home depot racing fan shroud
#1
vac leak
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home depot racing fan shroud
i've decided to ditch the mechanical fan and go with the efan setup.....and chose the permacool 16 incher....as many of u guys know.....it doesnt come with a shroud like the blackmagic one...so i went to home depot and picked up some Alumium flashing 14"x10' for ~8 bucks....bought a rivoting tool 9.95 and some rivots 2x2.49 ...this is the end result...
took about 4-5 hours including making the various pieces and rivoting them together...
took about 4-5 hours including making the various pieces and rivoting them together...
#6
I'm a boost creep...
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Sorry to be a downer, but you need to throw that shroud away and start again, as you've made two major mistakes.
Firstly, the hole in the back of the shroud should definitely not be smaller than the fan. All you're doing is restricting the fan's performance and unnecessarily restricting flow through the radiator at high speed. The shroud should have ~1/4" clearance from the fan blade tips.
Secondly, the depth of the shroud should leave half of the fan's depth inside the shroud and half outside. Look at any OEM fan, electric or machanical, and you'll see the same thing. This optimises the shroud's effect. Your fan is completely within the shroud, which will create a lot of flow-killing turbulence.
Making a shroud is a very good idea, you just need to improve you design to make it worthwhile.
Firstly, the hole in the back of the shroud should definitely not be smaller than the fan. All you're doing is restricting the fan's performance and unnecessarily restricting flow through the radiator at high speed. The shroud should have ~1/4" clearance from the fan blade tips.
Secondly, the depth of the shroud should leave half of the fan's depth inside the shroud and half outside. Look at any OEM fan, electric or machanical, and you'll see the same thing. This optimises the shroud's effect. Your fan is completely within the shroud, which will create a lot of flow-killing turbulence.
Making a shroud is a very good idea, you just need to improve you design to make it worthwhile.
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#9
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Originally Posted by torean
damnit!!!!!...i know i shoulda made a post before i started rivoting........i hate rivoting.....
#10
just dont care.
iTrader: (6)
just make another one without the fan being totally underneath the shroud. check out the stock fan shroud and the way its designed... its pretty good even though its huge, just check out the way the fan blades are positioned with the shroud.
and make the hole a little bigger than the blades.
and make the hole a little bigger than the blades.
#11
vac leak
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yeah....i figured...im just gonna start trimming the sides of hte circle to make it bigger.......i aint gonna chuck this....so many hours of rivoting.....so many hours......with a POS rivoter
#13
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Sorry to be a downer, but you need to throw that shroud away and start again, as you've made two major mistakes.
Firstly, the hole in the back of the shroud should definitely not be smaller than the fan. All you're doing is restricting the fan's performance and unnecessarily restricting flow through the radiator at high speed. The shroud should have ~1/4" clearance from the fan blade tips.
Secondly, the depth of the shroud should leave half of the fan's depth inside the shroud and half outside. Look at any OEM fan, electric or machanical, and you'll see the same thing. This optimises the shroud's effect. Your fan is completely within the shroud, which will create a lot of flow-killing turbulence.
Making a shroud is a very good idea, you just need to improve you design to make it worthwhile.
Firstly, the hole in the back of the shroud should definitely not be smaller than the fan. All you're doing is restricting the fan's performance and unnecessarily restricting flow through the radiator at high speed. The shroud should have ~1/4" clearance from the fan blade tips.
Secondly, the depth of the shroud should leave half of the fan's depth inside the shroud and half outside. Look at any OEM fan, electric or machanical, and you'll see the same thing. This optimises the shroud's effect. Your fan is completely within the shroud, which will create a lot of flow-killing turbulence.
Making a shroud is a very good idea, you just need to improve you design to make it worthwhile.
You have 3 options for placing the fan blade:
1) Place the blades half way in the hole, as indicated by NZConvertible.
2) Enlarge the hole to about the same size as the fan blade arc, then place the fan blades completely behind the hole (toward the engine). Then add a metal strip around the edge of the fan blade arc to act as a circular duct. You will see many e-fans in this configuration if they come with a plastic or nylon shroud body.
3) A combination of the two above, with the fan blades half way through the hole, but also adding the metal strip around the rear half of the blades.
Either way, you want the hole as close as possible to the fan blade arc without hitting (no more than 1" clearance).
Best way to help avoid mistakes: Make a cardboard mock-up shroud before you cut, bend, or rivet any metal. This way you can also test the shrould to make sure it fits in the car without any clearance problems. Duct tape and wood glue work great on the cardboard.
Things you did right:
1) At least 1" between the fan and the radiator.
2) Edges of the shroud angled toward the fan.
#16
The mystery of the prize.
I did something similar a while back, photodocumented here:
http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7/pics/07-23-2004/
The riveting is easy, what problems are you having? You just drill the hole, pop the rivet in with the rivet tool, and pull the handle -Snap! done. Whats so difficult about it?
I paid a few extra bucks to get a 'contracter quality' riveting tool when I bought the rivnut tool @ menards, it works flawlessly and supports quite a few different rivet sizes.
BTW, What are you using to cut the sheet metal?
http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7/pics/07-23-2004/
The riveting is easy, what problems are you having? You just drill the hole, pop the rivet in with the rivet tool, and pull the handle -Snap! done. Whats so difficult about it?
I paid a few extra bucks to get a 'contracter quality' riveting tool when I bought the rivnut tool @ menards, it works flawlessly and supports quite a few different rivet sizes.
BTW, What are you using to cut the sheet metal?
#18
vac leak
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the problem is when i try to pop the rivot i need to clamp it twice... the insert is too long for the arm lever....then when i try to tighen it again...the clamp inside hte rivoter gets stuck and i'd have to loosen the back to get it out....overall..PITA....
#19
The mystery of the prize.
Originally Posted by torean
the problem is when i try to pop the rivot i need to clamp it twice... the insert is too long for the arm lever....then when i try to tighen it again...the clamp inside hte rivoter gets stuck and i'd have to loosen the back to get it out....overall..PITA....
#20
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Originally Posted by torean
thanks...but i need pictures to explain what ur talking about....my faced turned into @c@ when i was reading it
1A, 2A, and 3A are as I described in examples 1, 2, and 3 earlier.
1B, 2B, and 3B are variants that may be a bit more efficient, but are probably more difficult to fabricate and may not be as strong as the A variants.
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