Valdez

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, hoping you have a few ideas to try.
Can't get the car to stay started was definitely running well when I parked it.

It has been sitting for about 3 years. Driven very rarely for the 2 years before that.
I drained the gas tank and put in a little fresh gas. Old stuff was likely bad (was yellower than it should be and had a kind of varsol smell) Put fresh oil in and then tried to start using booster cables from a running car. It started up no problem every time but will only stay going on its own for about 4 seconds before dying.

I did some more digging and found the spark plugs were not the best and one had a questionable spark plug wire. Replaced the one wire and plugs with some used but still ok spares I had. It didn't make any difference.

I also disconnected the 2 fuel lines thinking there could still be bad gas in the lines. Was able to blow thru one of them all the way to the tank and could hear bubbles so I assume there is enough gas in the tank. The other fuel line (coming from the fuel filter) I could not blow thru. Question: Does this one have a one way valve or does this mean it is plugged?

Any other ideas that could cause it to not want to stay running? Like I said starting is not an issue at all, just staying running.

3vil

iTrader: (4)

here's something Satch helped me out with when i was having a similar problem...

FCguy

Can you keep it running with the pedal? Is it just dieing when you try to let it idle or can you not keep it running at all?

I know you've already done plugs and wires but I would have never tried to start a motor that has sat for a long time without first blowing out as much of the old gas as possible. Trash/sand/corrosion/other contaminates can settle to the bottom of the tank so I always recommend doing as much as one can to flush it out. Removing the fuel pump in an FC allows you to see right down to the bottom of the tank.

I found SAND in mine after a fuel pump died (premium gas from a backwoods gas station ... fail). I made a suction hose with some old garden hose and a blower attachment from my compressor (slit the hose near the end and blow air in the direction of the hoses drain (opposite the side that is in the tank) and it will suction pretty good). You can then add more fuel and swirl to keep the contaminants suspended while you suck it all out. Repeat till no contaminates can be seen left or you feel like quitting.

NEW FUEL FILTER FOR SURE ... after you AT LEAST inspect the tank contents after removing the fuel pump assembly. Yours is probably full of crap after starting it with crap still at the bottom of the tank.

OIL CHANGE FOR SURE TOO ... hopefully get the seals moving freely. Another thing you should always do before even attempting to start a motor that has sat.

Check for corroded connections in vital spots.

Valdez

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input guys.
I'll try a few more things tomorrow.

I'll jumper the fuel connector and see if fuel is getting thru. Also should help flush anymore bad gas that may be in the line.

It doesn't want to stay running at all. Idles quietly for around 4 or 5 seconds then dies. Starts no problem. Giving it a little gas doesn't help.

This engine is gonna get pulled once it is running. I just need to make sure it will run first. I'm hoping I can get away without having to do a more thorough flush and new fuel filter considering it is a parts car. I already did the oil and drained what I could from the tank so it shouldn't be too bad.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

You really should check the air intake especially the Filter,since Critters really LOVE that area of the stock air box.
Also I had an AFM corrode to the point of Barely opening since it was stored 2 years,and had to take it apart and sand the Flapper to get it moving again.

Valdez

iTrader: (1)

Did the fuel jumper. Ran the pump for a bit and looked to be getting close to the 900ml per minute of fuel. Return line is clear.
Air paths are clear. AFM shouldn't matter anymore now that the fuel is jumpered, correct?

If spark was poor would it have even started in the first place? I'm thinking I must have good enough spark or I'd just be flooding it.

I wonder if there was still enough old gas left that it mixed with the bit of fresh and gas is still too crappy to please the car. That's all I can think of at the moment.

Valdez

iTrader: (1)

Apparently my MAF is screwed after all. It is not opening and letting air in.

Tried it with the large air tube disconnected at the top of the engine. Also had the fuel jumper in place. Still dies after a couple seconds.

Isn't the fuel jumper supposed to bypass the AFM signal to allow it to keep running? I have the main air intake disconnected so it should be able to breathe now. What am I doing wrong? And can I eliminate the MAF all together to avoid replacing it? Just need to prove this thing will run well.

Valdez

iTrader: (1)

Success! Kind of.
Unjammed the MAF flapper and put it back in. Now she runs for more than a few seconds, but need to give it gas or it will stall. Running bit rough too, with lots of white smoke but running.
The MAF is probably junk, as the flapper sticks still, but will move if forced. I just left it stuck in the open position.
I kept starting and running it for a bit until it got too smoky. I tried to burn off any crud and see if the smoke lightens up and if it would run a little better. Eventually it wouldn't start anymore so I assume I either ran the tank too empty or flooded it.
Until I pick up more gas any further ideas?

Would a better MAF help it much, or as long as it stays open is that all I really need to accomplish (other issues to tackle or more work needed with the MAF to make it run better)?

Th0m4s

White smoke sounds really bad. Could be a broken waterseal. That could also explain why it's not starting anymore after it was running for a while. Your spark plugs could be wet because of coolant flooding the engine.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

you can take the S4 AFM apart at those little phillips screws and pop the plate off.
That will leave the Flapper still IN the other part.
Take a Bit of sandpaper and clean the corrosion out of it and put it back together.
The screws are kind of hard to get off,Push and turn out,sort of thing and that should release them.

Valdez

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it is coolant, but could be wrong. I've smelled that before. This smoke doesn't smell sweet, just smell like a nasty snow machine. The exhaust is shot on this car so the cats probably aren't doing much. I'm hoping it will get less bad the more I run it.

Do I need to make it operate properly, or it is good enough to just be left in the stuck open position? I don't want to spend too much time cleaning up the MAF if it won't make any further of a difference. Once it is running half decently I am just going pull the engine and scrap the MAF and everything else that is garbage anyway.

Valdez

iTrader: (1)

Messed around some more today.
Has now gone from starting reliably but shutting off after a few seconds, to flooding.
Deflooded it but, now I think I just flooded it again.

I am guessing this is happening because the AFM is stuck open and it thinks it is getting more air than it is and thus taking in more fuel too.
Does this theory sound right?
If so I may have to do as Misterstyx suggested and take that trouble making AFM apart or replace it.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The flapper being stuck in a particular position isn't going to help much if the position is not the same position you would find in it if the car were idling.

Valdez

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. She is running sweet now. Once the AFM was replaced, she flooded on me, couldn't get it to catch anymore. I bought new spark plugs and deflooded it and that did the trick instantly. I guess once it got flooded the old plugs were just too weak to get her going again. Amazing what new plugs can do.

If anybody wants plugs I found a deal and bought extra. $40 shipped for a set of 2nd gen NA, NGK plugs. PM me if you want them.