DCmina

Hi, my 7 got crazy! Could you please tell me what's wrong?

Here's the story:
3 days ago, I got my radiator replaced, so I moved the car from the street to the garage and shut off the engine before it was warm.
The mechanic guy then changed the radiator, and also the spark plugs.
We then tried to start the car, but it wouldn't want to (it was flooded but no one knew at the time).
Then, he put the old plugs back (all trailing), and the car still didn't wanna start.
On top of that, the battery died.

The next day, I unflooded my car. I took off the EGI fuse and tried to start the car while holding the gas pedal.
After a few tries, the car finally starts! The battery didn't wanna charge, so I was forced to buy a new one.
Everything was perfect, except that now the car was idleing at 2.5.

Then this morning, while going to school, the car would now idle at 4!
But when coming back from school, the car was all jerky and my top speed was about 20mph! I pushed in the gas but it wouldn't go any faster! I got lots of people honking too!

So could anyone tell me what's wrong with my beloved 7?
Thanks a bunch!

DCmina

Bump!

Erik

you mean 4 or 400? i'm guessing you mean 400 rpms

could you have offset your throttle cable at all while you were messing around under the hood. although it didn't hurt my acceleration, when my throttle cable was outta place on my T2 it caused a different idle, and a small mechanical delay when pushing the gas. i mean thats just a guess...

the weird idle and acceleration problems could also be the TPS. but from what i understand it wouldn't just go bad that suddenly if it was always fine before that.

DCmina

It was at 4000 RPM! I wish it would be at 400!

importboi22

check for leaks on anywhere on the intake pipes and if its a T2 check for broken charge pipes!!

DCmina

Ok, stupid question, but where is the intake?

Ryde _Or_Die

What part of the intake? The air comes in from a stock 7 from the airbox on the passenger side, should say MAZDA on it pretty big. There is a large tube going to that back towards the windshield. Just follow all that and look for leaks. I heard you can start the car and then spray some starter fluid around a little to see if the engine responds(which it shouldn't if there are no leaks). If that would cause any problems correct me before he tries it, but thats just what I heard and it makes sense.

Ryde _Or_Die

Oh, and I have no clue whats wrong with your car, maybe really bad injectors leaking and giving way too much gas all the time & "flooding" the engine some even when its running? I have no freaking clue to tell the truth cuz my 7 has me stumped too. I am going to have to take it to a shop when I get some money here.

Shamrock1054

Found out the hard way you can't adjust the throttle linkage on a cold motor, has to be warm and off the fast idle cam or the cable will hold trottle partially open. Just a thought.

Gregg

DCmina

Well the guy who changed the rad took out the air filter to change it, so that must be why the car is behaving that way.

Do you think it would be safe for the car if I use it to go to scholl tomorrow?

Shamrock1054

All he did was change the radiator and air filter?

Is the AFM plug in place? Is the tube from the AFM to the turbo inlet cracked or loose? AFM is the silver box behind the filter box.

Gregg

Shamrock1054

****! Sorry, you don' t have a turbo. Still, I'd look at the AFM, make sure the plug is in tight, make sure hose from AFM is not cracked and secure, all vaccuum hoses OK. Are lead/ trail plugs back in correctly?

Gregg

DCmina

No he took out the air filter box to change the rad and then put it back.
Err, you are using terms too complicated for me.

Thanks.

Shamrock1054

Fouled plugs?

Shamrock1054

Check the simple stuff first. Clean plugs in the right place, trailing on top, lead on bottom. #1 plugs front of motor( towards radiator) plug wires on securely and correctly( #1 plug goes to coil with white dot, lead coil up front, near battery, trail coil on strut tower.

Gregg

Shamrock1054

Check around air cleaner box, make sure hoses are conected securely, nothing loose or broken.

DCmina

Oh yea since the car was flooded the plugs may be fouled. Right now I'm running on all trailings. I'll go check air box tomorrow morning!

Thanks!!

DCmina

Hi, thanks for the replies.
I think I found the answer to my problem.
The mechanic came and told me that this thing was messed up. There's some sort of switch that comes in and out. As it's in the RPM lowers and as it's out it raises. I think the computer is messed up and is telling not to operate properly.
Is there anything I can do or do I have to replace the thing?

Juan

iTrader: (28)

thats the beloved tps sensor that everybody loves Maybe it needs adjusting or maybe you need a new one. U can try going to a junkyard and pulling one out and trying it out. This beats buying a new one $$$. Where in cali are u? If youre close to me I can help check it out.

DCmina

Hmm how could I adjust it?
The mechanic is going to check junkyards for a used one.
I live in Orange County, Westminster, if you could come that would be great!
Thank you very much!

Juan

iTrader: (28)

just out of curiousity, does your mechanic know anything about rotary engines??

DCmina

I don't really know, he's my dad's friend and I wasn't here when he inspected the car.
He didn't even know the car was flooded last time and installed the plugs in the wrong direction so maybe he doesn't? :P
I found the TPS adjust screw but do I turn it counterclockwise or clockwise?
How about the idle adjust screw?

Juan

iTrader: (28)

see below :p

Juan

iTrader: (28)

Juan

iTrader: (28)

I just read the second site I gave u carefully. It shows you how to adjust the TPS using the lamps and the ohm meter. So just use the first site for the instructions on how to make the lamp.