How do YOU get spark plugs out?
#1
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How do YOU get spark plugs out?
S4 TII
Asking because ... well, I can't get mine out. Rather impossible to get a wrench to turn with so little room down there.
Any tips? (TMIC is off as well as some other crap that was in the way).
Also, which plug wires go where? I know T and L, but which housing is 1 and which is 2? Is the one closer to the transmission 1?
(Search apparently dosen't like the words, "How", "To", Get", and "Out")
Asking because ... well, I can't get mine out. Rather impossible to get a wrench to turn with so little room down there.
Any tips? (TMIC is off as well as some other crap that was in the way).
Also, which plug wires go where? I know T and L, but which housing is 1 and which is 2? Is the one closer to the transmission 1?
(Search apparently dosen't like the words, "How", "To", Get", and "Out")
#2
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I got the same motor, its not that bad for room. if your really cramped. i took an old bike frame. but it up so it works like an extension on ratchet for other hard to reach areas, and rusty bolts.
#3
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Try searching for "Sparkplug Removal" that might work. I just used a socket and wrench. This may sound obvious, but make sure the ratchet is set to apply force COUNTER ClOCKWISE.
#4
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just put the spark plug socket on the splug first, then slip the ratchet on, and uncrew them. These are EXTREMLY easy to take out. Id hate to see you work on some of the other vehicles I have had to work on.. you have to undo the motor mounts to even access the plugs...........
#5
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Use a breaker bar, an extension and spark plug socket to get it off... If you still cant break it loose, get a large wrench or hollow bar to fit over the end of the breaker bar for the extra torque...
Trailing is on top
Leading is on Bottom
1 is in front
2 is in back
atleast thats how I got mine set up...
Trailing is on top
Leading is on Bottom
1 is in front
2 is in back
atleast thats how I got mine set up...
#6
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i think my favorite car to do spark plugs on is my saab
they face right out at you, you undo 4 bolts to take the cover off, and just go to work
also helps on those semiannual headgasket repairs
they face right out at you, you undo 4 bolts to take the cover off, and just go to work
also helps on those semiannual headgasket repairs
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#8
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Yeah, just use a socket wrech with a spark plug socket on it. If needed use an extension, or a breaker bar with a swivel handle.
And I agree, these cars are pretty much the easiest I've seen to change the spark plugs on. For one, you can actually see the plugs unlike most cars that have them mounted in the heads. On my dads WRX you have to remove the whole airbox assembly for one bank, and the wiper fluid bottle and battery/battery box for the other bank just to get to the coil assembly which you remove to get to the plugs.
And I agree, these cars are pretty much the easiest I've seen to change the spark plugs on. For one, you can actually see the plugs unlike most cars that have them mounted in the heads. On my dads WRX you have to remove the whole airbox assembly for one bank, and the wiper fluid bottle and battery/battery box for the other bank just to get to the coil assembly which you remove to get to the plugs.
#9
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I had to lay on my belly and reach my arm up behind me along the firewall through this tiny opening from under the van to get to one of my moms spark plugs... She drives a Dodge minivan... It reminded me of the last time I pissed off a cop...
Last edited by C.A.R; 11-25-06 at 11:45 PM. Reason: "D" button barely works on my keyboard
#13
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I'm surprised no one else mentioned what staticguitar said. I had the same problem with the little lip for the first time ever last time I did plugs. I've had the car for a decade, and believe me I've changed many plugs in that time.
As for pain in the *** spark plugs, worst I remember off hand is a 96 Monte Carlo Z34. Took several hours as I had to remove the upper intake manifold which was held on by only a few bolts, but were randomly placed all over the place under different things, and behind other things. I'd smack anyone who claimed to be involved with designing that crap.
