GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

Ive checked every possible thing! and i still cant get my starter to engage
I took the battery harness apart, everything checks for continuity, no corrision,

I hooked the cables back up using this link:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/fd-alt-new-wiring-install-s4-480242/

New Alternator, Battery,Starter, and Ignition switch.

All fuses are good, Getting power to lights and horn, and getting a small click when turning the key.

I have the 12v spade hooked up, the positive battery terminal is hooked up to the open stud on the starter, and the negative is going to the long bolt that holds the starter in place.

I believe it has to do with the wiring between the ignition switch and (i dont know where it goes) either the wire that goes to the battery harness or the one to the 12v spade

Since i cant read wiring diagrams, Is there anyway i can run a wire straight from the ignition switch wire labeled ST (i presume it means starter) to which ever one it goes to?(the ones stated above?)

I put the jumper wires on the neutral switch and clutch switch

Thanks,
Sean

HHTurboVert

If you're desperate you can just tap a wire in at the ignition switch and run it directly to the spade connector. Disconnect the old spade connector and tape it up and out of the way so it doesn't damage anything else. I had to do this for a while until I found the culprit about a month later.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

what gauge wire did you use and did you tap into the single black with red stripe wire labled as ST?

HAILERS

IF you go to your starter, and jumper a wire b/t the BLADE on the starter to the post that has the large wire coming from the battery, does not the starter turn over? Should. IF it does not, the starter is kaput.

Like A has the large cable from the battery positive cable, B just gets the cable from the internals of the starter and C is the trigger from the ignition key.

Make the shank of a screwdriver contact the A and C at the same time and the starter turns over. CAr in neutral. No key required. Ground from the battery neg cable to the long bolt on the starter.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

check to s if your anti theft module is blown. mine blew and gave me a headache. now i have a wire that runs directly from the ignition switch to the spade connector. there are multiple places where the wire disconnects and re connects. check to see if you have 12V as the wire when you try and turn the ignition switch. if not, then travel up the wire to where it has a connector underneath the coil packs near the firewall. take the coil packs out and check for continuity there when trying to crank. if none, then check under the dash where it yet again reaches another connector. check continuity there. if you do have continuity, then jumper the gap in between the two connectors with a fresh new wire and connectors, and plug it back up. if you dont have continuity, then your in luck, you'll have to install a push button start! yay!

im talking about the wire that connects to the spade connectors. its like a 12 gauge wire that's black and red i believe. it connects to the spade connector. check that one.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

get a multi meter and test for voltage at the starter when cranking.

If no voltage just work your way back.

But first try what hailers suggested and if you have voltage at the starter the starter should crank. if it doesn't crank then your starter is bad, if it does than your starter relay is bad or sticking.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

well as i said in the first post( If you Read the post ), brand new starter. I made my own starter connection using conectors and some wire like you said TurboVert and it worked perfectly so im gonna get the same gauge wire as the stock wiring and run it past the fire wall.

(i was just messing around, i appreciate all the help youve givin me hailers!!)

Thanks,
Sean

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

do you have the Harness Grounded on the Engine?..there is a ground on the Harness,that uses the Longest bolt of the starter..if that is Not Connected,you get NO starter.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

does anyone read before they post

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

I see you still have the same problem as me!

I'm still stuck in the same boat as you are!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Hailers posted that because you can't assume that rebuilt starters are going to work. You still need to do a thorough diagnostic procedure.

HAILERS

That's about the gist of it. If the starter spins when you do that, then I'd be a true believer the starter is good or not.

IF it does spin when you do that, then your problem is a lack of a trigger signal from the ignition. That signal runs from the ignition switch to the clutch pedal switch to the Starter Cut Relay (if you have theft protection) then to the starter solenoids small blade connector.

If you had Theft Protection you'd remove the relay and then jumper b/t the black/white and black/green wire and then try starting again. OR just remove the plugs from the Theft Unit and try again. One or the other.

IF you had a meter you'd pull the plug off the Starter Cut Relay and see if the black/green has 12vdc when the key is put to START and clutch depressed. No voltage means you'd take a look at the clutch switch and work your way back to the ignition.

If you didn't have theft protection you'd find the BLUE jumper plug beneath the Trail coil area and pull it off. Then look for voltage on the black/green wire as mentioned above and work your way back towards the ignition switch.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

well it is just the wiring in the harness because i just ran a wire straight to the starter spade from the ignition switch and problem solved. not to mention the problems started after i switched the harnesses, but thanks for all the help everyone

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

well that fixed the starter problem but now im dont think im getting fuel and my warning lights are all on wtf? i dont think this harness i installed is any good... i also installed an working fd fuel pump when i did my turbo swap, i did the deflooding procedure but im not smelling anygas from the exhaust pipes after or when im just trying to start it.

any ideas?
Sean

HAILERS

Not really. If the Starter Cut Relay was pulled in by the Theft Unit, the starter would not have worked. You have bypassed the Start Cut Relay and the Clutch Interlock Switch when you ran the new wire from the ignition to the starter solenoid.

