sunshine

iTrader: (3)

Guys I need your help. I just was finishing up an intake job - All new vac lines, gaskets, PR sleeves...and I went to start it up, but it will not hold idle.

The first time I went to start her, she flooded. So I did the fuse trick to unflood it. I checked the plugs and they seemed OK.

After, it started up, but it will not hold idle. If I hold the accelerator down, I can keep it running and its running smooth above 2500 rpm...but if I gently try to let the pedal go, it just dies right away. I tried to hold it steady at 1500 rpm and it starts to shake very violently.
It wont even do the cold start up procedure...(go to 3000rpm, then 1500, then idle) It just starts up and dies.

Changed the oil.
Checked TPS. (I warmed it up by holding down pedal)
Checked O2, AFM, BAC, Solenoids, ACV connections.
Checked comp for error codes - None.
Injectors professionaly cleaned.

Please Help me...I am completely out of ideas. This car is my daily driver, and I need it back as soon as possible.
Thanks

rxse7en

Sounds like an intake leak after the AFM. I guess since your eplaced sleeves it's an NA. Check the intake snorkel. Make sure it's tightly connected and not cracked after working on the intake. You remembered all of your gaskets? GL.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I think air is getting in unmetered somewhere...but where? I took my time putting it all back together very carefully and tourqued all the manifolds down to about 24 ft/lb. (thats what it says in the Hayes manual). The main gasket that goes to the engine is metal (from mazda, its three layers of metal 'riveted' together). The other two mani gaskets are paper. I also used new BAC gasket and ACV gasket.

For it to die like that after it rev's up, I must be a substantial leak...But where is it coming from???

wpgrexx

i just did the same procedure you did and had the same results when i restarted. Check everywhere for a vacuum leak. From my experiences, if you have a leak on the snorkel behind the afm it won't even catch to run, it will turn but never catch. Mine flooded like the first 10 times i started it, now i have to warm her up for a good 5 min before it will hold idle. Did you do a tb mod? if so check all the idle settings and cable tension.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

I did not do the TB mod. Everything is stock exceopt the cone filter. I cant even lean over the engine to listen to it b/c it wont ldle.

can the cable tension cause my problem if I dint modify it in any way. I just removed it and put it back.

ColumbusTurboTwo

iTrader: (7)

i'm having this exact same problem sometimes it'll hold the idle for a split second then die. i'm baffled also.

blu_gxl

sunshine, your problem is an intake leak i haven't had my lower off but the first 2 times i had the upper off it did the same thing. what you need to do is pull it back off and resettle it when you put on the upper move the 2 hard lines that go to your block away from the manifold. it has to slide on there and sit easily or you will have a leak. all you can do trial and error unless you've done it a few times then it won't take as many times to get it right this is all you can do since in my experiences you can't find it with starter fluid since it's not that large of a leak. sorry so long

james

blu_gxl

columbus, i need more detail to help you when does it do this when first started on a cold engine??
or all the time??

ColumbusTurboTwo

iTrader: (7)

its mostly all the time, when i get gas it won't start usually i think its just getting flooded, and the battery is being gay(its getting tested as we speak) as far at the idle problem

yesterday after running hot for a while it'll idle at 1400-1k rpm idles fine
but then after driving it some more sometimes it'll want to die. i have to keep my foot on the gas


last night it didn't want to idle at all, seems to be kind of rough under 1500 rpm, keep in mind this car is street ported.

but all in all the car won't hold idle i've been told many times its an intake leak somewhere, but the starter fluid test showed no leaks, i guess i'm just going to zip tie all the vaccuum lines and start from there.

another reason to make me believe its a vaccuum leak is that i'm not boosting all the way.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

The Tourque # I mentioned above...is that the correct number? (about 24 ft/lb.) Thats what I did, 24 on all the screws and bolts on all the mani's ... so how can there be a leak?

89turbo2dutch

Has anyone tried spraying carb cleaner or ether around the intake manifold and hoses to identify a leak?? Checking your TPS adjustment??

Mike

Call me Berto!

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

Thats what everyone says to do, either carb cleaner or starter fluid. TPS is adjusted.

Its hard to just listen to it, not to mention spray anything if it dies as soon as you take your foot off the pedal.

89turbo2dutch

If the carb/ether hits a vacuum leak the engine will rev up. Not hard to notice.

It's a bitch, but ya have to check all the hoses. They may look good, but all it takes is a pin hole.

Mike

ka8legend

Sunshine this may seem obvious but it can be elusive but did you check that fat(~5/8") vac hose going to the upper intake chamber(on the oil filter side, just above the 4mm inlet hose for the VDI); assuming you have an S5.

NixxoN

Sunshine, I'm not sure if this is wise, but it's what I did when I wanted to find out where my exhaust leak exactly was, I took something long, I actually used a peice of my trim because I had my headliner torn apart at the time, and put it on the pedal, and then jammed it up against my seat, and move my seat forward till it was at the right RPM. This may let you check out under your hood while you make it idle faster.

ColumbusTurboTwo

iTrader: (7)

i think i lost your "new" number check your pm's i sent you mine, call me asap i'm prolly going to lukes tonight to work on the beast.

blu_gxl

in my experiences the starter fluid meathod has not worked for me. sunshine i'd take the advise from nixxion that will at least help you get it to idle or run while you take a look at the manifolds. if you can try using either starter fluid meathod i haven't had luck with it or use a stethescope or piece of tubeing held to your ear. my guess is it's right at where the upper and lower manifolds meet it's realy a bi&ch to get it right there.

columbus, hmm still not sure about yours but seems like you already have help with that. are you able to change the idle with the idle stop screw?? also have you checked your tps lately??

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

OK...I propped the gas pedal so that it could run around 2000rpm, and went to listen to the engine. There is a cery loud sucking sound coming from the bottom part of the engine - so I think the lower mani is not sitting well. The lower gasket is made out of three sheets of thin metal sandwiched together by two rivets. Is this a good gasket? I tourqed it down to 24 ft/lb. Why did it not seat well? Should I use silicone sealant in conjunction with the gasket to get a better seal?

vosko

iTrader: (4)

a little silicone never hurt anything..... if you need any help let me know!

M5150

haha same thing happened to me, it wasnt seated well, turned out to be a little piece of gasket

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

How do I apply the silicone?
Does it go on both surfaces and the gasket in between?
What kind should I buy?