What is a good way to verify that the primary injectors are firing? I have fuel pressure to the primary fuel rail but I am not getting fuel to the engine.

 

reted posted a simple and crude way...

pull the rail and injectors but leave the fuel like connected.
zip tie the injectors in place into the rail.
have a friend turn the key and see if it sprays. it should be even sprays.

if one is more then the other or one works and the other does not... then its time to send them off or buy a new set.

 

dont know how else youd do it personally

 

That's a not a "crude" way, it's the correct way. Go read the FSM. That's more to test the spray pattern though. If you just want to know it they're firing, put the tip of a long screwdriver against the fuel rail and the handle against your ear. If they're firing you will clearly hear them clicking.

 

Disable both coil assy by pulling their small white plugs off.

Either pull the cas and leave the connector on it or get a spare cas and put the cas plug on IT.

Turn the key to ON.

Spin the cas's gear rapidly. YOu should hear the injectors clicking. You leave the coils disabled so you don't hear the spark of the plugs and mistake that for the injectors clicking.

Done.

 

ok... so while we are on the subject. How would some one test secondarys....

Im having fuel problems im not going to get into.

There should be a simple test to see if my lean under boost problems are due to the secondarys either clogged or the wiring is bad.

i have a e6k. But ems or not.... how would someone test them? cant sit under the hood and listen to them with a screw driver while boosting.

 

GO TO THE ECU AND PUT A METER ON THE PINS FOR EITHER SECONDARY. WATCH THE METER WHEN YOU GO INTO BOOST. PRIOR TO BOOST IT SHOULD READ BATTERY/ALT VOLTAGE. WHEN IT HITS BOOST, THE VOLTAGE SHOULD DROP CONSIDERABLY, SAY FROM 13VDC DOWN TO 7VDC IF YOUR REALLY ON IT.

oR IF YOUR SITTING IN YOUR DRIVEWAY, PULL THE VACUUM HOSE OFF THE BOOST SENSOR AND PLUG IT. nOW THE SECONDARYS SHOULD PULSE EACH TIME YOU REV OVER 3500 RPM. tHE VOLTAGE DROP WON'T BE AS GREAT AS THAT DESCRIBED ABOVE.

 

Or If You Don't Like That, You Can Buy A Digital Meter From Radio Shack That Shows Duty Cycle. Then Just Attach It To The Wire For A Given Secondary Injector And Drive The Car In Boot While Looking At The Duty Cycle On The Meter.

 

i had a thought. i could do the test the same as above. and plug the primairy injector clips on to the secondarys.

dont see why not.

 

This method will only verify the the injector is getting a signal to operate. If the injector is stuck shut , (possibly due to sitting for an extended time) this won't catch that.

You really need to verify that fuel is actually being delivered.

WitchHunter Performance
Fuel Injector Cleaning & Flow testing Service

 

wON'T WORK. IF YOU SWAP THE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY INJECTOR PLUGS THE CAR WILL START BUT WILL RUN REAL DOGGY. i WOULDN'T EVEN DRIVE MY CAR OUT OF THE DRIVEWAY WITH IT LIKE THAT.

I DID THIS AT THE ECU A WEEK OR TWO AGO IN ANSWER TO A POST ON THIS SITE. TRUST ME, I HAD TO STAY IN THE CAR AND PLAY WITH THE THROTTLE TO KEEP IT RUNNING AT IDLE. DON'T DO IT.

PERSONALY I'VE NEVER HAD REAL PROBLEMS WITH FUEL INJECTORS, ONLY IMAGINED ONES.


VERIFY THAT THE ECU IS PULSING A SIGNAL FOR THE INJECTORS BEFORE SENDING THEM OUT TO BE FIDDLED WITH.

 

i never said anything about the car running. i said do the test above... was talking about pulling the rail and injectors and see if they work. if they work then i can move on to other possible causes.

so im gonna pull the secondaries and zip tie them to the rail. put the primary injector clips on to them. turn the key and see if they spray.

 

Hey sleeper: I have an 88 T2 with the same problem, I even replaced injectors with GSL-SE ones (with resistors) but still have the same problem. I did almost everything you've done. Any good hints yet?

 

was my injectors. swapped in a new pair and it worked. yay im fast again.