RylAssassin

After i installed my ACV valve on my TII my car just died. After removing it the car went back to how it normally ran.
How can i check the ACV valve to see if its functioning without having it on the car?

Mephis

put a vaccume on the nipple and crank the vaccume and check to see if the stuff inside is moving, and also blow into the front side of it and see if its giving air out the side too.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Ignore Mephis. Totally wrong.

According to the Haynes:

1. Warm engine to operating temp
2. Allow to idle
3. Detach air silencer hose from ACV
4. Place finger over air output
5. Increase engine speed to 2500 RPM and verify air flows from 1500 to 2500 RPM.
6. Allow to idle
7. Detach ACV vacuum hose from relief solenoid (look it up )
8. Verify that air flows from ACV output
9. Reattach vacuum hose and air silencer hose
10. Detach rear air hose to cat and plug hole in manifold with finger.
11. Detach vacuum hose from switching solenoid
12. Verify air flows from manifold
13. Reattach cat hose

If any of these fail, replace ACV.

RylAssassin

Aaron i read the hanes, when i install my ACV valve my car wont run for more than a minute. So i guess that means that it failed step 1 and its no good?

HAILERS

1. Take the acv off the engine.

2. Put a vacuum hose on the bottom nipple of the acv(Relief diaphram). BLOW into the vac hose while watching inside the large nipple that goes to the silencer in the right fender. As you BLOW(PRESSURE), you should see a spring/diaphram move. If it moves...then that part is good. Also suck on the same vav hose. You should be able to hold a vacuum on this diaphram with your tongue. If it won't move when putting pressure on it or will not hold a vacuum when you suck on it.....it's a broken diaphram.
3. Now go to the nipple on top of the acv(Switching diaphram) that sticks straight up. This one works on vacuum unlike the one on the bottom that you just checked which works on PRESSURE. Suck on that top nipple. IF you view the acv from the engine side...you'll see a poppet valve moving inwards as you apply suction. If when you apply suction you keep sucking air and can't put a vacuum on it....then that diaphram is cooked/ stuffed/gone bye, bye.
5. There is one diaphram that can't be easily checked out. It's unfortunatly is the only part of the acv that can cause your car to idle poorly or not at all. It's what's called the ANTI-AFTERBURN part of the acv. If that diaphram is busted, it will leak unauthorized air into the intake port and screw your idle. Try this to check that part out. Get some starter fluid. Take the hose off that goes from the air filter to the airpump. While idling, spray into the hose towards the airpump. IF the idle changes radiaclly....then the things busted. CAn't be fixed.

HAILERS

I'd suggest putting the Haynes in the recycle bin and downloading the FREE online FSM and the FUEL SECTION of that fsm. There you will find the checkout of the acv. Look at the section of the fsm that deals with Turbo ACV not NON-Turbo ACV. They do not work the same. The relief valve on the turbo uses PRESSURE and on the n/a it uses VACUUM. But the Switching valve uses vacuum on both.

2. The acv should dump at 3800 rpm with everything connected up. It will dump at approx 1200 if you have taken the blue elec plug off the Relief solenoid. That's because that part of the acv works under pressure and the airpump does not have enough grunt to open the relief diaphram until approx 1200 when the relief solenoid is disconnected.
3. VERY IMPORTANT....did you install the half dollar size checkvalve that goes b/t the acv and the intake manifold.??????

HAILERS

By the way.....if you decide to discard you acv as bad, and the bottom diaphram will hold a vacuum and move when pressure is put on it....I might be willing to buy it from you for a fair price.

RylAssassin

Hey, Yeah as far as step 3. i did install that check valve when i put it on but still nothing.
Im going to try these things you mentioned later today and ill let you know how they went to see if its good or bad. Thanks again Hailers.

HAILERS

Final solution: Put a vac hose on the nipple that sticks straight up. See if it will hold a vacuum by sucking on it. Now do the same for the bottom nipple. If both hold a vacuum, then its the antiafterburn diapharam/valve in the acv that is bad. Don't dispair. Do the following.

Go to the auto store and buy a sheet of gasket paper. Then buy an exacto knilfe and a markalot. Take the acv off the car. Lay it on the gasket paper and draw its outline on the paper. Cut it out. Then drill the four holes for the attach bolts/studs. Now take the old gasket off the acv. Lay it on the new gasket outline. Draw the outline of the round hole and the large somewhat square hole. Drill but one more hole. That would be the tiny hole for the nippe that sticks straight out on the acv at the top of the acv. That hole feeds manifold air to the boost sensor.

What you now have is a gasket that does not have holes for the antiafterburn valve part of the acv. Good. So now there will be no way for airpump air to enter the intake manifold. Put the new gasket on with the acv. Make sure the checkvalve is also installed.

IF your idle problem was indeed related to the acv, the engine will idle much better now ........because there is no way the avc can now effect the idle.

P.S.....you'll never miss the anti afterburn part of the acv. Ever. Neither will this effect emissions.