Here's the motor I have along with a possibly stupid question
#1
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Here's the motor I have along with a possibly stupid question
Hello everyone I'm new to the community, but I have been an FC junkie for about 7 years. Right now I have an 87 TII and a 91 N/A. Both are dead and my wife would like for me to move them so that she can park her RX8 in the driveway. The motor I have at the current time (sitting in my living room so that I can make sure that it does not get dirty) is a series 4 motor with series 5 rotors, street port 3mm seals, dowell pinned with upgraded oil system. It has some other things done to it, but it has been so long since I had it built that I forgot what else was done to it (I'm too lazy to dig out the spec sheet this late at night). My question is: the motor has been sitting virtually untouched for almost 3 years, what should I do to it before I put it in the car? Do yall think it is still good or do I need to take it apart and make sure that the internals have no rust on them. Or should I just do the ATF trick to grease up the inside and clean it out that way.
#2
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from what i remember hearing the atf trick is bullshit, never do it. as for your question, an ounce or so of oil to each chamber and manually turn it over a few times, i believe it should be fine
#3
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Marvels Mystery Oil...
used it on my old 1969 Saab model 96, cast iron V4 that had seized with rust. 2tbs in each cyl and let it sit for a week while i went away on business. came home and started it. it actually started... 'nuf said
a little bit in each rotor face and let it sit then turn the rotors with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut once a day for a few days and you should be fine.
link --> Marvel Mystery Oil
hope that helps,
TR
used it on my old 1969 Saab model 96, cast iron V4 that had seized with rust. 2tbs in each cyl and let it sit for a week while i went away on business. came home and started it. it actually started... 'nuf said
a little bit in each rotor face and let it sit then turn the rotors with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut once a day for a few days and you should be fine.
link --> Marvel Mystery Oil
hope that helps,
TR
#4
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or....
use stuff that is actually suppose to go into your engine
put oil in chambers if you like, crank it a few times with fuses disconnected...
oil pressure up, fuse back in, start it up and drive.
unless you assembled it dry, there should still be some oil/*** lube in there. they just dont dry out...
use stuff that is actually suppose to go into your engine
put oil in chambers if you like, crank it a few times with fuses disconnected...
oil pressure up, fuse back in, start it up and drive.
unless you assembled it dry, there should still be some oil/*** lube in there. they just dont dry out...
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 01-19-07 at 08:33 AM.
#5
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Yeah, I would do like everyone else is suggesting. Just take a couple table-spoons (or squirts) or ATF, motor-oil, 2-stroke oil or whatever and put it into the motor via the exhaust ports and intake ports. Then just turn the motor over by hand maybe like 10 rotations and then let it all "sink in" over night (or for a week, whatever). This should prep it enough that you can install it and attempt starting it.
#7
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Since the engine was rebuilt, it should still be full of assembly lube and all the gunk used to put it together. That stuff doesn't dry out so you should be fine to just crank it over. However to err on the side of caution I would suggest you follow the advice posted above and put some oil into the chambers, crank it over by hand, and then repeat.
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