How do i remove this peice?
#1
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How do i remove this peice?
Hey guys I want to remove the peice of metal where the speakers are bolted onto and its right above the shocks. you have to cut a hole in it to put strut bars on but i want to get rid of it. how should i go about taking it off?
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ah well since i dont know anyone with a plasma cutter i just went and got a screwdriver a hammer and a hacksaw.
so far i got one side off without any problems.
so far i got one side off without any problems.
#7
Drill out the factory spot welds. Its alot cleaner looking than hacking it off with a saw or plasma cutter. It may take a little longer but its worth it to do it right. If you drill to far you can easily do a little body work on it or spot weld the holes up and grind it flat. At which point it will need priming and painting. But if you want to get it off quick just use the plasma cutter. I haven't removed mine yet since I'm going to mount the rear strut bar brace to the unused factory seat belt mounts. I'll mount my harness to the strut bar. When I add the roll cage I'll remove them at that time.
Last edited by FPrep2ndGenRX7; 09-17-02 at 10:16 AM.
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#8
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Air chisel or hammer and chisel is the way to go. Just go at the spot welds at a very flat angle (so you don't go through the panel) This will allow you to remove the entire piece without putting any holes in the wheel well sheet metal or burning your interior out from sparks.
I lost about 3lbs a piece from removing these. (also did it for strut bar installation)
I lost about 3lbs a piece from removing these. (also did it for strut bar installation)
Last edited by Jimmy325i; 09-17-02 at 10:38 AM.
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I did the removal yesterday. Used tin snips and a metal chisel to get it out. Just takes some time and a little grinding for clean up. I had the backglass and seats out so there was alot of room to work though.
-Morbius
-Morbius
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Originally posted by Silkworm
Actually, a spot weld cutter is the way to go It's like 10 bucks at the auto paint/body shop supply store
Makes quick work of those pieces.
PaulC
Actually, a spot weld cutter is the way to go It's like 10 bucks at the auto paint/body shop supply store
Makes quick work of those pieces.
PaulC
with a chisel hammer and hacksaw it took me about 2 hours a peice... i was kinda goofin off too.
i thought the strut bar mounts onto the same holes as the upper strut mounts? did you have that custom made?
#12
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Kinda... I made it myself.
The metal is actually two layers thick in that spot so the re-enforcement plate under it is actually well anchored. The bar is preloaded as well because of the ability to tension it while tightening the mounts.
The metal is actually two layers thick in that spot so the re-enforcement plate under it is actually well anchored. The bar is preloaded as well because of the ability to tension it while tightening the mounts.
#14
I think I like Jimmy325i version better than mine. I've got an air chisel, some bits and a air compressor. I might have to try that this weekend.
Jimmy - Nice rear strut bar.
Jimmy - Nice rear strut bar.
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Fprep, Thanks. I was using a new roll of wire in my welder that I couldn't get to penetrate for **** untill I turned the feed rate to warp speed, so the welds on the mounts look like *** but they're plenty strong. Like my welding teacher taught us... Gorrilla Ugly = unbreakable.
For a proper sound stage you really don't need rear speakers. I don't do quality stereos in cars anymore,(out grew my income for that hobby) and I have to use an ear bud to hear my 2-way as it is. (gotta love 2.5" open exhaust!)
For a proper sound stage you really don't need rear speakers. I don't do quality stereos in cars anymore,(out grew my income for that hobby) and I have to use an ear bud to hear my 2-way as it is. (gotta love 2.5" open exhaust!)
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