wankelhead

i'm having problems with my oil temps.they run way to hot for comfort.i need some advice.
here is my current setup.22x19 griffin rad w/black magic fan.water temps stay ok.i had my oil cooler flushed,but,as i read in a old post,due to the thermostad,the whole unit might not have gotten flushed.what's the changes of this cousing a problem?
the other issue is air flow.from talking to rob @ pineapple,i may not get enough airflow through my oil cooler due to electric fan+the fact that my rad. is further towards the motor,increasing the space between the 2 coolers.he recommends converting back to stock fan,with a custom made shroud.i dont think its very feasable in my car,due to heater hose location,i would damm near have to get a different rad.[i know,should have gotten a fluidyne...].i dunno.how's everyones oil temps thats running elec. fans?i know this has been discussed quite a bit[elec.vs.stock],but whats the verdict?seems like a lot of ppl say stock,but i read about plenty that have good cooling with elec. fans.
could i install a small cooling fan on the oil cooler?its not my water temps that are the problem...any ideas?
david

Scott 89t2

I have a bigger rad moved back, and an e-fan. and I have no problems...

what temps are you seeing? is your problem while stoped or moving?

do you have the under pan?

Silkworm

I'm racing on the stock oil cooler, with (now a Koyo) a Griffin 26x19 radiator, water temps ~180, oil temps 210, 220 peak.

Not sure what temps you're seeing, but that's on the stock oil cooler.

Did you remove the undertray?

PaulC

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What's the condition of the thermostat on the oil cooler?

RETed

How hot is too hot?

Try ducting more air into the oil cooler?&nbsp When we had a problem with running no engine floor pan, we ran a small duct under the oil cooler that directed air flow running under the car to flow up and into the oil cooler core - this dropped oil temps dramatically!



-Ted

wankelhead

i do have the under tray in place.
during idle/slow speeds [especially slight uphill] i will see 220* pretty quick.if i keep it redlined in first,i pretty much get to 230[-].i had sought my gauge to be faulty,but i just switched it out with my friends mechanical,and i get the same results.this is with 70-80 degee air temps around here.if i cruise at 60+ in 5th,oil temp will range 180-200,but if i start getting on it,temps will come up to 210-218 even at that airspeed.

silkworm-did you see a big change in cooling when you switched from griffin to koyo?my water temps are about 200,with evans npg coolant,wich is supposed to be about right..would rather see 180,thou..

Aaron-i never did test the thermostad,but oil definately is flowing through the oil cooler,when the temp gets to about 160*the whole cooler goes from cool to hot pretty quick

RETed-i have done some air flow mods,using sheet metal.with the floorpan in place,seems like i should be getting as much air as anyone else here through the oil cooler.
thanks for the help guys
d

Scott 89t2

I see 155-170 on the highway (50-60mph)... and 170-180 in town. maxing around 190

water 185-195

RETed

Long shot - what kinda oil are you using?



-Ted

PaulyDee

Let me kick in with a sob story with some lessons to be learned from it. I have been running consistently high oil temp. Since I started tracking the car I ran normal coolant temps (190-200) and oil temp has always been over 250. This was with a stock rad and cooler. I have run Redline with no problem of oil pressure drop or motor damage.

I figured it was time to do some work on the cooling system, so I went with a C&R Racing radiator and fabricated a duct for the oil cooler which takes air from a hole cut into the lip spoiler. Someone also told me to remove the thermal bypass valve from the cooler to promote oil flow and improve cooling.

I went to VIR for a three day weekend, and within three laps the motor was toast. I susequently fried the front stationary gear bearing (spun it). I am in the rebuild process right now.

The moral of the story is removing the thermal bypass valve WITHOUT PLUGING the resulting hole will prevent the oil from traveling through the cooler at all. I wish someone had told me this sooner.

Temps in the 240-260 range are prety common in racing circles. Synthetic oil can handle this without too much fuss. Over 260 is asking for serious trouble.

Judging from the smell of the oil I drained out of my toasted motor, I can only assume that the temp was somewhere north of 300 degrees. Ouch.

So anyway, some fixes I have heard of were to run two stock oil cooler in series (which I am not fond of myself), relocaiting the stock cooler further forward into the airstream. I thought ducting the cooler would help but I never had a chance to test my setup. Good luck on what ever you decide to go with.

Paul D'Angelo
www.iridiumracing.com

wankelhead

wich radiator are you running?and,what fan?

right now,castrol 10-30

-david

wankelhead

still working on this....pulled off my oil cooler today,tested the temp/bypass valve,checks out fine.i'm looking to find a place that'il flush it for me,i think that could help,as the last time my oil cooler was flushed,the temp valve was not taken into consideration.any more input?
david