How can I wire the starter outside the main harness?
06-07-08, 10:14 AM
#26
HAILERS
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Not all early RX have/had a interlock switch. I've a 87 turbo without it and in past threads OTHERS have stated the same. Then again, I've another 87 that has it.
On RX built before mid 1986, there is a resistor package under the afm/filter meant for the fuel injectors. Early RX came with low impedence injectors of 2-3 ohms and in that circuit is a 6ohm resistor for each injector which brings the resistance up to eight ohms or so. Its proper name is the SOLENOID RESISTOR PACKAGE and will NOT be seen in the online series four FSM at all.
Search for SOLENOID RESISTOR and use the name HAILERS and you'll find numerous threads about the solenoid resistor. It's aluminum covered, has a large round plug with five wires in the plug.
There are several harness. The one that has the fuel injectors etc is the EM harness. It connects to the ECU AND the FRONT harness. The FRONT harness runs from the passengers side over to the drivers side, exits into the engine bay area and actually runs way up where the assortment of relays are and , if memory serves over to the right headlight area. It gets around.
So you have a na car with a turbo engine and just what is the deal with the harnesses???? Used the na on the turbo engine for a while and now have put?????????what harnesses in place.
It sounds like you've a later than mid 1987 EM harness on the engine NOW, which will NOT connect in any way to the solenoid resistor package, BECAUSE later RX ussed high impedence fuel injectors which did not need the resistors in the solenoid resistor package.
You can tell the interlock switches harness is part of the FRONT harness by looking at the wire colors. Like see the BR and the (F) next to it. The (F) stands for .........right.
See the alternator wire BW in the TURBO schematic? See the BW wire with the (E) next to it? The (E) stands for ENGINE harness. The Engine harness runs on the left side of the engine bay and feeds the alternator on a Turbo car and the cables to the battery and other stuff.
Now look at the NON TURBO and the alternator. See the BW wire with the (EM) next to it? EM stands for Emissions harness. That is the harness that attaches to the engine and the fuel injectors etc.
So a turbo's alternator wires are in the engine harness and the alternator wires in the non turbo are in the Emissions harness.
I converted a 1987, an early 1987 non turbo to turbo engine. I used the non turbo harnesses through out and have not looked back since. It's the easiest way to do it. Use a Turbo EM harness on the motor and now you created WORK. Unneccesary (sp) work. But if it's just a hobby and you wanna do different. have at it.
On RX built before mid 1986, there is a resistor package under the afm/filter meant for the fuel injectors. Early RX came with low impedence injectors of 2-3 ohms and in that circuit is a 6ohm resistor for each injector which brings the resistance up to eight ohms or so. Its proper name is the SOLENOID RESISTOR PACKAGE and will NOT be seen in the online series four FSM at all.
Search for SOLENOID RESISTOR and use the name HAILERS and you'll find numerous threads about the solenoid resistor. It's aluminum covered, has a large round plug with five wires in the plug.
There are several harness. The one that has the fuel injectors etc is the EM harness. It connects to the ECU AND the FRONT harness. The FRONT harness runs from the passengers side over to the drivers side, exits into the engine bay area and actually runs way up where the assortment of relays are and , if memory serves over to the right headlight area. It gets around.
So you have a na car with a turbo engine and just what is the deal with the harnesses???? Used the na on the turbo engine for a while and now have put?????????what harnesses in place.
It sounds like you've a later than mid 1987 EM harness on the engine NOW, which will NOT connect in any way to the solenoid resistor package, BECAUSE later RX ussed high impedence fuel injectors which did not need the resistors in the solenoid resistor package.
You can tell the interlock switches harness is part of the FRONT harness by looking at the wire colors. Like see the BR and the (F) next to it. The (F) stands for .........right.
See the alternator wire BW in the TURBO schematic? See the BW wire with the (E) next to it? The (E) stands for ENGINE harness. The Engine harness runs on the left side of the engine bay and feeds the alternator on a Turbo car and the cables to the battery and other stuff.
Now look at the NON TURBO and the alternator. See the BW wire with the (EM) next to it? EM stands for Emissions harness. That is the harness that attaches to the engine and the fuel injectors etc.
So a turbo's alternator wires are in the engine harness and the alternator wires in the non turbo are in the Emissions harness.
I converted a 1987, an early 1987 non turbo to turbo engine. I used the non turbo harnesses through out and have not looked back since. It's the easiest way to do it. Use a Turbo EM harness on the motor and now you created WORK. Unneccesary (sp) work. But if it's just a hobby and you wanna do different. have at it.
