rules change.
resolution of mapping is the most difficult hurdle with turbo engines though, i have 4 vacuum cells to map ALL of my cruising/idle maps that are used regularly where a non turbo could be refined to up to 20. even with that poor resolution i get more than most do.
13-14 AFR with a few psi of boost nets better acceleration on the turbo than an n/a, once in moderate-high boost though the rules change.
resolution of mapping is the most difficult hurdle with turbo engines though, i have 4 vacuum cells to map ALL of my cruising/idle maps that are used regularly where a non turbo could be refined to up to 20. even with that poor resolution i get more than most do.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-04-13 at 01:36 PM.
09-04-13, 01:56 PM
#53
??????????
Stance it with herrafrush 0 offset 11" wide varstonnens on 195 tires (just a little camber and fender work, no biggie), get a 4" fart cannon out the back and a dryer hose/OBX filter for the intake. Now underlight it, chop the springs, and put some Illest stickers on the paintjob.
35mpg easy. Plastidip get you another 5mpg or 10rwhp, your choice.
35mpg easy. Plastidip get you another 5mpg or 10rwhp, your choice.
Now back 2 the topic so if i get a standalone with better resolution and mess around with the timing maps at vacuum i should be able 2 get near or better than stock NA FCs gas milaege on my turbo fc?
09-04-13, 03:47 PM
#54
And that is so truth...sadly but true.All this getto rigged FCs is what is left
Now back 2 the topic so if i get a standalone with better resolution and mess around with the timing maps at vacuum i should be able 2 get near or better than stock NA FCs gas milaege on my turbo fc?
Now back 2 the topic so if i get a standalone with better resolution and mess around with the timing maps at vacuum i should be able 2 get near or better than stock NA FCs gas milaege on my turbo fc?
09-04-13, 03:49 PM
#55
Yea but i forgot 2 add that i drive a bridgeported motor
Im still running my old LTS-8 but in a couple of days i am gonna be swapping in a LT9C direct fire setup and i hope that with the individual rotor trim option and using a combination of tps and map 2 tune the car i might be able 2 get better gas milaege.
Im still running my old LTS-8 but in a couple of days i am gonna be swapping in a LT9C direct fire setup and i hope that with the individual rotor trim option and using a combination of tps and map 2 tune the car i might be able 2 get better gas milaege.
09-04-13, 04:34 PM
#57
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Yea but i forgot 2 add that i drive a bridgeported motor
Im still running my old LTS-8 but in a couple of days i am gonna be swapping in a LT9C direct fire setup and i hope that with the individual rotor trim option and using a combination of tps and map 2 tune the car i might be able 2 get better gas milaege.
Im still running my old LTS-8 but in a couple of days i am gonna be swapping in a LT9C direct fire setup and i hope that with the individual rotor trim option and using a combination of tps and map 2 tune the car i might be able 2 get better gas milaege.
09-04-13, 05:41 PM
#60
Rotary Evolution i know.....trust me i know.It was sponsored thru my job,i did not pay a penny for it.It does have save 2 disk(well at least on the manual said IT DOES)and some other **** but still the same old thing.I am just done with the harness so maybe tomorrow i can power it up and play with software and see.
09-05-13, 01:27 PM
#61
also, I wanted to point out that the rotors only spin 1/3 the RPM tach reading. because of this, for all intensive purposes, I feel that when in motion, the idle of the car should be around 3krpms, to keep the rotors moving at a comfortable 1k rpms. the eshaft may be spinning at a certain speed, but the rotor speed is something much smaller and should be noted while driving.
09-05-13, 01:33 PM
#62
Rotary Evolution i know.....trust me i know.It was sponsored thru my job,i did not pay a penny for it.It does have save 2 disk(well at least on the manual said IT DOES)and some other **** but still the same old thing.I am just done with the harness so maybe tomorrow i can power it up and play with software and see.
bastards won't even get back to me about checking to see if this unit a customer bought is setup for an FC or FD, just telling me to send it in, send it in, send it in. do i want a car sitting in my shop for a month while i send an ECU around the world just to check the configuration? **** em. wish he bought a new one/different brand instead. had an issue first with the previous owner putting a lock code on the ecu, they told me to send it in, i told them these ECUs have been unlocked remotely before and not to waste my time(sent them the unique string of characters mentioned by someone else).. after that they stopped replying or offering any assistance. luckily we did get a hold of the previous owner, got the code but not getting a crank signal off the FC CAS(did i mention he didn't know which engine configuration it was off of? but it was an older rotary car with a newer rotary engine swap*sigh*).
i'm done with microtech. these problems are secluded to their ideology.
also, I wanted to point out that the rotors only spin 1/3 the RPM tach reading. because of this, for all intensive purposes, I feel that when in motion, the idle of the car should be around 3krpms, to keep the rotors moving at a comfortable 1k rpms. the eshaft may be spinning at a certain speed, but the rotor speed is something much smaller and should be noted while driving.
this isn't a boinger, the rotors do spin much slower but also do 3 times the work of a single piston. idling that high just causes excessive heat buildup and wasted fuel for no benefit.
with that thinking the rotary engine should be able to accomplish a 21,000 RPM redline. good luck with that. (while it has been done with a rotary engine the tolerances were not what we have to work with in the mazda production engines. the test engine also had no load, like the 25lb spinning brick mounted to the backside of the engine. perfect balance would have to be acheived, not the 50g rotor balance we have along with the multiplying factor that the front/rear weights cause when not perfectly balanced to the assembly.) then there is ignition requirements, which most coils cannot cover such a broad range/charge time deficiencies and would probably have to run an auto igniting fuel such as nitro methane which couldn't be used for anything other than a generator.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-05-13 at 02:02 PM.
09-05-13, 03:31 PM
#65
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the guy who just bought my Vert just took it to LA, 25mpg. car is totally stock... recent tuneup.
09-05-13, 10:35 PM
#67
My S5 n/a gets 14-15 MPG in mostly city, 17-18 MPG in 50/50 mix and 21-23 MPG on highway with stock spark and fuel maps and some bolt-on parts. I am not driving to maximize MPG - but rather more like maximize fun. I suppose I should pull the wide band O2 and Rtek7 off the shelf and install them if I ever hope to get better than that or just install a piston engine
09-06-13, 12:02 AM
#69
also, cruise control, lightweight components, 15 inch rims, eco types, throttle cable adjustments, exhaust tuning, ecu tuning, spark plug wires, ignition amplifier, etc. may all help. what i meant by the rotors are spinning 1/3 the tach rpms, is that the ports are not efficient at super low rpms, and that when in motion its good to keep the car at about 3k rpms at low speeds. i notice in first and second i have to rev to 4500 and 4000 ish because i have a heavy 91. rotary really requires kind of a funky drive, like driving a turbine engine. kinda counter intuitive, since most of us learn dirving habbits on piston engine cars. been driving rx7s for 10 years, still learning.
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