Hey, i was working on the water pump fixing a small leak and took the hot wire on top of the alt off and just let it hang (it wasnt touching anything, had the rubber boot on it) and i leave it like that and i put the water pump back on and just leave it be for the night to let the RTV dry. Well i get up this morning and it wouldnt start, and i look at the wire and its touching the manifold!!!!! HOLY ****! its been grounded out probably all night, the batt is still good, and the wire still has power (something i dont understand) but now the car wont start. Im getting power to the coil, and im about to go check my injectors to see if they are firing, thanks

 

Check the main 80A fuse.

 

check all the fuses

 

The sparks flying sure scared the heck out of me too.

 

BUC strikes again!!! J/K


There is a reason why the first step in ALMOST EVERY procedure READS: "DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY"

 

Yea, but I sometimes avoid It so I don't have to go through the trouble of resetting my Clock, channels to radio etc.

 

Thats why you unhook the NEGATIVE terminal!

 

Holy ****, i didnt think anyone in Windsor SC could read....

 

Thanks for that valueable peice of advice.

 

Thanks for that valuable piece of advice.

 

There's always one smart **** with out an answer and I'm another! I assume that you've checked the fuses. both under the bonnet(hood) an under the dash. If they are bown nothing will happen> check for shorts (grounding) in the wiring loom. If all is ok then check the EGI unit signals. I had a S2 2.3 EGI which occasionally cut out . It turned out to be a short where the wiring loom ran over the engine block - but it didn't blow fuses! Even when it caght fire?

Before fitting new fuses check the wiring. I didn't and paid the hard way! Lots of smoke and lots of fried circuits. I was lucky. I had a spare EGI unit and various sensors!

 

Here is another helpfill electrical hint: You can buy a small battery pack that plugs into your cigerrette lighter to keep power to all the clocks, radio presets etc., while major electrical work is being accomplished.

I have noticed a certain lack of respect for automtive electrical systems in my years of Professional mechanical work and my time as an enthusiast. (I used to be one of the worst offenders, ask SCRX7 about my primitive stereo wiring jobs in the eatly 80's!, but I digress).

We already know are cars had a marginal electrical system (S4's) from the factory and age, poor maintenance and hack jobs are taking their toll. Treat your car to an elctrical system check-up and refurb and it will reward you many times over. I just refurbed a 88 TII Engine Harness, The condition of the alternator wiring was Horrific!!!. @ feet back from the ALT. Plug the wire was corroded green on ALL strands!. And we wonder why are alts barely support the factory electrical load, let alonr the aftermarket goodies everyone has installed. Take the time to clean and reconnect all your grounds, covering them with Di-Electric grease. If you use butt-coo\nnectors at least use ones with built-in heat shrink, use a GOOD set of Double -Crimp Ratcheting crimpers. Autozone has them for a measly 20 bux.

 

Hey what guage wire did you use for the refurbishing of htat harness? Just curious, you have a write up of what you did? i was going to redo mine as well and remove all the unnecesary goods on it. Thanks

 

I replaced bad wiring with the same gage wiring. Most of it is 18 gage. I used MS 22759/16 (tefzel insulation) Mil-Spec Wire. This stuff is unbelievable when you compare it to the stuff from the parts stores and the stock harness

 

Did the same thing a while ago installing a stereo, had the hot line to the battery hit ground and zap, car wont start. Turns out it zapped my starter and basically drained my battery.

Might wanna get your starter checked out.

- Ryan

 

Here is a shot of a reterminated power lead connection to the main harness. Final convulouted wrap has not been installed yet. Orange wrap is 900 Degree F Silicone Mil-Spec Aviation Wire Wrap

 

Here is a pic of a double-crimped butt connector with built-in heat shrink. Also the wire label is under clear heat shrink. The wire is Mil-Spec Tefzel Avionics wire

 

Where are you getting all this "Mil-Spec" type stuff? That butt connector with the shrink wrap is ingenious!