Last edited by HAILERS; 06-07-08 at 10:32 AM.
06-07-08, 12:03 PM
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For the record i have an 88 TII and have bought and installed what i have been told to be all 88 TII harnesses, F, EM, & Battery.
I have confirmed It to be the Fuel Pump Relay & Resistor connector. (i checked the 88 FSM)
This one in Fact: http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/88_manual.htm
I dont have a resistor pack because my injectors are high impedence, i know this for sure. (i went through figuring that out when i bought a EM harness that had the plug for the resistor, i had to buy another and switch it out to the one i have now which is the 88 TII one)
Can I just jumper the connector like so?
I have confirmed It to be the Fuel Pump Relay & Resistor connector. (i checked the 88 FSM)
This one in Fact: http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/88_manual.htm
I dont have a resistor pack because my injectors are high impedence, i know this for sure. (i went through figuring that out when i bought a EM harness that had the plug for the resistor, i had to buy another and switch it out to the one i have now which is the 88 TII one)
Can I just jumper the connector like so?
Last edited by GOT-RTRY; 06-07-08 at 12:14 PM.
06-07-08, 05:45 PM
#29
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Your public profile said a 1986 non turbo, hence the confusion and waster time posting pictures and dialogue.
The Fuel Pump Resistor Relay plugs into the FRONT harness. That's why when you look at each wire coming out of it, the wire will have (F) next to the color.
The Fuel PUmp REsistor Relay is located just in FRONT of the afm/filter assy. IF this is a Turbo car, then the plug will be there. It's bolted to the bulkhead that the headlights assy are attached to.
The Fuel Pump Resistor Relay plugs into the FRONT harness. That's why when you look at each wire coming out of it, the wire will have (F) next to the color.
The Fuel PUmp REsistor Relay is located just in FRONT of the afm/filter assy. IF this is a Turbo car, then the plug will be there. It's bolted to the bulkhead that the headlights assy are attached to.
06-07-08, 05:55 PM
#30
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o **** i forgot about that my bad
, my 86 N/A seals blew so i did a turbo swap so no i dont have the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay. im gonna update that now im sorry i wasted your time
You wouldent have an extra would you?
, my 86 N/A seals blew so i did a turbo swap so no i dont have the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay. im gonna update that now im sorry i wasted your timeYou wouldent have an extra would you?
Last edited by GOT-RTRY; 06-07-08 at 06:00 PM.
06-07-08, 06:00 PM
#31
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Something is WRONG. If it was a Turbo car in the first place, then the plug should have been there in front of the afm/filter area. IF the new?? Front harness you installed is off a Turbo car, then the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay should be laying about in front of the afm/air filter area. A part of the FRONT harness.
Maybe I should go out and look at my 87TurbII, but I don't think my memory is that bad, so I won't. It's there in front of the afm/airfilter area, a part of the Front harness.
Look at that schematic I posted with the Fuel Pump Relay/Resistor. The plug has a ref designator which is Ba-22 and can be seen at the bottom of that schematic. It's a round plug with six sockets.
Maybe I should go out and look at my 87TurbII, but I don't think my memory is that bad, so I won't. It's there in front of the afm/airfilter area, a part of the Front harness.
Look at that schematic I posted with the Fuel Pump Relay/Resistor. The plug has a ref designator which is Ba-22 and can be seen at the bottom of that schematic. It's a round plug with six sockets.
06-07-08, 06:10 PM
#32
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When I bought The Car Its stock set up was Non Turbo but the 1986 Non Turbo Engine seals blew as i figured it would (it had 175000+ miles on it).
I then purchased a whole new set up, a JSPEC 1988 Turbo 2. i put in good condish 1988 T2 harnesses along with it and riped the old ones out.
Im guessing the guy i bought the chassis harness from forgot to include the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay
does that clear it up i should of said this at the beginning of the tread my fault
-Sean Bledsoe
I then purchased a whole new set up, a JSPEC 1988 Turbo 2. i put in good condish 1988 T2 harnesses along with it and riped the old ones out.
Im guessing the guy i bought the chassis harness from forgot to include the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay
does that clear it up i should of said this at the beginning of the tread my fault
-Sean Bledsoe
06-07-08, 06:37 PM
#33
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My bad. You have the connector on the front harness but have no Fuel Pump Resistor Relay.
This can be over come by jumpering a couple of wires in the plug on the front harness. Then you will have power to the fuel pump.
Just find that round plug and jumper a wire from the LR (Blue/Red) to EITHER of the L (Blue) wires.
