about a month ago i started smelling gas and through you guys determined it

was the pulsation damper. so i ordered the part and then installed it. as i was

putting the upper intake manifold back on i broke 3 or 4 of the vacuum lines and

the black and green one way something or other that was also connected to

some vac lines just under the trottle body. so i got some new hose and one of

those things. i replaced the ones i broke and some others. i finally got it all back

together. it was running fine exept it was idleing at about 2200. so i screwed the idle

screw as far in as possible and it only went down to about 1800 rpm. i also screwed in

the BAC valve in and it droped to about 1650 rpm. i then checked the timing. i had to

turn that down also as far as i could to get the timing marks lined up right. but that

only dropped it to 1500rpm. now everything is turn as far down as possible and rpms

are still way high. on top of that i cant rev it up after it has warmed up or it boggs

down. anbody got any clues? thanks for any help

 

What's with skipping every other line and no capitalizion? It makes it very hard to read.

 

Honestly it is probably a vacuum leak. There are so many places for one to pop up. Check every single line you can find. Did you replace your gasket on the UIM?

 

yeah i replaced the gasket on the UIM. would a vac leak cause it to idle high?

 

anyone?

 

YES! Thats why i removed all of my emissions. A bunch of it was leaking and my car would rev up to 4000 rpm when cranked. Im still having problems but i dont have any more vac leaks (maybe) as far as not being able to rev it up after it is warmed up that almost sounds like a problem with your AFM.

 

bump

 

Im pretty sure you cant set the timing if its idling at 1500. Doesnt the timing advance after a certain rpm, like 1100rpm? If so you prob set the timing while it was already advanced.

Either way you must have a leak somewhere. Spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid around the vac lines, if you hear the engine rev up or smooth out then you found a leak. Once you fix the leaks to bring the rpms down then redo the timing.

Dont be a cry baby.

 

could i use brake cleaner

 

brake cleaner is just rubbing alchohol that has been arosoled. I dont think injecting rubbing alcohol into your engine is good for it lol. Get some carb cleaner or starting fluid. Both are flamable and are meant to be on the inside of engine components and burned off if they get into the engine. Also just for good measure when it is idling like that pull up of the gas pedal and make sure it just isn't getting stuck somewhere. It might be that you throttle cable is rusted and since you took the intake off some rust might have broke off and is creating a little drag on the cable. Check that first if you dont want to spend the 5 bux of carb cleaner.

 

delete post.

 

i just have some brake cleaner is why i asked. ill get some starter fluid tomorrow. thanks for the advice

 

You have a vacuum leak! Get it fixed! Sorry to say, but you will have to tear the UIM off again and look over ALL your vac lines in there and work your way back.

2nd: check that you plugged in the AFM. It would cause crappy engine. Thank me later.

 

i plan on taking it back apart tomorrow. i did pick up a can of carb cleaner and sprayed the whole can all around to try to hear a change in idle speed but nothing changed. so i figured i would check the compression. i dont have a guage so i just felt the pulses and listened. there were three strong pulses from both rotors without any skips. so that seems fine. just before doing that i notice a clicking sound coming from the BAC. i unplugged it and it stoped clicking. would that have anything to do with it or is that just a seperate problem?

 

The BAC is supposed to vibrate immediately after engine operation and then it shuts off. When looking for vacuum leaks both the brake booster hoses need to be checked for leaks in addition to the long intake tube that runs from the AFM to the throttle body. On an NA there is also a hose underneath the intake tube that could be a source of a vacuum leak. Another thing. Your car description indicates the car is an NA and NA BAC's don't have an adjustment screw.

 

im thinking i might just removal all emissions. i have the ACV block off plate and just ordered an EGR block offplate. do yall know i might be able to find a BAC and Cold Start Valve block off plates?

 

The BAC plays a "very important" role in maintaining a proper idle and assists the car in starting. It is "not" an emissions device. The BAC helps to keep the idle from dropping under 750 rpm.

 

i was just going by the rotary resurection write up

 

I followed the same write up and i am now having problems. I removed the BAC and everyone is telling me to put it back on. I will work on it tomorrow and tell you what happens but until then i would wait.

 

It's going to make warming up the car from a cold start more problematic and it's going to make drivability more difficult. The BAC helps to offset the loss of idle rpm when you turn on the headlights, A/C or turn the car at very low speeds if the car is equipped with power steering. Having a BAC that doesn't work properly hinders the performance of the car while one that works as it should does not hurt the car in any way.

And in regards to your car is it an NA or not?

And what was your idle like before you replaced the Pulsation Damper? Was it steady and at a proper level such as 750 rpm.

 

The operation of the BAC is a rather simple one. Now if your car works like it did when it was brand spanking new then the BAC would be less important but after all these years where the car has aged it usually needs as much help as possible to keep a steady and proper idle.

 

It is very very far from brand spanking new. I followed the write up assuming it would be ok, but i kept all the parts i removed so i can easily put it back on. I just need to find the time to do it.

 

my idle was at about 850 up until about a week before the installation of pulsation damper. i had to park it because it smelled really bad of gas. but i was starting it every couple of days while waiting for the part to come in. the day before the part came in it wouldn't start but i just figured it was cause there wasn't enough gas in the line or something like that

 

well i got it all apart today. nothing looks bad but i'm changing each hose one by one anyway. i ran out of sunlight though gonna have to start alittle earlier tomorrow. i'll keep yall posted

 

Perhaps the 3rd time is a charm, but is your car an NA or not?? Reason I ask is there is no adjustment screw on an NA BAC so if your car is an NA and you made an adjustment to the screw then that means you messed with the Allen screw at the end of the BAC housing which is not to be fudged with at all.