how can you tell if ..........
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 214
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From: tarzana, Ca.
how can you tell if ..........
hey guys,
how can you tell if one of your rotors goes out? i see these ads about one rotor going out,usually the front one. sometimes the rear. my question is.... how do you know when this happens? do you hear it,feel it,smell it? i have a 91 vert (180,000 mi)and it pulls like crap. im assuming its the clutch because it revs high to get it moving. can anyone tell me how i can check to see if have have a bad rotor.
how can you tell if one of your rotors goes out? i see these ads about one rotor going out,usually the front one. sometimes the rear. my question is.... how do you know when this happens? do you hear it,feel it,smell it? i have a 91 vert (180,000 mi)and it pulls like crap. im assuming its the clutch because it revs high to get it moving. can anyone tell me how i can check to see if have have a bad rotor.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Uhm, compression check?
I learned that during my time at NASA...
I can tell a blown apex engine a mile away...turns over in a slower duh-duh-duh pattern, galloping shaky starting and hard starting, sounds like an old lawnmower when started, lots of vibration when running below 3krpm, refusal to run at low rpms or idle (below 1500), and total lack of power meaning you have to burn the hell outta the clutch to make the car move.
I learned that during my time at NASA...
I can tell a blown apex engine a mile away...turns over in a slower duh-duh-duh pattern, galloping shaky starting and hard starting, sounds like an old lawnmower when started, lots of vibration when running below 3krpm, refusal to run at low rpms or idle (below 1500), and total lack of power meaning you have to burn the hell outta the clutch to make the car move.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
90 psi is bare minimum for a decent, reliable running engine.Theyl still run well below that, but begin to lose power, flood, hard start, etc.
For a healthy engine, you want to see 100psi or more.
For a healthy engine, you want to see 100psi or more.
Anything b'n 90-100 psi Is a sign of a tired Motor. But It should be expected on account of the Motor having a 180,000 mile history. 120 Is a practically brand new, 110-115 Is Ideal or expected from a healthy Motor.
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Originally posted by Kim
How come these engines flood due to low compression???
It just doesnt make sense to me.
How come these engines flood due to low compression???
It just doesnt make sense to me.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Flooding and low compression go hand in hand. My theory is as follows:
As compression gets lower, the rotary requires more time to build its initial compression for startup (i.e. revolutions). Most of the time this doesnt cause a problem, but the lower it drops, the slower compression builds, the more prone they are to flood. This is because your computer still thinks it has a factory fresh engine, and injects fuel on the first rotation/face. But the engine hasn't reached full compression yet, and it may not be enough to create combustion just then. IF the mixture doesnt combust, then you have instant flooding.
Some or most people go around talking about injectors causing flooding. Injectors can cause flooding, but usually aren't the primary problem. Perhaps injectors AND low compression are the ultimate cause of flooding. All I know is that I can take a motor that floods regularly and rebuild it. IT'll still flood during breakin, again a direct sign of low compression. As the engine breaks in and compression comes up, it will quit flooding and never do it again, even on the same old injectors (in 99% of cases). On rare occasions an injector can be so bad it will cause a very tight motor to flood.
As compression gets lower, the rotary requires more time to build its initial compression for startup (i.e. revolutions). Most of the time this doesnt cause a problem, but the lower it drops, the slower compression builds, the more prone they are to flood. This is because your computer still thinks it has a factory fresh engine, and injects fuel on the first rotation/face. But the engine hasn't reached full compression yet, and it may not be enough to create combustion just then. IF the mixture doesnt combust, then you have instant flooding.
Some or most people go around talking about injectors causing flooding. Injectors can cause flooding, but usually aren't the primary problem. Perhaps injectors AND low compression are the ultimate cause of flooding. All I know is that I can take a motor that floods regularly and rebuild it. IT'll still flood during breakin, again a direct sign of low compression. As the engine breaks in and compression comes up, it will quit flooding and never do it again, even on the same old injectors (in 99% of cases). On rare occasions an injector can be so bad it will cause a very tight motor to flood.
