If you are going to torch something torch that brake rotor and get it off the hub so you can get in there and get that bolt out your going to keep screwing with it until it is so rounded off you can't get it out without getting violent with it .

 

meh, I've taken off plenty of these rear hub thingies, and I've never removed the rotor to do so. on the other hand, I've never gotten in my car any other way besides opening the door.

okay, so, it may make it easier to pull off the rotor, but IMHO, its really not neccesary if you're just removeing the old ones, its a bit more work (especially if they're rusted) to pull off the caliper/rotor, than to just leave them on, and maybe have a *slightly* tougher time. if you're replacing those bushings, then definetly neccesary. but I wouldn't worry about pulling the rotors off the old 4lug ones, if you'll be replacing them with the 5 lug ones anyway.

okay, this is stupid.

 

Please calm down........


second the screws are striped...

 

yeah i dont care if the 4 lug CRAP is destroyed...

 

Life would be easier for him if he removes the caliper and rotor.

 

Man, I CRINGE everytime I hear crappy advice like some of the things posted above.

You don't need to remove the brake rotor, but it sure does make life easier. If the bolts in the rotor are stripped, use a dremel tool (Or air grinder) to remove the head of the bolt. Then use some 12mm bolts in the holes that are threaded into the rotor to push the rotor away from the hub.

As for the DTSS bolt? There are two forces at work here. #1: The rusted threads of the bolt. #2: The DTSS bushing is seized to the shaft of the bolt. If you can't break it loose with a 1/2" breaker bar, then heat is going to be your friend . Cook the DTSS bushing with a torch until it starts smoking. Then cook it some more... Once the rubber DTSS bushing releases, then the bolt will come out.

 

i did mine without removing the rotor... one side got a 4-5 foot breaker bar and the other got a MAC impact wrench... turn ALL the way up.