NCross

iTrader: (18)

Problem 1 : After running perfect for about 3 months with no problems the car will not start.

...fuel pump makes noise
...fuel pressure is good
...battery is brand new
...multiple relays click when I turn the key to START
...all other circuits work great
...no blown fuses
...sand papered a bunch of ground points (including alternator/starter)

what else could there be? relay? Would the rest of the circuits work with a bad ECU?

I took the intake elbow off and looked around inside the throttle body the other day (thinking about the modification), but that's all I've done to it in the past 3 months.

Problem 2 : while looking for possible causes and ground points i noticed that the wires going to a plug on top of the exhaust manifold were melted and had burnt apart from the sensor. there are 2 of these sensors. I'm guessing theyre exhaust temperature sensors for the warning cluster? Could this cause the starter to not fire up?

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

The sensor (there should only be 1?) on the exhaust manifold is the O2 sensor. I guess its possible that the wires could be creating a short that screws with the ECU? I dunno, I'm just throwing something out there. Just unplug those wires from the harness and see what happens.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

to test the starter (out of the car) you can use a jumper box or a battery out of a car. positive on the left terminal, ground on the right. bring another hot wire to the top clip and it should shoot out and spin VERY fast, like 2krpm.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

ill post a picture tonight. i need to charge the batteries.

basically, there are 2 plugs that screw into a spot behind the air pump, around the exhaust heat shield. not O2 sensors. the look like oil drain plugs with a spring and a bullet looking thing in the middle with a rubber cap on the tip. i took it to o'reilleys (which i call "oh really's?") because they are stupid as hell... but they were the closest. they said they had no clue what it was and said "maybe its your crank sensor" to which i said "uhh...noo...". they said that would cost ******* $450 and i left. then i started thinking maybe it was a sensor for the exhaust overheat system on the warning cluster...

Jpk3200

I don't know if there are any differences, but here is some info from the 89-91 FSM.

Hope this helps.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

might come in handy^^
anyway, issue #2...

stevej88na

(misread)

Mechanic

quick check, get someone to hold key in crank position, and tap it with a hammer a few times.

HAILERS

The Split air solenoid and the Port air solenoid on the ACV and the ACV itself have NOTHING to do with starting the car or keeping it running. As for the wires, seperate them from each other and cover with shrink tubing to prevnet them from grounding out and blowing one of the two EGI fuse in the engine bay.

You NEED to take a look at the FUEL section of the free and online FSM to figure things out.

As for starting make sure the Engine fuse and the two EGI fuses are intact. See the FAQ at the beginning of this forum for the location of all three fuses.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

After letting the car sit over night I went outside today and tried to crank it to see what happens it finally started on the first try. I let it run for about 5 minutes then I shut it off. I started it up again a few minutes later and let it run for maybe 1 minute then I left with my friend to go to the junk yard to pull out a KA for his s13 roller. I got back around 6pm and tried to start it and........nothing.....

The voltage gauge reads between 10 and 12 volts. I just bought a new battery 2 months ago, don't tell me the POS isn't holding charge???

Like I said, the the fuses all check out. Why do I need to look at the fuel section when my problem isnt fuel related?

NCross

iTrader: (18)

I got the bitch to start again finally. Took the starter to Autozone and it tested out good. I just went home and sandpapered the connectors and slapped it back on. I also connected the wire I found dangling freely. Knock sensor?