Most simple methods:

1. Check for unpainted black side molding.
2. Tail lights are NOT round.

 

VIN number in carfax will tell you that for no charge.

 

Another simple way is to read the manufacturer stickers on the driver's side door area. There is a "date of manufacture" as well as other things such as the weight of the vehicle, etc.

Keep in mind that some cars, w/ a date of manufacturer closer to the end of the year (for example, 12/02) are considered as 2003 cars.

 

Look at your VIN number. Something like Jm1FC3314H0572086

See the H letter????? That is what model year it is.

H for 1987
G for 1986
J for 1988

The digit just after the letter, is a code for what plant it was built in. If it's a 0, that means it was built in Hiroshima ( gee whiz, I thouht if an atomic bomb was dropped on a city it wasn't able to support life for ten million billion years, hmmmm).

The last six digits are the production serial number.

The first three digits/letters is the world manufacturer identifier. All Mazda passenger cars under US and Canadian specs were identified BY JM1

The next two letters are car line code. FC meaning RX series.

The next two letters are body style code. 33 means cou0pe. 35 means you have a car like Icemark.

The next digit, is a miscellaneous identification code. 1equals RE 13B without turbo.........2 equals RE 13B Turbo

The digit just before the letter(model year code, remember?) is a *check digit*, that is used by the law dogs to see if you are a cheater and have stolen this car and reidentified it. Top secret number.You don't have a need to know type number.

The above info was stolen from http://www.mazdaformance.com/rx7parts.htm

So if you have any questions about the words above, take a look at that site to quench your thirst for knowledge.

 

tail lights, ya

 

look for non-electric seatbelts, and hard plastice radio surround or the pie shaped openings around the water temp, oil press. etc. gauges on the gauge cluster, rather than the round ones.

all that other stuff can be changed easily.

 

*****look for non-electric seatbelts, and hard plastice radio surround or the pie shaped openings around the water temp, oil press. etc. gauges on the gauge cluster, rather than the round ones.*******

All that can be change easier.

 

Except for North American made Mazda's which will have either a 1YV (USA built) or 4YV (Canadian Built) or 1FV or 1F1 or 1F2 (again USA built) or 4F3 (Canadian Built) or 4F2 (Canadian Built)

 

Don't play Mazda Trivia with this guy *ICEMARK*......you'll lose.

On the other hand if you play *who's got the turbo to n/a driveshaft from Mazdatrix for 242 big ones* I win as of yesterday.

 

An 'F' instead of an 'M' ? Does that mean its technically a Ford? I'm aware that they own us, but still...

 

Betcha the rear end didn't cost that much

 

the intake manifold is also very different looking