I must admit my embarrasing lack of knowledge when it comes to wiring. This weekend I will be adding 2 gauges to my car and am very excited about it. However, with all the reading of every thread I could find here. I'm still not exactly sure how to do wiring "properly." Reason beging, one thing I would HATE would be to show my car to Aaroncake oneday, only to see him grimace at monkey wiring. LOL!

The gauges I will be installing are Air-Fuel and Boost/Vac. The AFR gauge, I understand can be connected to the ECU. I gathered from NZ that power, ground, and O2 can be gotten there. So here are my questions.
Before I go chopping into the wires at the ECU ...

I will obviously need to extend the wires that come connected to the gauge since they can't reach all the way to the ECU from the A-Pillar.
What kind of wire should I purchase?

I have also gathered that soldering (as opposed to using clips) provides the least amount of "resistance" if any. So I take the new wire, strip back what... about 5mm or so? Then do I use some actual solder to connect them? Ifso, what kind? Then how do I seal it? Electrical tape? Or, that shrink-tube stuff?

Now, when I get to the ECU, how far back from the plug would you recommend that I cut the targeted wire? Now this will be a Splice correct? And to splice is to "piggy-back" a signal to additional location yeah? Like to my O2 wire, I would essentially be creating a 3-way connection? And again, how do I seal it properly and "proffesionally" once I'm done?
Finally, my AFR gauge also has a 12v Dash lighting wire... where would that best be spliced into? I would love for it to dim with my dash dimmer. I've provided a link to the gauges instructions below for clarification and reference. http://www.autometer.com/download_instruction/1163.pdf

I will also be attaching a Autometer Dual gaugepod to my A-pillar and mine did not come with the "clips" I've read all about, I've gathered that they're crappy anyway. Thus, I'm relegated to using interior screws. Now, I've read that you drill holes into the a-column and I want to clarify that this means only drill into the trim and not into the metal frame correct? I.e. Will the trim provide sufficient stability?
And can this be done without removing the trim? I've read that to take it off is to basically break it.
And, the screw lengths would have to be pretty short yeah? Any recommended diameter and length? Also, a respective size for the drill bit I should use would be appreciated, I'm a noob to drilling also LOL.

Thanks for taking the time to read this! I know that if I'm provided with clear and descriptive answers this thread could be of great use to many of people!

RotaryRockStar
10th AE

 

Soldering and twisting of the wires together. Heat shrink tubing to cover it.

For joining two wires together I split the braid into two parts on each wire.

Then I put them together and twist one braid from each side together.

Then I twist the two joined ones into one big one.

I then fold it to one direction and solder it. Then I slide the shrink tube over the joint and seal it.


For teeing in.
I usually use a razorblade to cut 1/4inch of rubber shielding off to expose the wire.
I then split the braid and go diagnal to the wire and twist it.then bend it parallel and solder. Then electrical tape if I can't get a shrink tube on it.

 

I've heard crimp connections are actually more suitable for auto applictions than solder. The problem with telling people this is that when they first hear it, they think that their shitty hardware store crimp tool is good enough, myself included. You need to use a real crimp tool with built in mechanical advantage or a long *** handle. I've also found some really nice crimp connections at mcmaster.com that had low heat solder in them and heat shrink insulation. Basically you heat it with a heat gun and it solders/seals itself. Not necessary, but awesome.

BTW, those clips or plugs for the gauge pods aren't crap. You just have to know how to install them. You drill a clearance hole in the pod, then you drill the hole that they specify in the a-pillar plastic. Do not drill the metal. Take the plastic off carefully.

Those connectors are hard to find on mcmaster. Type in "butt splice" in the search to bring them up.

 

I do it like Digi7ech. except I solder them without folding.

 

I exclusively use a cross-link polyethylene insulated multistrand wire. This type of wire is labelled SXL, GXL, and TXL, and is designed to withstand exposure to the elements of an automotive environment without breaking down, including exposure to heat and oil. The insulation will not creep back when soldered. Its good stuff. Finding it at your local auto parts store might be tough, though.

Typically, you're going to find GPT wire at your parts store, which is alright stuff. Its a PVC insultaed multistrand automotive wire. Not rated for near the temperatures or resistance to petroleums, but for your situation, it should be more than adequate. #18 AWG should be sufficient to power your low-current gauges.

Never use solid wire.