This can be over come by jumpering a couple of wires in the plug on the front harness. Then you will have power to the fuel pump.
Just find that round plug and jumper a wire from the LR (Blue/Red) to EITHER of the L (Blue) wires.
06-07-08, 08:28 PM
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well i wired it like i showed in the above pic and i get fuel... and a leak lol wtf
(i know its not because of the wiring im just venting on the fact that my life sucks)
i need a new piece of hose and i should be ok im gonna jumper the check connector to prime the fuel system before putting the top back on that way i can check for the leak.
-Sean Bledsoe
(i know its not because of the wiring im just venting on the fact that my life sucks)
i need a new piece of hose and i should be ok im gonna jumper the check connector to prime the fuel system before putting the top back on that way i can check for the leak.
-Sean Bledsoe
06-07-08, 11:17 PM
#35
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You need to undo part of your wiring that you showed in green in your picture.
On the right side of the picture you have jumpered the BW (12VDC) to the GR wire.
The GR wire is a ground ouput FROM the ECU pin 3D TO the coil of the relay in the Fuel Pump Resistor/relay. Not a desirable thing to do. I'd undo that. You don't want to leave it like that.
The other two green jumpers are ok. But you only needed one or the other.
On the right side of the picture you have jumpered the BW (12VDC) to the GR wire.
The GR wire is a ground ouput FROM the ECU pin 3D TO the coil of the relay in the Fuel Pump Resistor/relay. Not a desirable thing to do. I'd undo that. You don't want to leave it like that.
The other two green jumpers are ok. But you only needed one or the other.
06-16-08, 04:35 PM
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well i have one more problem hailers i bought what i was told to be a fuel pump relay & resistor but the plugs are different is it the right part? here are some pics:
The Connector:
The Fuel Pump Resistor & Relay:
What Do I Do?
-Sean Bledsoe
is it the right part? here are some pics:The Connector:
The Fuel Pump Resistor & Relay:
What Do I Do?
-Sean Bledsoe
06-16-08, 09:22 PM
#38
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An evil person sold you a series five outfit for your series four car.
Series four uses a round plug like the one on your Front harness. Series five use just what you now suspect, a rectangular plug.
Have fun mating those two plugs.
Look at the series four wiring diagrams which show the plug shape/configuration, then go look at the series five wiring diagrams and look at the same items. Round vs rectangular.
Series four uses a round plug like the one on your Front harness. Series five use just what you now suspect, a rectangular plug.
Have fun mating those two plugs.
Look at the series four wiring diagrams which show the plug shape/configuration, then go look at the series five wiring diagrams and look at the same items. Round vs rectangular.
06-16-08, 09:35 PM
#39
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I kinda looked at the series five and series four FSM's.
IF you find the locking tab on the series four plug (round plug) and offer up the series five plugs locking tab( rectangular) to it, I find that the wires that are opposite each other in one plug vs the other, are the wires that need to mate to each other. That make any sense??????
How you make them mate is your choice. Plugs won't mate but somehow you've got to make the wires that are opposite each other, plug together.
In the mean time, leave one of the L/R connected to one of the L wires in the series four Front harness round plug. You'll have full voltage all the time. What your missing is the voltage drop to approx 9vdc at idle and non load conditons. Can't hurt the engine the way it's jumpered now.
Let's see if I can do better...............grab the round plug on the harness. Find its locking tab. Now grab the device you bought and find ITS locking tab. Offer them up to each other as if the plugs would actually mate. Now hold them there. What you have is this. The wires in one plug are now opposite the wires in the other plug that NEED to connect to each other. You have to overcome the fact the plugs won't mate.
IF you find the locking tab on the series four plug (round plug) and offer up the series five plugs locking tab( rectangular) to it, I find that the wires that are opposite each other in one plug vs the other, are the wires that need to mate to each other. That make any sense??????
How you make them mate is your choice. Plugs won't mate but somehow you've got to make the wires that are opposite each other, plug together.
In the mean time, leave one of the L/R connected to one of the L wires in the series four Front harness round plug. You'll have full voltage all the time. What your missing is the voltage drop to approx 9vdc at idle and non load conditons. Can't hurt the engine the way it's jumpered now.
Let's see if I can do better...............grab the round plug on the harness. Find its locking tab. Now grab the device you bought and find ITS locking tab. Offer them up to each other as if the plugs would actually mate. Now hold them there. What you have is this. The wires in one plug are now opposite the wires in the other plug that NEED to connect to each other. You have to overcome the fact the plugs won't mate.
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