Thank God for Rx-7's, they are so easy to work on. Which is good, cause something is alway needing it
As for pain in the *** spark plugs, worst I remember off hand is a 96 Monte Carlo Z34. Took several hours as I had to remove the upper intake manifold which was held on by only a few bolts, but were randomly placed all over the place under different things, and behind other things. I'd smack anyone who claimed to be involved with designing that crap.
Thank God for Rx-7's, they are so easy to work on. Which is good, cause something is alway needing it
#14
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Harbor Freight has this real cool thing like a "speed ratchet" or something. Its just like a normal socket ratchet but it has a spinny thing on the bottom of the handle which would make it perfect for no muss fuss spark plug removal.
However its like $25 and I couldn't justify the purchase as the only use I can think of is for spark plugs on the FC.
KA24 and SR20 have pretty easy spark plug access. Just pull out the rubber wire connector thing and go to down with some extensions. Oh wait it is kind of a pain getting the spark plug socket back out though after you've tightened them down. Overall not so bad though.
However its like $25 and I couldn't justify the purchase as the only use I can think of is for spark plugs on the FC.
KA24 and SR20 have pretty easy spark plug access. Just pull out the rubber wire connector thing and go to down with some extensions. Oh wait it is kind of a pain getting the spark plug socket back out though after you've tightened them down. Overall not so bad though.
#15
rotorhead
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my s4 T2 has vac reduction and no A/C (got p/s though). I come in from the left side with a nice 3/8" drive flexhead ratchet and a sparkplug socket for the front ones, and then come in from the right side for the rears. You may have stock intercooler piping in the way though...
#16
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by Dr4900n
S4 TII
Asking because ... well, I can't get mine out. Rather impossible to get a wrench to turn with so little room down there.
Asking because ... well, I can't get mine out. Rather impossible to get a wrench to turn with so little room down there.
Also, which plug wires go where? I know T and L, but which housing is 1 and which is 2? Is the one closer to the transmission 1?
T1 = front trailing
#19
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I was using a box wrench
And my rachet sockets are all too shallow.
Looks like a trip to Canadian Tire to get a long *** mastercraft socket. What size? Googling the model numbers didn't return anything useful.
And it looks like my P/S pump isn't even connected (no belt ... it just isn't there!).
Rat's nest removal will take place later in the year after the car is exempt from emmisions and I get to drive it for a bit before I induce possible irepairible damage.
And my rachet sockets are all too shallow.
Looks like a trip to Canadian Tire to get a long *** mastercraft socket. What size? Googling the model numbers didn't return anything useful.
And it looks like my P/S pump isn't even connected (no belt ... it just isn't there!).
Rat's nest removal will take place later in the year after the car is exempt from emmisions and I get to drive it for a bit before I induce possible irepairible damage.
Last edited by Dr4900n; 11-26-06 at 01:05 PM.
#20
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by Dr4900n
I was using a box wrench
And my rachet sockets are all too shallow.
Looks like a trip to Canadian Tire to get a long *** mastercraft socket. What size? Googling the model numbers didn't return anything useful.
Looks like a trip to Canadian Tire to get a long *** mastercraft socket. What size? Googling the model numbers didn't return anything useful.
#23
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Yeah, this was simply a case of not having the right tool for the job. Thanks for your replies everyone.
Definately need to grab a pair of gloves from the dollar store.
Definately need to grab a pair of gloves from the dollar store.
#24
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I LOVE the oil filter location on my car. Its just right there sitting on top. Plus when you drain the oil it drains out of the filter too, so it doesn't drip everywhere. On my wifes 6 the oil filter is directly above the damn exhaust manifold. Not only to you risk burning yourself when you change the oil, but no matter how careful you are you will drip oil on the manifold since the filter is upside down and tilted slightly. Retarded.
The worst are some battery locations. On my dad's Sebring you had to remove a tire to get to it, and I think on some Buick you have to remove the whole rear seat bottom.
The worst are some battery locations. On my dad's Sebring you had to remove a tire to get to it, and I think on some Buick you have to remove the whole rear seat bottom.