I've always heard about the hot start problems with second gens. Now that I have my first second gen it would appear that I have the problem.
The car will start fine when cold but if I drive it turn it off for a short period of time and try to restart it it is flooded. I pull the engine fuse turn it over for a minute and put the fuse back and it starts right up.
Unfortunately I never payed any attention to the fix because I never had the problem. Could someone be kind enough to enlighten me on the proper repair.
The car is an 88 T2.

Thank you,
Mike

 

It could be leaky injectors. Pull them out and send them to RC Engineering. You can send them over-nite so you can have them back within a couple of days.
It could also be bad compression. Check your compression to see if the motor is blown.
I installed a fuel cut switch in line with my fuel pump. Even though I have a blown motor, it will start even when it's hot.
I would recommend doing that regardless of weather it is blown or not. It saves the hassle of hopping out of your car every time it floods.
Another thing that helped my car was doing the throttle body mod on it. That gets rid of all the junk that Mazda put on there.

 

Err - isn't the 1st gen carberated (sp??)? No fuel injectors there.

For the fc3s, hot starts are the result of bleading fuel injectors once the car has been turned off. Causes a very rich condition when starting.

 

The 84-85 gsl-se has a FI 13b.

Thanks for the info. If leaky injectors are my problem can this be fixed or do I need new ones? Are they just dirty?

Thanks,
Mike

 

Some say the "professional" cleaning where you send the fuel injectors off helps.

The 89-92's had a "force more air in during startup" OEM fix. You push down the accelerator down and it activates some system to do this.

There was a post 2-3 weeks ago where someone had developed a fix for the 86-88 FC3Ss that could probably be applied to the GEN Is. I think there's a website out there as well with a similar fix.

Anyone remember?

New injectors do work, but that's not really a fix.

 

vaughnc,
Thanks for the info. I don't think you realize but I am talking about my 88 T2. Read the bottom of my first post.

Thanks,
Mike

 

It is caused by a number of things. One of them is dirty injectors. This does not TOTAYYL fix the problem like most people think. it does make it better, but it will still happen. I know a number of people that have cleaned their injectors by RX or other places, and it still happens, just not as frequestly. The motor is losing compression is the main reason for this problem. It is not to the point that the motor needs to be rebuilt, but it is rather showing the higher mileage that most of our cars have. THe 89+ cars had a fuel cut built into the ECU, and when you floored the gas pedal, it cut off the fuel pump, and the car would start just like the pull the fuse trick. The other fix for you to do to remidy this problem is to install a fuel cut switch inside the car. It wires into the fuel pump relay under the dash, just below the steering column. There is a center wire on that connector that you tap into and install an ON/OFF switch. Then when you have the hot start problem, just turn off the fuel, turn over the car, and when it starts, flip the switch ON and the car runs fine.

It is still a good idea to get the injectors cleaned if they haven't been in awhile. Also, something that some people I know do, it to rev the engine before turning it off. This allows the engine to blow out the fuel that it leaves in the combustion chamber, which is what is causing this problem.

 

Ahh - the old fuel cut / security turn valve in the armrest trick.

 

haha Very true. It is alot harder to steal the car when there is no fuel to it. But then again, most thieves can't figure out the hot start either LOL

 

Got a '88 Vert and an '85 GSL-SE, so I know this one.

Best fix, go with the first reply and pull your injectors and send them to RC Engineering. You not only fix the hot start problem, but if your like you you'll TOTALLY notice a big difference in performance.

Secondary fix, Mazdatrix sells an H valve you mount between the supply and return fuel lines. Not that expensive and it works well. Check out their websit at www.mazdatrix.com. You should have it as one of your favorites anyway as they have tons of good reference information there.

The issue is when you turn off your engine your dirty injectors "dribble" into the chambers because the fuel pressure is still there. So long as you engine is hot, the fule will simply evaporate. But as the engine cools, the dribbling floods your engine. What the H valve does is blead off the pressure into the return line via a REALLY TINNNY connector pipe.

Alternatively, if you just get your injectors backflushed and tuned by RC Engineering you stop the dribbleing in the first place. Thus, better choice.