How To: 929 Brake Master Cylinder and Booster Install
#51
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (25)
When looking at prospective donors there are a few things to bear in mind:
-Because our cast alloy pedals are much thicker than the normal steel assembly, you must use the stock RX clevis. The RX7 booster>pedal rod is 10mm, many of the options you'll see are 8mm. IIRC, the Subie rods are 10mm, Nissans and Hondas are 8mm.
If you go with a booster that has a 8mm rod, the fix is easy- a 8mm Helicoil will thread right into the RX 10mm clevis, effectively sleeving it down to the correct size.
Takes 30 seconds.
-Most options will have a different port layout on the MC. Just assume you'll either be replacing brake lines or bending the stock ones to suit.
-Pay attention to the location of the vacuum port on the booster, especially if you want to keep the stock hose/hardline.
-Because our cast alloy pedals are much thicker than the normal steel assembly, you must use the stock RX clevis. The RX7 booster>pedal rod is 10mm, many of the options you'll see are 8mm. IIRC, the Subie rods are 10mm, Nissans and Hondas are 8mm.
If you go with a booster that has a 8mm rod, the fix is easy- a 8mm Helicoil will thread right into the RX 10mm clevis, effectively sleeving it down to the correct size.
Takes 30 seconds.
-Most options will have a different port layout on the MC. Just assume you'll either be replacing brake lines or bending the stock ones to suit.
-Pay attention to the location of the vacuum port on the booster, especially if you want to keep the stock hose/hardline.
#54
Senior Member
Has anyone tried the Non-ABS 929 mc? Fitment compared to ABS unit?
#55
NA-BOOSTIN
#56
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it appears to be the same part either way. i suppose the only real difference is that the non ABS has a Y fitting on the front circuit, to give the master 3 outputs, instead of 2 for an ABS car, but the master doesn't come with the Y part...
#57
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
#58
NA-BOOSTIN
I remember you making some parts for the fc awhile back . Do you still ?
#63
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
Please excuse the oil mist everywhere.
You will need to run a splitter block for the front brake lines (FC MC had 3 ports, Subaru has 2). I am using one found on a Mitsubishi Montero. With a little bit of bending, the LF brake line bolts right up to the splitter block on the front port.
All that you will need to fabricate are a line from the splitter to the prop valve and a line from the rear MC port to the prop valve.
Note, I am using the Legacy MC, booster, and a 929 prop valve, which all together may fit slightly more/less favorably than what your combo is.
You will need to run a splitter block for the front brake lines (FC MC had 3 ports, Subaru has 2). I am using one found on a Mitsubishi Montero. With a little bit of bending, the LF brake line bolts right up to the splitter block on the front port.
All that you will need to fabricate are a line from the splitter to the prop valve and a line from the rear MC port to the prop valve.
Note, I am using the Legacy MC, booster, and a 929 prop valve, which all together may fit slightly more/less favorably than what your combo is.
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Frisky Arab
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08-18-15 05:30 PM