2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

HELPP. car wont go into any gear

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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 07:17 PM
  #26  
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alright. everything is back in.

the clutch pedal just sinks to the floor.

So I am trying to bleed the system.

am I doing this right?

With the car on, pump the clutch a few times, then loosen the bleeder valve on the slave until it stops draining, tighten it and repeat until no more air bubbles

that's what I am doing, and I am not getting anything coming out of the bleeder valve.

also, the fork for the slave is not moving when the clutch is being pressed (is it supposed to even w/o pressure?) I know it did before I started the removal and rebuilding.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 07:32 PM
  #27  
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First off, you bleed the clutch with the car OFF. pump the clutch about 6 times. loosen the bleeder valve on top first and only until it stops spitting air. If it just drains fluid, close it. Do that until you feel comfortable that there is no air in the lines. Then move to the slave bleeder. Do the exact same thing. pump, open until no air bubbles, close, pump, etc, etc, etc. It's best to do this with someone to pump the clutch while you bleed. That way it doesn't take you an hour to do a ten minute job.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 07:41 PM
  #28  
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Exactly..Bama has this one...you need Two people..(or a Way to hold the pedal down after you pump,while you go to the bleeder).Pump the clutch about 6 times Hold it and Crack the Bleeder at the Slave with the Clutch Pedal DOWN.do this Repeatly Until you can see that the Slave Rod is pushing the fork,and the clutch feels GOOD.check your fluid,top it up,go for a spin and see how it works..Sometimes it will take Numerous "bleeds" to get it.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 07:50 PM
  #29  
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my dad was doing this with me. everything I read when I searched for "clutch bleed" said to do it with the car running.

anyways. it took 6 or 7 times to fill the system up enough to get anything. In the end I drained out about 2oz of fluid (to flush out some of the old black crap) afterwards the fluid was clear as normal, no air bubbles at all. and we did hold the pedal down while I did the bleeding.

and yes, the fork did start moving after pressure was built up.

now the bad news...

I still can't shift into gear unless the car's off.

Could this be caused by the Master Cylinder then? I did not rebuild it, but did take it apart and clean everything off to get rid of the black gunk. I also cleaned out the hard line. also, none of the seals in it looked damaged in any way.


When the car is running, with the clutch in, when I try to shift into any gear it drops a couple hundred RPM (depending on the amount of pressure being applied) and just wont go in. it acts as though I'm not applying the clutch pedal at all.

any input is welcome...
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 07:00 AM
  #30  
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yay. I get to buy a new car tonight.
old cars break too often. lol
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 09:53 AM
  #31  
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 01:28 PM
  #32  
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yea. lol
I know I know

my dad's pissed I always have cars that suck.

I've been towed or otherwise imobilized 6 times in the last year. and have owned 6 vehicles (3000GT VR4, Eclipse GS, Galant GS, Olds Cutlass, GMC sierra, and the Vert)

It's time fo rme to get somehting with under 3 years of use and less than 20k miles

I'm going to look at a couple of WRX's w00t

also... I'm prolly keeping the Vert... it'll just be a spring/summer project.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 01:46 PM
  #33  
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sounds like a faulty pilot bearing to me..
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 01:52 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by deagle50ae
yea. lol
I know I know

my dad's pissed I always have cars that suck.

I've been towed or otherwise imobilized 6 times in the last year. and have owned 6 vehicles (3000GT VR4, Eclipse GS, Galant GS, Olds Cutlass, GMC sierra, and the Vert)

It's time fo rme to get somehting with under 3 years of use and less than 20k miles

I'm going to look at a couple of WRX's w00t

also... I'm prolly keeping the Vert... it'll just be a spring/summer project.
well if you are getting a DD get something you wont modify or molest . wrx usally dont get that good of gas milage either...
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 02:00 PM
  #35  
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not worried about gas milage.
but I need something practical that can be fun too.

and I'll do my best to be a gentleman to her.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 02:04 PM
  #36  
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If you still care, I had the exact same clutch problem. I replaced the master and slave, and it still wouldn't go into gear with the engine running.

I eventually took the tranny off, and the throwout bearing was broken. There are 2 tabs that hold the TO bearing to the fork, and one tab had broken off.

I figured, hey, while I have it apart might as well change the clutch. I removed the pressure plate, and the clutch literally fell to pieces.

So, it could be your throwout bearing, or the clutch itself. If the pilot bearing was bad, I really don't think it would keep you from shifting, you would probably just have a lot of noise.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 05:29 PM
  #37  
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yea I was thinking that... it wa making some noises before. I'll have to mention it to whomever buys it.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 05:43 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by deagle50ae
yay. I get to buy a new car tonight.
old cars break too often. lol
Don't blame the car. Blame yourself.
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