Higher oil flash point = less oil smoke?
#1
Higher oil flash point = less oil smoke?
I've been doing some light research on oil trying to see if there's a better option out there to reduce the smoke from my wearing oil control rings. I currently (and have used for most of my cars) use Castrol GTX. 20w50 for the RX-7s. I used Royal Purple for awhile and it seemed to cause more smoking.and it seems to have a lower flash point than Castrol. I found that Redline seems to be the best bang. What are your thoughts? The car puffs out light oil smoke every cold start, and if you let it idle for more than 2 minutes without setting off it will start to haze and fog up the driveway. Sometimes it smokes and sometimes it doesn't. Am I thinking about this correctly that flash point will make a difference? Just wondering if this oil will help since I won't be able to rebuild until the end of this year...
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil - 20W50 Motor Oil
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil - 20W50 Motor Oil
#2
10th Mazda - 10th A.E.
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About 15 years ago I built a Pontiac 455 and didn't quite get the ring end gap correct. After about 1,000 miles it started smoking a little bit. I used Redline 10-40 thinking like you did. All it did was smoke more. I switched to Valvoline 20-50 and that reduced it. I ran it like that untill I could buld it again.
#3
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I've been doing some light research on oil trying to see if there's a better option out there to reduce the smoke from my wearing oil control rings. I currently (and have used for most of my cars) use Castrol GTX. 20w50 for the RX-7s. I used Royal Purple for awhile and it seemed to cause more smoking.and it seems to have a lower flash point than Castrol. I found that Redline seems to be the best bang. What are your thoughts? The car puffs out light oil smoke every cold start, and if you let it idle for more than 2 minutes without setting off it will start to haze and fog up the driveway. Sometimes it smokes and sometimes it doesn't. Am I thinking about this correctly that flash point will make a difference? Just wondering if this oil will help since I won't be able to rebuild until the end of this year...
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil - 20W50 Motor Oil
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil - 20W50 Motor Oil
The OMP operation was intact, so the oil control rings were worn, like yours. A local rotary shop told me to try a bottle of STP stop smoke with each oil change. It is a super thick oil treatment with a consistency of honey...in fact, there is a similar product called "motor honey." It helps seal the gaps or cracks on the worn oil control rings by filling the area and causing the remaining OEM rubber to swell. I have read that over time it can accelerate wear of the remaining good rubber...
However, I used this product with each oil change for over 5 years with this used motor. I'll also be honest, when I was in college and low on $$ I'm sure I went way over on my oil change intervals and I used the car for short trips a lot so the oil took a real beating but the product kept working for years and years as I rarely ever noticed oil smoke anymore.
The motor was still OK when I finally converted to a TII swap with a rebuild. If the smoking is that bad, this product could definitely buy you a bunch of time while you save up for a proper rebuild.
#4
Most likely whats going on is the oil pressure leftover from running after shut down seeps oil stored in the rotors through the poor seals. It pools in the housings over night and when you start it up it smokes until the seals have expanded enough to stop further leakage.
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