ok here's the story: the car was running for like a week once i bought it but it was getting harder and harder to start and then it died while i was in a wide turn and i started it up and went to drive it died again. now it wont start without pulling the plugs...the car also floods every time we shut the engine off . . .The car has no emissions system at all. here is what the car has done to it in the engine:
Complete Engine Rebuilt
Streetport on intake and exhaust ports
2 550cc and 2 720cc injectors
ACT Clutch and PP
R-Teck 1.7 ECU upgrade
hardened stationary gears
New engine and tranny mounts
Racing beat full exhaust..
relocated battery (optima yellow top)
Blitz blow off valve
Koyo Aluminum radiator
FD alternator with rotor dual pulley
S5 89-91 stereo and shifter surround (rubber type)
HKS Air Filter
3" Custom TID
-the car also has a piggy back control unit and im not sure what type of unit this is. could this be a problem or am i having other issues?

 

I will try this first:
*measure the coils resistance to know if they are good
*check for a leaking injector (leaking gas into the intake manifold
*if your engine has distributor cap and rotor, check it
*is electronic ignition, check the pick up coil inside the distributor
*check fuel pressure to be correct
*check spark plug cables ohms
*check the flowmeter, Throtle Position Sensor, Coolant Sensor, Air Temp. Sensor, Map Sensor.
*Then check the ECU for codes.
*Also check what is the function of the piggyback to discard that one is the suspect. Also a bad ECU can cause problems. Is important to check the ground connections at the battery, chassis, ECU, Engine. Bad ground make a lot of probles.

 

I have an idea. How about you check the codes FIRST? Why check everything the ECU already does?

Its a S4 so it has a CAS, no distributer.


Other then that. Couldn't tell ya besides try to find out what the piggy back is doing or set to do. If possible, disconnect it and see how the engine runs.

 

Some of the european S4's had a distributor.

 

those are some good ideas check those out

 

I think that the ECU is a OBD1. Is so, you need to locate the test port. Then you need to know what connectors you need to jump. Then, you put the ignition switch and see the check engine light blinking. The blinking is the code. For examne: one blink, pause, four blink that means code 14. I think that you need to contact someone or some boock that told you how to jump the wires.

 

I think that the ECU is a OBD1. Is so, you need to locate the test port. Then you need to know what connectors you need to jump. Then, you put the ignition switch and see the check engine light blinking. The blinking is the code. For examne: one blink, pause, four blink that means code 14. I think that you need to contact someone or some boock that told you how to jump the wires.

 

would i have to look up the code or?