How to build a High revving 13B ???
Hi,
I'm going to try to build a high revving NA 13B this winter. But i have no real idea on how to go about doing this. My plans are for something that revs more then 10,000 but still in the power range. If you know any one who has or knows how to do this could help me out that would be great.
I'm going to try to build a high revving NA 13B this winter. But i have no real idea on how to go about doing this. My plans are for something that revs more then 10,000 but still in the power range. If you know any one who has or knows how to do this could help me out that would be great.
If you're doing it simply for high RPM's sake, that's fine. But feeding that beast and where the power will peak will not make the car very streetable. In your search, watch for the pro's and con's of where you're headed.
Mazdatrix has some info on high RPM mods. Good luck and keep us posted on progress.
Mazdatrix has some info on high RPM mods. Good luck and keep us posted on progress.
call up racingbeat and say "I'll have one of everything" that should give you a good start...
I'm assuming this is an NA? why not just go turbo? the power will be way more usable and it'll be faster..
I'm assuming this is an NA? why not just go turbo? the power will be way more usable and it'll be faster..
My friend Drew(used to be a mod here) built a full n/a high revving motor. I think it spun to 11k and made power all the way to it. I forgot what all was done but you will at least need whats been said(Light weight rotors, flywheel/clutch) needs to be balanced perfect. You will need a good port job to keep air flowing well at that high of revs.
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thanks guys i will look in to all you advice.
but on a side note (beside BuujinBejiita's friend Drew) is there any other ppl on the forum that have a high revving or have build one out there?
other question where is the best place to get a rotor balenced?
but on a side note (beside BuujinBejiita's friend Drew) is there any other ppl on the forum that have a high revving or have build one out there?
other question where is the best place to get a rotor balenced?
Last edited by jaberle; Sep 23, 2009 at 11:01 PM.
only 10,000 RPM what happened to 8,500 RPM? not good enough
Hi, You state that you want to run at 10,000RPM or just up to 10,000 RPM Question A how much money have you budgeted for your engine B who will build the engine (yourself or a pro)C what will the engine be used for Race or street what car is it going in, and what is its (weight)the engine you want could be built for some where between 15 to 20,000 USD depending on application and internals How about a" rollerized " E- shaft that you can spin to 11,000 RPM .... I am working on one now................
Hi, You state that you want to run at 10,000RPM or just up to 10,000 RPM Question A how much money have you budgeted for your engine B who will build the engine (yourself or a pro)C what will the engine be used for Race or street what car is it going in, and what is its (weight)the engine you want could be built for some where between 15 to 20,000 USD depending on application and internals How about a" rollerized " E- shaft that you can spin to 11,000 RPM .... I am working on one now................
so how do you put the rollerized e shaft in a rotory?
and do have a project page?
and where do you get the rollers?
The entire rotating assembly needs to be balanced. Any of the major rotary engine race shops (Racing Beat, Downing Atlanta, Mandeville Auto Tech, etc.) will balance your engine when they build it.
Like rotarygod said, you are going to need an aftermarket transmission to experience any benefit of revving that high, which will likely cost half as much again as the engine build. Plus you will need a scattershield/ballistic blanket for safety purposes. Search for pictures of exploded clutches and flywheels if you don't understand why...
Like rotarygod was saying about gear ratios, not just strength, find a gear ratio program and plug in the ratios and power band.
You will find that at that high rpm range the rpm drop between gears is huge. I'd bet that from 2nd to 3rd you will fall out of the power band of an engine that makes peak power at 10K rpm.
Its good to build them to handle the rpm's but intake systems and air velocities make the thing fun to drive.
You will find that at that high rpm range the rpm drop between gears is huge. I'd bet that from 2nd to 3rd you will fall out of the power band of an engine that makes peak power at 10K rpm.
Its good to build them to handle the rpm's but intake systems and air velocities make the thing fun to drive.
Try an AWR Miata tranny.....only $2K USD, I believe. Anything else is a waste of time. You will also need to change your intake manifold and exhaust to support the higher powerband. A 4.77 or a 5.12 rear diff will help immensly, if you can find one. The total bill so far here is at least $5K USD, and we haven't even gotten to the engine yet!
To install the rollers have to have the e shaft ground to size then machine the gears and rotors for fit...If you want the full meal deal rollers on every thing.. clean up the oil system ,and if you want it to rock and roll big time, clearance the complete eng as well as blue print (spec) all internals, Rotors , etc.`as well as a good balance of all recipricating parts , improve the waterpump as well as the rad , fuel, and exaust system vent the hood if you can , as well as far as the bearings choice (parts) and pieces go that for now is under wraps/Top Secret/locked in the vault but if it works real nice and I torture test It and it stands up during next summers race testing I'll build you one
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