How To: 929 Brake Master Cylinder and Booster Install
When looking at prospective donors there are a few things to bear in mind:
-Because our cast alloy pedals are much thicker than the normal steel assembly, you must use the stock RX clevis. The RX7 booster>pedal rod is 10mm, many of the options you'll see are 8mm. IIRC, the Subie rods are 10mm, Nissans and Hondas are 8mm.
If you go with a booster that has a 8mm rod, the fix is easy- a 8mm Helicoil will thread right into the RX 10mm clevis, effectively sleeving it down to the correct size.
Takes 30 seconds.
-Most options will have a different port layout on the MC. Just assume you'll either be replacing brake lines or bending the stock ones to suit.
-Pay attention to the location of the vacuum port on the booster, especially if you want to keep the stock hose/hardline.
-Because our cast alloy pedals are much thicker than the normal steel assembly, you must use the stock RX clevis. The RX7 booster>pedal rod is 10mm, many of the options you'll see are 8mm. IIRC, the Subie rods are 10mm, Nissans and Hondas are 8mm.
If you go with a booster that has a 8mm rod, the fix is easy- a 8mm Helicoil will thread right into the RX 10mm clevis, effectively sleeving it down to the correct size.
Takes 30 seconds.
-Most options will have a different port layout on the MC. Just assume you'll either be replacing brake lines or bending the stock ones to suit.
-Pay attention to the location of the vacuum port on the booster, especially if you want to keep the stock hose/hardline.
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it appears to be the same part either way. i suppose the only real difference is that the non ABS has a Y fitting on the front circuit, to give the master 3 outputs, instead of 2 for an ABS car, but the master doesn't come with the Y part...
I remember you making some parts for the fc awhile back . Do you still ?
I still do have some in stock (FMIC throttle body elbows) and i can now make those brackets if needed, but there was not much market for anything lately....and if it was, china was providing....
Please excuse the oil mist everywhere.
You will need to run a splitter block for the front brake lines (FC MC had 3 ports, Subaru has 2). I am using one found on a Mitsubishi Montero. With a little bit of bending, the LF brake line bolts right up to the splitter block on the front port.

All that you will need to fabricate are a line from the splitter to the prop valve and a line from the rear MC port to the prop valve.

Note, I am using the Legacy MC, booster, and a 929 prop valve, which all together may fit slightly more/less favorably than what your combo is.
You will need to run a splitter block for the front brake lines (FC MC had 3 ports, Subaru has 2). I am using one found on a Mitsubishi Montero. With a little bit of bending, the LF brake line bolts right up to the splitter block on the front port.

All that you will need to fabricate are a line from the splitter to the prop valve and a line from the rear MC port to the prop valve.

Note, I am using the Legacy MC, booster, and a 929 prop valve, which all together may fit slightly more/less favorably than what your combo is.
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Frisky Arab
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Aug 18, 2015 05:30 PM








