deagle50ae

drove to work today like I always do... nothing unusual.

so.. I went out to run and get some coffee from down the road and.... nothin.

Car wont go into gear clutch and new longblock only have 15k

Acts the same with the clutch in and out. just wont slide into gear. doesnt grind... just wont move far enough. I've noticed lately when it's cold it's been grinding very mildly when going into gear and from time to time getting into 1st has been tough.

So I checked my clutch fluid... it's below the MIN line which is wierd because I just topped off all my fluids three weeks ago. must be a leak somewhere.

So... what are the odds I can just throw some fluid in and have it work?

Thank god for the AAA I got for christmas.

Icemark

sounds more like you have a bad slave or master, fix those first

oakback

Will it go into gears when sitting still with the car off?

deagle50ae

Damn. I didnt try that (it's ****** cold out)

I WAS in gear when I got in. I always throw it in 1st when I park it because my handbrake is weak. but I pull it out of gear before I start it.

deagle50ae

quickie before I head off to break.
What kind of clutch fluid do I need? (I dont even know if there are any different 'kinds', I've never needed it before.)

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Description is not sufficient. Does the clutch feel "heavier" then normal? Brake fluid is clutch fluid...

deagle50ae

The clutch feel pretty normal. not different enough for me to notice off hand.

Hydrolic clutch fluid is the SAME as brak fluid?

SureShot

Yes clutch & brake fluid are the same.
They should be clear as beer.
If they look dark brown or black, you need to bleed your hydraulics.

umi415

Yes

cool_as_crap

yeah ive had that problem a couple times every once in a while. if you turn off the car is should go into gear, and shift fine.

deagle50ae

cool. thanks guys.
I'll let ya know what's up. I'm obviously just going to full the resivoir first, then see where it leaves me.

from what I saw, the fluid in it was murky so if I can get my *** home it'll be the first thing on my list.

umi415

this happened to me last week, my slave went while driving to see my gf. I couldn't put it in gear when the car was on and at a stop. I had to start it in gear and rev match to go up and down gears ( don't know if this damages the trany but it was the only way to get home. I replaced both the master and the slave clutch cylinders.

deagle50ae

just to make sure I'm checking the right fluid... the resivoir is the little square white bottle with a black cap on the D-side of the engine bay kind of center... right?

deagle50ae

actually.... I think I was looking at the wrong reservoir. the only pics I can find show it as skinny and cylindrical.
can somebody confirm this?

I'll be on break in 6 minutes.

deagle50ae

alrighty. yep I was dumb. I'm full on hydrolic fluid.

which means hydrolic failure if the most likely cause

looks like I'm going to be looking for a rebuild kit locally.

thanks for your input everybody.

deagle50ae

****.
I can't find a master rebuild kit locally. anybody that ahs a listing for it has at least a 6 day wait...

so I hope it's the slave giving me ****. lol

any way to test?
or could I just take apart the master and clean it well and hope for the best?

umi415

Just buy both complete units and save your time, they are not expensive. If you are mechanicaly inclined do it yourself. If not the labor is problaby more expensive than the parts in this case

deagle50ae

O I am deffinitely doing it myself. the problem is that nobody local has the kit for rebuilding OR the complete units.

two rebuild kits = $20-$30

both complete units = $100-$130

I'd much rather spend a couple hours rebuilding than buying new units.

Mechanic

you are going to wait anyway... ebay my friend
they sell full rebuilt slave and master for like 60 bucks the last time i checked.. (a while ago LOL)

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

could it be the fork stuck or throwout bearing jammed...?

maybe the bolts from the pressure plate to the flywheel rattled loose....

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

you should be able to get at Everything UP Top.the bolts for the Slave are 12mm.one of them will have a "Condenser" like Piece On it...It is wired and clips to the Firewall.You should also be able to Take the line and master off too(connected together).I Did my Clutch,and Also did a "parting" of a car..I Took the hydraulic System Off as ONE unit..I kept It "loaded" (had the fluid in and kept in 'ready for action"..just Don't Squeeze it!)..anyhow some "useless" info for ya.

deagle50ae

lol. No info is useless when it comes to a car I am not yet acquainted with under the hood.

anyways. I picked up a slave rebuild kit. I'm going to rebuild that and dismantle/clean the master and check for bad seals. there's an advanced auto store 15miles from me that can haev the master rebuild kit monday.

thanks for your help all, I'll update when appropriate.

deagle50ae

I have the slave rebuilt. still can't get parts for the master yet...

I think something bigger is wrong here though... my clutch fluid (dot3 obviously) is black as coffee in the reservoir and it was like that inside the slave as well. so i guess I will be bleeding the hydrolics as well when my dad is back from wherever he is.

also, when I push the slave's piston in by hand, it doesnt come back out under the springs pressure. I tried using a little bit of brake fluid as a lubricant but it still doesnt actuate properly. Should it be pushed out under the power of the spring?

Can I use a wire brush inside of it to clean up the walls really well?

deagle50ae

Oh... and for anybody thinking of rebuilding their slave unit... do it.
I pulled it out and rebuilt with new parts in under 20 minutes... and that includes pushing my car up my driveway into the garage.

deagle50ae

Here's what the fluid looks like.
I seriously think it's oil.
there's no way I'm tasting it though. brake fluid is some seriously nasty ****.