Now that you've run a seperate wire and bypassed the stock wiring, the ECU will not see that the START signal from starting the engine. That act means the AFM is used for fuel delivery instead of the built in Start Fuel Map in the ECU. Which in turn means not enough fuel for cold engine starts. Works better that way for HOT starting though.

Also, if you bypassed the original wiring, then the coil in the Circuit Opening Relay that is powered by the factory start circuit, will not be energized and therefore the relay won't be pulled in which in turn means the fuel pump won't run. BUT, if you crank enough the vane in the afm will move aft and make the gnd to the Circuit Opening Relays OTHER coil and the pump will run (still won't have enough fuel delivered by the afm though, for cold engine starts).

You can prove this one way or the other. Just jumper that Fuel pump Check connector and then try to start. The pump should run if the key is to ON or better. But this won't resolve the problem with the ECU not seeing the START signal from the start wiring circuit, so the engine will be more difficult to start on a cold engine. Once hot, the engine will probably start right well.

A lot depends on how much of the original START wiring you bypassed. Say you spliced the original wire that was on the starter solenoid (small blade wire) to the new wire you ran from the ignition, then the signal to the ECU will be normal and the power to the Circuit Opening Relay will be normal again (pump runs when key HELD to Start).

Them thar be my thoughts on this here subject. See local FSM for the start circuit and what I was referring to in the above.

By the way, if when you jumper the fuel pump check connector and turn the key to ON, and the fuel pump does not run, then check the ENGINE fuse in the interior to be good/bad.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

well were is the theft unit system? did those come standard in the 86? and those diagrams are for a non-turbo

HAILERS

Turbo start works similar to non turbo. I'll post a jpg someday.

Do you have Theft? Or don't know? I sure don't know. I've never seen the unit, but I think it's located with the front right speaker just below the glove box. If someone KNOWS for sure, then maybe they'll say so.

HAILERS

In the first jpg see at the bottom/left where it says TO EMISSION CONTROL UNIT???? That is the wire that lets the ECU know the engine is being started as long as the key is held to START ...and the original wiring is involved.

See in the second jpg, at the top, more or less middle, it says FROM STARTER CUT RELAY???? Follow that wire to the left to and you see it connects to the CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY. It connects to one of two coils that can pull the relay in and make the pump work. That wire only gets power WHEN the key is HELD to Start and the original wiring is in place.

You can make this happen IF you just connect the original wire that went to the starters small blade, TO the NEW wire you ran.

IF you don't know if you have Theft, then undo the three nuts that hold the Trail coil assy on, and lift it up and to the side. Do you see a BRIGHT BLUE elect plug? IF you do, you don't have theft protection.

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

I had my lines crossed!! Holy crap! That's all that's was FUXERING UP!

I feel special!

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

Ok hailers what do i do? i looked under the dash and found a connector that is the interlock switch (same connector and color wires as circled), it is not pluged into anything! where is it suposed to connect? Is this the problem?

HAILERS

If it is the clutch interlock switch, you can just jumper the two wires in the plug together and then start the engine. You'd be bypassing the interlock switch if you do that.

You wouldn't have to push the clutch in if that is done. OR you could just reconnect the plug to the switch.

Is the plug already with a jumper wire b/t the Black/Red and Black/Green???

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

there is no jumper and i cant seem to find the male connector for it. do you know were the switch is located? id rather plug it in to that but i guess i dont need to.

HAILERS

There are two switches on the clutch pedal. The lower one is for cruise and ????signal to ECU. The TOP one is the interlock switch. It has a pigtail with an electrical plug on it to match the harness plug.

Maybe it's missing? Broke and missing? Who knows. There's sort of a picture of it in the ENGINE ELECTRICAL section, sub section STARTER.

It's a curiosity how this engine ever started if the interlock switch was not connected. Maybe a work around of some sort? Who knows. I don't.

I'd temp jumper that plug and see if the thing starts or not.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

I just did a harness swap because i never got to it when i did the turbo engine swap so it was running (kinda) off the N/A Harness, i didnt know about this switch when i pluged the new harness up. is there one on an N/A harness?

im gonna try to start it now.

Edit: the starter turns over now so thats one problem solved, now to get it to start

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

ive been looking over and checking the locations of all the connectors on the Ba-2 page. i think ive found the problem to fuel. what i think to be the fuelpump relay/fuelpump resistor connector is unpluged. i cant be sure with only three wire colors. (the picture cuts it off at the bottom), is it located under the AFM along with the plugs that go to the lights?

If it is indeed the fuelpump relay/fuelpump resistor connector where does it plug into?

Thanks,
Sean

Update: It is the fuelpump relay/fuelpump resistor so where does it plug into?