How To: 929 Brake Master Cylinder and Booster Install
10-30-09, 10:22 PM
#26
400WHP or bust
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After doing some research, I found out that the 1995-1997 Mazda/Ford B2300-B4000/Ranger/Explorer have a 1 1/16" master, now if I wasn't laid off until Feb, I would try it myself... But can't pull that off just yet.
10-31-09, 07:22 PM
#29
The Legacy is also a 4-port unit and uses the Mazda friendly 10 x 1.0 threading. This means you can use inexpensive, generic parts store hardline to fab up new lines if necessary.
BTW...Honda ABS units have several 10 x 1.0 allen head plugs that are perfect for neatly capping unused MC ports.
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Akaviri (10-20-20)
02-02-10, 07:16 PM
#32
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I think if I have to pay "full price" for one I'd go with the 929 booster, given the relative size/capability of everything.
03-27-10, 04:29 PM
#37
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You can install it either before or after the proportining valve, it really doesn't matter. Just split the single port for the front line so that one line goes through the valve and each caliper has a line going to it. Figure out where you want to put the tee in the car, then decide on how to run the lines from there. I'd put it in between the MC and the proportioning valve though.
03-27-10, 07:54 PM
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10-08-13, 07:56 AM
#49
When looking at prospective donors there are a few things to bear in mind:
-Because our cast alloy pedals are much thicker than the normal steel assembly, you must use the stock RX clevis. The RX7 booster>pedal rod is 10mm, many of the options you'll see are 8mm. IIRC, the Subie rods are 10mm, Nissans and Hondas are 8mm.
If you go with a booster that has a 8mm rod, the fix is easy- a 8mm Helicoil will thread right into the RX 10mm clevis, effectively sleeving it down to the correct size.
Takes 30 seconds.
-Most options will have a different port layout on the MC. Just assume you'll either be replacing brake lines or bending the stock ones to suit.
-Pay attention to the location of the vacuum port on the booster, especially if you want to keep the stock hose/hardline.
-Because our cast alloy pedals are much thicker than the normal steel assembly, you must use the stock RX clevis. The RX7 booster>pedal rod is 10mm, many of the options you'll see are 8mm. IIRC, the Subie rods are 10mm, Nissans and Hondas are 8mm.
If you go with a booster that has a 8mm rod, the fix is easy- a 8mm Helicoil will thread right into the RX 10mm clevis, effectively sleeving it down to the correct size.
Takes 30 seconds.
-Most options will have a different port layout on the MC. Just assume you'll either be replacing brake lines or bending the stock ones to suit.
-Pay attention to the location of the vacuum port on the booster, especially if you want to keep the stock hose/hardline.
10-08-13, 01:54 PM
#50
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A late model 626 also has the double diaphragm booster (what I'm running). It does seem to he heavy on the assist, but thats mostly noticeable when completley stopped. From speed the pedal is very firm.