After doing some research, I found out that the 1995-1997 Mazda/Ford B2300-B4000/Ranger/Explorer have a 1 1/16" master, now if I wasn't laid off until Feb, I would try it myself... But can't pull that off just yet.

 

So does the Subaru Legacy.

 

the one i was gonna try was a lincoln town car. it has 4 ports, so all you would have to do is plug one port. also 1 1/16th"

 

What thread pitch does the Lincoln use?
The Legacy is also a 4-port unit and uses the Mazda friendly 10 x 1.0 threading. This means you can use inexpensive, generic parts store hardline to fab up new lines if necessary.

BTW...Honda ABS units have several 10 x 1.0 allen head plugs that are perfect for neatly capping unused MC ports.

 

Any idea if it will fit on S5 TII brake booster?

I am running 929 MC now, but might need go bigger with install of 4 piston calipers in rear....

 

Do you know what year Subaru Legacy MC will work?

 

Wanted to add that the 626 studs are long enough. I got a hold of a 626 setup for a song so I gave it a go. Only downside I see is that the booster is smaller than the 929. I haven't done the math, but I think the boost might be similar to stock. The MC is 15/16, and it uses standard inverted flare fittings; no banjos.

I think if I have to pay "full price" for one I'd go with the 929 booster, given the relative size/capability of everything.

 

Anyone running 1 1/16" on S5 TII or FD brake booster?

I have 1" now and might need bigger with 4 pots in the rear...

Subaru Legacy MBC's are for S4 boosters, right?

 

The Legacy MC will fit on any booster with the proper stud spacing...S4,S5, FD, Acura, etc.
I've assembled a 1 1/16" Legacy MC to an Infinity booster and it's next in line to try on our swap car if the 1" MC doesn't work out.

 

so wait did u use the 929 brake booster too

 

Trying to do this swap put I have no idea where to put the tee. this is my first major project that Im doing along with a 5 lug swap.

Could someone draw in where the tee would be? PLEASE.

 

You can install it either before or after the proportining valve, it really doesn't matter. Just split the single port for the front line so that one line goes through the valve and each caliper has a line going to it. Figure out where you want to put the tee in the car, then decide on how to run the lines from there. I'd put it in between the MC and the proportioning valve though.

 

Like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4718827...05723/sizes/l/

Sorry I need a visual

 

I split mine after the prop valve...


No particular reason other than it made the tubing a little neater.

 

That would work.

 

clokker

Where did u get that fitting? the two way split thing.

 

Off a Mitsubishi Montero.

If you want to go another route, many Toyotas use a three way tee that fits on the MC mounting stud.

 

Time to ressurect the thread a bit....

clokker, did you tried any stock combo which is 1 1/16" ?
I mean, complete setup of one car which has this size.....Subaru? Or something else?

 

Bump again! Have done a few 929 swaps, but a complete lack of 929s in the yards lately makes me worry... any other confirmed alternatives?

 

All sorts.
! 1/16" from Subaru and 1'" from either Nissan or Honda have all worked on my car.

 

Sweet! Do you run their corresponding boosters too or are you mating them up to something else?

 

Nope, I use paired booster/MCs because then I don't have to mess with the pushrod adjustment.

 

Ahh ok gotcha. Sounds like I need to start doing some r & d of my own then.

 

When looking at prospective donors there are a few things to bear in mind:

-Because our cast alloy pedals are much thicker than the normal steel assembly, you must use the stock RX clevis. The RX7 booster>pedal rod is 10mm, many of the options you'll see are 8mm. IIRC, the Subie rods are 10mm, Nissans and Hondas are 8mm.
If you go with a booster that has a 8mm rod, the fix is easy- a 8mm Helicoil will thread right into the RX 10mm clevis, effectively sleeving it down to the correct size.
Takes 30 seconds.

-Most options will have a different port layout on the MC. Just assume you'll either be replacing brake lines or bending the stock ones to suit.

-Pay attention to the location of the vacuum port on the booster, especially if you want to keep the stock hose/hardline.

 

A late model 626 also has the double diaphragm booster (what I'm running). It does seem to he heavy on the assist, but thats mostly noticeable when completley stopped. From speed the pedal is very firm.