I looked in the Book(haynes repair manual) and its a bit confusing. I understand some of it but not all. So what do i EXACTLY need to time it. and How do i do it? just dumb it down for me a bit . Thanks

 

Start at post #99 and read on.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/86-tii-swap-wont-start-but-really-wants-887302/page4/

 

the yellow dot for timing... mine wasnt there. Since its soo old it wore away. But when i had to put pulley on I made a mark. Now my friend said that the position of the "yellow dot" was when the key "slit in shaft" was dead center lined up with that little metal thingy. Is that the case? Sorry for my lack of tech terms...lol. I also dont remember 100% what he said

 

if you're looking at the pulley as it sits on the engine, there will be two timing marks. The one on the left is supposed to be the "yellow" one and the one on the right is the "red" one. I bought a new pulley from Mazda and the yellow paint started flaking off immediately.

Trying to make custom marks is just asking for trouble. The few people who do it successfully didn't need to make their own thread asking about it. Follow the factory service manual procedures for crank angle sensor installation and for checking timing.

 

hey guys does this looked timed


By zoneman2 at 2010-10-02


By zoneman2 at 2010-10-02

 

Ok i figure out where the notches were. i was off by about 90 degrees. But its all lined up, but when i started my car it idles kinda rough, But idk if that cause of my soild engine mounts. And it also only idles at 1,500 min. so idk if thats going to b a issue.

 

When you removed the top of the CAS were the internals lined up correctly?

Does the car idle at 1500 rpm just after starting the car or after the engine has been fully warmed up?

 

when its just started, but my car b4 used to idle at 1,500 all the time. Well its better then the 3k-3.5k it was doing when it wasnt aligned. Also it still wont start right after i shut it off. Its seems i have to keep adding oil to the LIM to get it to start up. or let it sit for a day or so.

 

You need to jumper the initial set connector and get the idle below 1000rpm when you do it. All accesories should be off.

 

But what does it idle at after the car is fully warmed up though?

 

not sure been too afraid to let the car run for more then 3 mins...lol. The last time i was going to let it run it had a rough idle. The exhaust was almost doing very fast putters. Ill try it again 2morrow and see what happens and update you. I'm just very...overly protective of my car i havent had it for like a year so i dont want it breaking any more.

 

ok i ran my car. when it started warming up it started bouncing on the rpms from peaking at 1,600 to dropping to 560 and it like sound like voom 1 2 3 4 5 vooom as it got warmer it changed 2 voom 1 2 voom. Also it was pissing coolant from under neath the car. at 1 point it it said the oil pressure in lbs was at 30 then like 30 secs b4 i shut it off or so it said it was at 0 unless i reved up the car some and it shot up to 30. Also my tps is off by 3-4%. and my timing was at a low -4 deg on L and .3 deg on T. On the high it was at 22.5 deg L 32 deg T. the car was running at 160 deg temp. The air flow was at 1.4-1.5 lbs/min, Map 7.2~11.2 inHq and injector P/W 3.59ms~4.6ms. This was the reading i got from pocket logger when it was idling from that 560-1600


Any ideas? i also have a OK vid if you'd like to see

 

the vroom, pause, vroom. Makes sense with your TPS being off. If you get it set right then that should go away.
As for the timing marks. Go to a hobby store and get some red paint and some yellow paint. Try to not get the acrylic as that doesn't hold quite as well. Get a small brush. Then paint the marks so they are the color they should be. I did this 4 years ago and they are still visible.

You need to get your idle set correctly or your timing won't be right.

Go to the FAQ and download the Factory service manual. The haynes manuals are nice for step by step, but the FSM has a lot more in depth info. and its free.
Good luck

 

ya timing marks arent a issue... there notched into my pulley. As for tps, i would make scene but y did it never do it b4? it was just outta the blue. What concerns me is the 0 oil pressure.

 

Disconnect the single wire plug to the oil sending unit and w/key to on ground out the wire in the connector and the oil pressure gauge needle should rise to the top of the range. Ground the wire just long enough to do this check then immediately unground. If the needle rises as it should then clean the contact within the single wire plug as well as possible, apply some dielectric grease and refasten it to the sender. Same thing happened to me and cleaning the contact as stated solved my issue.The connection is right near the oil filter and this usually creates numerous coatings of oil and assorted dirt on the connection providing for a poor contact that will result in your current problem. Chances are this will remedy your problem.

And the idle rpm needs to be below 1100 or so to properly set the timing. Check the voltage output of the Green/Red wire of the TPS after the car is fully warmed up and set it to 1 volt if it isn't there already.

 

ya well im scratching the project. I'm giving it to my buddy to fix. It is now leaking oil from exhaust seals n what not. Also when i rev it it spots my hand in oil so I'm throwing in the towel n giving it to him to fix.