How do i tighthen the rear hatch cable??
Thread Starter
FC3S Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 143
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From: So Cal
How do i tighthen the rear hatch cable??
This is my annoying problem, because I play sports after school, and i drive to the place. I have to use my key to unlock the hatch.
The latch that opens the rear hatch cable from the inside driver side will only open unlock the right side lock. It does not unlock the left lock!!! BUT, the latch unlock under the hatch on the rear near the tailights, will unlock both.
MY QUESTION!! HOW DO I GET TO TIGHTHEN THE CABLE?? OR WhAT DO I DO TO FIX IT??
THANKS GUYS!!
The latch that opens the rear hatch cable from the inside driver side will only open unlock the right side lock. It does not unlock the left lock!!! BUT, the latch unlock under the hatch on the rear near the tailights, will unlock both.
MY QUESTION!! HOW DO I GET TO TIGHTHEN THE CABLE?? OR WhAT DO I DO TO FIX IT??
THANKS GUYS!!
Yay! I can contribute!
I have a semi-solution for the fuel door:
I got some 6mm vaccum hose, cut a slit into it and slip it over the cable between the ball and the plate it presses to open the door. Trim it a little so the door will be held shut and open when you lift the lever. Zip tie to hold it into place. Its been a few months and I've had no problems since then.
I have a semi-solution for the fuel door:
I got some 6mm vaccum hose, cut a slit into it and slip it over the cable between the ball and the plate it presses to open the door. Trim it a little so the door will be held shut and open when you lift the lever. Zip tie to hold it into place. Its been a few months and I've had no problems since then.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 31
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From: Chicago
Hmmm... I was thinking a few momentary switches and 2 small actuators for the hatch & fuel door. But I may have to try the zip tie thing until I can find some nice space shuttle-like momentary toggle switches (also seen in Minis). I'm specifically looking for those so I can't accidentally hit them and have a door and a hatch fly open while driving.
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 529
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From: norcal
2nd gen right?? I had the same problem and i fixed it.
you're gonna have to take off the plastic cover where the latch is. Then there is the metal rod and a plastic piece that clamps onto it. Unclamp the plastic piece and just shift it over a little bit. then you have to put it back together and test it. I did it a lot and it was a pain in the ***...
you're gonna have to take off the plastic cover where the latch is. Then there is the metal rod and a plastic piece that clamps onto it. Unclamp the plastic piece and just shift it over a little bit. then you have to put it back together and test it. I did it a lot and it was a pain in the ***...
Thread Starter
FC3S Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
PROBLEM FIXED!!!!
This is what i did. According to the guy above ^. You are suppose to open your rear hatch. Then where the hatch locks are, unscrew the plastic cover, you will see a metal piece with the spring lock attached the the body of the car. *YOU MIGHT WANT TO HAVE A FRIEND TO HELP* Then unbolt the two bolts so that the lock can hang free, becareful not to pull out the lock completely because it is connected to wires.
Next you pull out the lock slightly and you will see that it is connected to a metal wire about 2cm wide, that is the cable that pulls the locks open. Next, you will see the white plastic piece that is binded to the metal wire cable. Although it doesnt look like you can seperate it but you can. Just look underneath the white plastic clamp, and you will see you can push the two sides and push it up through the metal lock. Once you have done that this is where your friend comes along. If you rotate the plastic clamp you will notice that it will not move along the threaded wire cable. Once you have rotated it, you can see there is a area where you can place a flathead into it and pry it open. Do so, and the clamp will open and should remain on the threaded wire. Pull it off the threaded wire cable and move it closer to the keyhole in the back depending on which side you are fixing. Be sure not to move it too close to the keyhhole or else the cable wire will not lock at all.
Next just clamp the white clamp together, push the white clamp through the metal lock as you did to take it out. Then match up the bolts and the bolt holes and bolt it back on. Now test! It should work, took me awhile to take out the white clamp but it should fix the problem. This will work for eitther side.
ARCHIVED THIS THREAD!!!
This is what i did. According to the guy above ^. You are suppose to open your rear hatch. Then where the hatch locks are, unscrew the plastic cover, you will see a metal piece with the spring lock attached the the body of the car. *YOU MIGHT WANT TO HAVE A FRIEND TO HELP* Then unbolt the two bolts so that the lock can hang free, becareful not to pull out the lock completely because it is connected to wires.
Next you pull out the lock slightly and you will see that it is connected to a metal wire about 2cm wide, that is the cable that pulls the locks open. Next, you will see the white plastic piece that is binded to the metal wire cable. Although it doesnt look like you can seperate it but you can. Just look underneath the white plastic clamp, and you will see you can push the two sides and push it up through the metal lock. Once you have done that this is where your friend comes along. If you rotate the plastic clamp you will notice that it will not move along the threaded wire cable. Once you have rotated it, you can see there is a area where you can place a flathead into it and pry it open. Do so, and the clamp will open and should remain on the threaded wire. Pull it off the threaded wire cable and move it closer to the keyhole in the back depending on which side you are fixing. Be sure not to move it too close to the keyhhole or else the cable wire will not lock at all.
Next just clamp the white clamp together, push the white clamp through the metal lock as you did to take it out. Then match up the bolts and the bolt holes and bolt it back on. Now test! It should work, took me awhile to take out the white clamp but it should fix the problem. This will work for eitther side.
ARCHIVED THIS THREAD!!!
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Australia
Originally Posted by 13bjuice
Same with my fuel door
There is a little springy bit of metal behind the flap, it was just a matter of bending that out so it pushes more against the door.
Pops out really well now...
I "lost" my emissions....
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,764
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From: lillington, nc
wow i cant believe this has 14 posts. that was the first thing i did to my rex. dunno it just seemed so obvious. but what ever. as for the gas tank latch, there should be a metal wire that runs up to the door on the inside. prolly hard to access, and a bolt holding it tight (like throddle cable) you can adjust it, or atleast thats how it is on most cars ive done it on