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Are my housings scrap???

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Old 01-18-07, 08:41 PM
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Exclamation Are my housings scrap???

Well as I was finalizing my prep for rebuilding this engine of mine, I started to do my measurments of the rotors, housings, irons, ect ect and came across this on BOTH rotor housings.

It looks to be gouges approx 4 inches in length from the bottom of the housing to about an inch above the exhaust port.
Attached Thumbnails Are my housings scrap???-housing1.jpg   Are my housings scrap???-housing2.jpg  
Old 01-18-07, 08:52 PM
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I would say yes.... they are scrap. Thats some pretty bad crumbflake/gouging. Hard to tell. Those pictures are a little fuzzy. You have Macro on that camera? Turn it on.

EDIT: I would like to say that I base my opinion of this housing on almost no hands-on experience but a lot of research... so.... take it with a grain of salt.

Last edited by micah; 01-18-07 at 08:55 PM. Reason: I suck
Old 01-18-07, 09:01 PM
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No Macro, that was my cell phone camera. My digi cam took a swim thanks to my 2 year old Nephew. I was assuming they were bad. DAmmit, so now Im stuck looking at possibly getting new IRons cause the ones I got are Bridge ported and I dont want that, and now ******* housings.
Old 01-18-07, 09:03 PM
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i'm sure the motor would run but that is some hefty flaking and would cause some serious compression loss so i would say scrap them unless you like using your fuel pump cut switch every time you start the car.


at least they will make nice bookends since you went through the trouble of porting them.
Old 01-18-07, 09:05 PM
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dammit, sorry for the noob question, but whats the average asking price for some good used housings? Guess Im gonna run the bridgeport cause Im gonna have to get housings.
Old 01-18-07, 09:16 PM
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about $75-150 a piece.
Old 01-18-07, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
..........unless you like using your fuel pump cut switch every time you start the car............
Can you explain? Why would crumb flake cause you to cut your fuel when starting? Is it just because of the lack of compression would flood it before it started? Or am I missing something.
Old 01-18-07, 09:18 PM
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yes, loss of compression during cranking causes these motors to flood out easily, especially when running the stock ECU which you cannot lean out the cranking mixtures on.
Old 01-18-07, 09:18 PM
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Got any Karack ? lol
Old 01-18-07, 09:19 PM
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i'm running low on S4 housings actually, i need to make some runs to the wreckers but i really don't want to spend my weekend pulling motors.
Old 01-18-07, 09:20 PM
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Mine floods when it sits, but doesn't take a LOT of cranking to start... I'm REALLY hoping I don't see a lot of this when it gets pulled apart. Thats assuming RotaryResurrection (Kevin) returns my calls/emails/PM's sometime this year
Old 01-18-07, 09:21 PM
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it really depends on the mileage of the housings, i usually only see housings that bad on motors with over 130k on them.
Old 01-18-07, 09:23 PM
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Im gonna be running Megasquirt so I could lean out starting duty cycle, but I still do not want to rebuild this engine and have it grenade on me in 6 months. Uggg, this rebuild is getting uglier and uglier every week. Karack, how much for a fully rebuilt S4 TII ? lol
Old 01-18-07, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
it really depends on the mileage of the housings, i usually only see housings that bad on motors with over 130k on them.
147k. Looks like I'll keep my eyes peeled for some good used housings. Or I'll just save up for some new ones. Which..... would be best.
Old 01-18-07, 09:25 PM
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well i currently don't ship motors mainly because i haven't located a local shipper yet and the only one i did ship wound up costing me a full days worth of profit loss and a full tank of gas to drop it off and drive back. maybe in the future but i would see if Kevin has the time to build you one and he is also closer.

Originally Posted by micaheli
147k. Looks like I'll keep my eyes peeled for some good used housings. Or I'll just save up for some new ones. Which..... would be best.

you both can keep JHB cermet coated housings in mind but currently they have been jerking people around with shipping and losing things in the mail. if they get a good track record then i would consider them an alternative for good condition reconditioned housings which will last longer than OEM and for a little over $300 per housing to be ceramic coated. not sure what their criteria is for wear and what they can and can't repair though but it is worth some investigating.
Old 01-18-07, 09:26 PM
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****, Ill run an S5. Im premixing, and running E-fan. Dunno what else would need switched cause Im full stand alone.
Old 01-18-07, 09:28 PM
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Good luck getting ahold of Kevin... Maybe he just hates me... Possible..
Old 01-18-07, 09:31 PM
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Yeah, I was gonna PM him bout irons till I read a thread about someone wanting NEW parts for the price of used blah blah blah. I see nothing but great reviews for him and he is one of the guys to trust with info on the forums. Anyways, I got a full rebuild kit and everything else seems to be in good working order (Some surface rust on eshafts and rotors but going to clean em up), maybe I can work something out with him. Ill hit him up tomorrow.
Old 01-18-07, 09:32 PM
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i dunno, all the rebuilders have been working like mad lately it seems. there is few rebuilders in the US left that do budget rebuilds, most just opt for mostly new parts and charge over $3k for a reman engine so the budget builders are more swamped with work than ever.

i currently can't even touch another motor for at least a month since that is my current work load, otherwise i would be blowing off customers who have already been waiting.
Old 01-18-07, 09:36 PM
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Then perhaps he needs to make time to remove the "I am currently accepting engines for rebuild" message from his site? Hehe. Okay.. Enough slandering him.. he's a good guy, does good work from what people say.. so I'll shut up.

I have an S5 with a blown motor, and an S5 that I drive.... the blown one is a parts car... so my plan if Kevin can't take my business is to practice porting on the blown S5 motor since I have all of the tools (die grinder, etc)... then I can use the money saved from shipping an paying somebody to rebuild the engine on NEW rotor housings... the crappy part will be porting brand new rotor housings. Maybe I can pay somebody in my local club to port them.

FYI. Sorry for kinda-hijacking your thread. But atleast its still on topic.
Old 01-18-07, 09:40 PM
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ITs cool micaheli. To be honest, I really wanna rebuild this myself. I have done quite a few piston engines and this would be my first rotary. Hell, I might try to find some NA housings and swap the sleeves, mine are ported already lol.
Old 01-18-07, 09:43 PM
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they really aren't all too difficult to do, just take your time and pay attention to detail.

1 month is actually the slowest i've been yet, i expect to be booked up for 3+ months once summer starts, lol. but yea, he should be getting back to people with some kind of response.
Old 01-18-07, 09:45 PM
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Awesome.... Maybe we should do them all at the same time.

If I do my own, I'll do a step by step on my wiki. (See sig for link)
Old 01-18-07, 09:52 PM
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Seeing one broken down now it really is not that difficult looking and from reading the FSM numerous times it seems even easier then doing a damn piston engine. Its the measurments and rotor assembly that seems to be the most tedious.
Old 01-18-07, 09:57 PM
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Great link for a lot of the good parts of rebuilding. Like clearancing side seals, inspecting rotorhousings <nudge> and side housings.

http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com

Enjoy.


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