High RPM smoke, WTF??
#1
High RPM smoke, WTF??
Ok guys today was the first time i brought my car up too redline, and it has a rebuilt engine with about 70k, ok stoped at the stop sign and i was in first, i punched it, and it went to about 7k easy and then kinda hesitated at 7500, and stayed there for a split sec, and then jumped to 8k, and when i shifted to 2nd it blew out so much smoke that i coulnt see the intersection behind me, but it still runns ok and everythink, and the engine has a streetport if you need to know, 90 s5, n/a, and i think it uses a little too much oil than normal, what can i check...
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#9
not really, i dont think cause i check the other day for the first time and it was like 5 spoon fulls low, and i check it like 2 weeks later and it was the same, and now im haveing the hot start prob, like u have to crank for like 3 secs now, it used to fire right up
#15
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k since noone else did this yet, ill give you a quick rundown on how to diagnose the problem:
when the cars cold, pop the coolant fill cap and check for coolant clarity. if it looks muddy, or visible oil slicks, you have a coolant leak. its normal to have some small distortion, but for the most part coolant should still be bright green or blue or whatever color you like. check the overflow too, it should be the same story.
coolant looks okay?
start the car up and pop the cap. dont know if you can do this on an s5, but can do on an s4. while the cars warming up coolant should stay smooth and glassy. if you pop the cap, and coolant gushes with engine strokes, you have a busted seal.
other symptoms are overflow bottle always full (from compressed exhaust gasses in coolant)
whitish grey smoke isnt too bad, you need to learn the diff between burning oil smell, and burning coolant smell.
i still think the odds are its just oil. pass smog lately? does it smoke as you rev, or just when you rev and let off the gas?
when the cars cold, pop the coolant fill cap and check for coolant clarity. if it looks muddy, or visible oil slicks, you have a coolant leak. its normal to have some small distortion, but for the most part coolant should still be bright green or blue or whatever color you like. check the overflow too, it should be the same story.
coolant looks okay?
start the car up and pop the cap. dont know if you can do this on an s5, but can do on an s4. while the cars warming up coolant should stay smooth and glassy. if you pop the cap, and coolant gushes with engine strokes, you have a busted seal.
other symptoms are overflow bottle always full (from compressed exhaust gasses in coolant)
whitish grey smoke isnt too bad, you need to learn the diff between burning oil smell, and burning coolant smell.
i still think the odds are its just oil. pass smog lately? does it smoke as you rev, or just when you rev and let off the gas?
#17
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in my case, its leaky oil injectors. when you let off the gas, the injectors are still pumping oil, and ignition and fuel are cut, so oil combusts and flys out your exhaust.. or something like that.
#18
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if anyone cares for my theory...
seven k rev... combusting pressure pushes the seals outward, toward the housings. Not a FAST Decel... what happens? If the ECU fuel cuts on the decel, that combustion pressure pushing out will become either nuetral pressure, or a vacuum pulling in.
The seals go from getting pushed out to having no pressure or a vac... If the seal is at all not seated correctly, while the seal re-seats itself, it may bypass some coolant.
anyone want to cut this one down, go for it, im curious
seven k rev... combusting pressure pushes the seals outward, toward the housings. Not a FAST Decel... what happens? If the ECU fuel cuts on the decel, that combustion pressure pushing out will become either nuetral pressure, or a vacuum pulling in.
The seals go from getting pushed out to having no pressure or a vac... If the seal is at all not seated correctly, while the seal re-seats itself, it may bypass some coolant.
anyone want to cut this one down, go for it, im curious
#19
I recently got mine also, and was having lots of issues w/ the 5/6th ports so that I couldn't get over 3800 w/o shaking the car apart. Once I got it fixed I opened it up and ran to the redline for the first time in probably a few years for that car and it blew a ton of crap out the back end. It hasn't done it since so i'm just chalking that up to needing to blow all the carbon and **** out of the engine. Just an idea, not sure if yours is happening every time or just that once.
Patrick
Patrick
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yea ive heard that many times.. ocr's are those the rings on the oil jets? ive been thinking of just doing an omp blockoff, anyhow you should be careful redlining a motor from a driver who doesnt really push it that hard. at 7krpm, a chunk of carbon can literally fly off of a rotor and damage and blow an apex seal. solution: seafoam or possibly carb cleaner. id reccomend it for an aged motor, but it CAN (theoretically) cause damagein itself..
#23
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by RX7Boy06
Well ive only went to redline once and it only happens when u let off the gas,(when you shift), and ill check the coolent color tomarrow and see if it bubbles or anything, thanx for all the help
#24
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by Kenteth
if anyone cares for my theory...
seven k rev... combusting pressure pushes the seals outward, toward the housings. Not a FAST Decel... what happens? If the ECU fuel cuts on the decel, that combustion pressure pushing out will become either nuetral pressure, or a vacuum pulling in.
The seals go from getting pushed out to having no pressure or a vac... If the seal is at all not seated correctly, while the seal re-seats itself, it may bypass some coolant.
anyone want to cut this one down, go for it, im curious
seven k rev... combusting pressure pushes the seals outward, toward the housings. Not a FAST Decel... what happens? If the ECU fuel cuts on the decel, that combustion pressure pushing out will become either nuetral pressure, or a vacuum pulling in.
The seals go from getting pushed out to having no pressure or a vac... If the seal is at all not seated correctly, while the seal re-seats itself, it may bypass some coolant.
anyone want to cut this one down, go for it, im curious
The only time you see this happening is in extremely high HP applications and cases of detonation, where you can actually see where the rotor housing flexed and moved around.
Under normal, low power applications such as this, the pressure deflection of the rotor housing is neglible... While ANY force will cause some distance, this distance is so ridiculously minute that it cannot be measured.