I use crimps, and a slight amount of solder. How far you strip depends on the wire gauge, but its usually around 1/4" or so. For actual splicing, I cut the existing wire, strip it, and then insert the ends of the wire, as well as the new wire. I then crimp, and then apply a small amount of solder to the center of the crimp seam. I seal with heat shrink tubing, although electrical tape will also work. If you use heat shrink tubing, make sure to put it on your wires before making the crimp, and let the solder cool before trying to slide the tubing over the connection.
If you plan on doing a lot of automotive wiring, get a good set of crimps. I've got a few kicking around for different purposes, but my most used crimper is an MSD ratcheting Pro-Crimp with the interchangable dies.

I would cut around 4- 6" behind the plug. This will be a splice, yes. I prefer a butt splice, but you can also pigtail. Heat shrink tubing is the way to go for sealing, using a heat gun.
Dash lighting: Splice into the harness that connects to the dimmer siwtch.

There are a few ways to mount the gauge pod, but screwing is definitely the easiest. The trim can often be removed without breakage if you are careful, and the interior is in decent condition. Personally, I would use longer screws and go into the metal. Drill bit size depends on the screw size. The drill bit should be slightly smaller than the low valleys of the threads. Its best to simply look up a drill size chart on the web for your screw size.

 

+1 for screwing into the metal. i tried the plastic push pins before....
my friend walked up tp my car RIGHT after i installed the pod on the pilar. he has been interested in getting one himself..he say's "how sturdy are they?" as he grabs hold of it and it pulls right out. just imagine if i hit a bump in the road by accident??

 

That's because without the clearance hole, the tabs are pushed down by the small hoel in the pod before they go into the pillar plastic, which is what they anchor to. You put them in wrong.

 

yeah, they were in there correct. i just dont think they are durable enough to hold 2 gauges and the pod itself. maybe a single gauge pod.......

 

Thanks so much for the help guys, so far the work is going great I believe. My boost gauge should be arriving tomorrow so I'll be able to finish the job then. I wonder if any of you would be willing to post a few pics along with your descriptions. I probably will post some pics of what i've done, opening myself to critisism before I put it all back together and call it done.

Another question here for you guys... Looking at the FSM 86-88 chapter 15, page 15... shows a diagram of the cluster switches. Now the wire I'm wanting to splice into for the dimmer and dash lighting... would it be IL or E on the middle plug? or am I barking up the wrong tree?

thanks again!

 

Try the 86-88 WIRING DIAGRAMS, page 50-50. The connector with a reference designator CR-02. The wire is Red/Green and is the wire for ILLUMINATION.

See pages 50-51 and 50-52 in the same section for the location or that plug plus you might want to use connector FC-02 that is remote from the instrument cluster. It's above the drivers left leg. Or you might not want to use that.

Plenty of airplanes out there using a combinaton of crimp connectors and soldered connections. Their crimpers are a bit better than the ones at PePboys and cost more than my cars are worth.

 

Wow, Hailers you're such a bad *** at this stuff lol, you lost me a little bit. I think I found CR-02 but am having trouble seeing exactly which one it is. It looks like the top left harness, I think I found it... LOL I was going by page numbers that Adobe reader provides... You are referencing the ACTUAL page numbers in the FSM which is surely the smarter thing to do.. LOL, now that I'm up to speed....
The R/G in the manual, does it actually mean red/green? That'd be convenient... Ifso, I'm looking at the lower left corner yeah? So if I splice here, will my gauges dim with my cluster switch dimmer?
Sorry to be such a noob!

 

Well, I went ahead with it all. Low and behold it all works perfectly... Lol, I can't believe it..

To answer my own question... Yes, the gauges do dim if you splice into the wire that Hailers specified. CR-02 R/G

And for anyone elses reference I did indeed drill into the metal frame behind the trim to mount my autometer dual gauge pod. Everything lined up great and the whole pod is very solid.

Thank you all so much for your help. I surely couldn't have done it without you!

RotaryRockStar

 

I used the Wires that Illuminate the Ash tray bulb(or the ring around the Cigarette lighter,can't recall.It was one of those lights that work anyhow).I spliced into those and I get My Gauges to Illuminate and go Bright and Dim,from those wires.

 

yeah I believe that wire in the cigarette lighter is on the same circuit as the one I spliced into. Same CR-02 R/G