turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

well i recently got a 87' turbo II and the timing is out of wack. i cant set my timing bc i dont have the yellow mark on my pulley. it has about six indents but i dont know what to go off of.

InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

Get a haynes manual or check the factory service manual listed in the faq. You need to adjust the crank angle sensor to get the timing right. And try cleaning the pulley to find the yellow and white dots.

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

the previous owner painted the pulley so i have nothing to go off of.

7dust

iTrader: (14)

The notches are there so put a dot of touch up paint or even white-out or fingernail polish on the grooves.

Bama420

iTrader: (1)

For safe keeping in the mean time, set your CAS dead middle.

*edit* then fine tune it when you get the pulley dotted up.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I recall something about the bolts on the front pulley being used as a reference..I think RETED chimed in about it,,this was an old thread..don't know if it is much help to you..I would try searching through his Previous posts..It Has something to do wuth the way that the bolts were Configure on the Eshaft..From there you would make a mark on your pulley to get the Degree of timing..Not much to go on but maybe a BIT of help..

HAILERS

There's a CLAIM that if you draw a straight line thru two of the pulley bolt, TO the fixed pin on the front cover, THAT is TDC.

How you manage to do that with the engine in the car is a puzzler. But say you do. Then just measure accuratly the diameter of the pulley and mulitply by PI to find the circumfurence and then divide that figue by 360 (degrees) to find how far on the outer edge one degree is.

Then multiply that by five to find the distance for LEAD mark and then figure out the distance for the TRAIL mark.

So your saying "which of the two bolts on the pulley?". Well, you said you had multiple marks and I assume they are all fairly close together. So I"ll Assume that if you look at those marks and then the bolts you'l be able to figure out which of the two sets of bolts come close to aligning with those marks. Common sense thing.

Or you can remove your engine and remove the pan. SEt the engine on a FLAT surface. Remover the pulley hub so you can see the keyway for the woodruf key. Measure from the flat surface to the bottom of the E-Shaft. Write that figure down. Then measure the dia of the E-Shaft and divide by two.

Add that figure to the figure you got from measuring from the flat surface to the E-Shaft. That figure represents the halfway mark from the center of the E-Shaft to the flat surface. You want the MIDDLE of the keyway in the E-Shaft to be that distance from the flat surface the motoris sitting on.

Turn the E-Shaft til the keyway is to the right of the engine. Hold your 12inch scale near the keyway and turn the shaft in one direction then the other til the MIDDLE of the keyway is directly opposite the figure you determined above.

Now temp install the hub and then the pulley on the hub. Make a mark on the pulley just opposite the fixed pin. THAT IS TDC. Now do the diameter times PI divided by 360 to determine where five degrees ATDC and twenty degrees ATDC are on the pulley and mark them. Done.

The next method requires you to have the pulley in the TDC ballpark to work but should be accurate to a TEE.

OR, pull all the sparkplugs out. Insert a plastic tube the size of the sparkplug bottom hole into the hole. No leakage around the tube allowed. Using a squirt can fill the hose up with light oil til the oil comes out the top hole, then install a sparkplug in that hole.

The tube should be only filled part way at this point and the clear tubing lets you see where the oil level is. Now rock the E-Shaft very slightly back and forth while watching the oil level. The level will go up/down as you do this. When you determine where on the tube the oil hits it's highest level stop rocking the E-Shaft.

Mark the pulley just oppoisite the fixed pointer. THAT IS TDC. Then figure out the distance from there to the lead and trail marks. To me that should be a very accurate method to find TDC accuratly.

If you do it that way, you have a potential mess on your hands. IF a cat is installed it's going to get a mouthfull of oil on startup EVEN if you did remove the oil tube and let the oil drain out of the sparkplug holes. Gonna smoke pretty good for a few minutes.

Then there are other ways........but this post is waaaaay toooooo long and I doubt anyone can follow the words above. Being descriptive ain't one of my strong points.

IF the thread starter got to this point.....I'd bet you have a RACING BEAT PULLEY on there and they can tell you which mark is TDC.

HAILERS

If it has four marks on it, and it's diameter is less than 4.51 inches, then it might be a RacingBeat underdrive pulley with marks at the following places:

10 ATDC , TDC , 10 BTDC , 20 BTDC

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

i went and counted them and it has six so i have no clue what to do

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

ok i got the car running last night with restabbing the cas then i try to start it up this morning and it doenst i dont know what is wrong

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

surefire way to get tdc is...

pull both trailing spark plugs. put an apex seal in the middle of the rear rotor spark plug hole and mark the pully, then put an apex seal in the center of the front sparkplug hole and mark. then mark the dead center between those 2 measurements. you will probably already have a mark there but that is tdc and stock is 5* atdc