Help tracing Trailing coil wiring..
#1
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Help tracing Trailing coil wiring..
I hope that Satch sees this,as he Knows all,(mighty Satch rocks!!!.lol!)
anyways, I am trying to figure why I get Trailing coil failure on my Rtek,so I back probed the wires on the connector to the ECU connector, (wiring diagrams at Foxed.ca) and I get NOTHING>.what???
I am probing F-31 and F-35 .I get Zilch.Zero ..no movement on the Ohm Meter.
Am I doing this Right?
Help!!!!
thanks.STYX.
anyways, I am trying to figure why I get Trailing coil failure on my Rtek,so I back probed the wires on the connector to the ECU connector, (wiring diagrams at Foxed.ca) and I get NOTHING>.what???
I am probing F-31 and F-35 .I get Zilch.Zero ..no movement on the Ohm Meter.
Am I doing this Right?
Help!!!!
thanks.STYX.
#3
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Might be a dumb question, but have you checked for continuity between F-31 and F-35? 20+ year old wiring would be the first thing I'd suspect in this case. The Trailing Signal wires are a straight line between the two connectors.
On F-31, it is Pins X, U and M which correspond to the F-35 connector's Blue/Yellow, Brown/Yellow and Blue/Red wires respectively. The Yellow/Blue wire on F-35 is the tachometer signal wire. Set the multimeter to ohms and put one probe in the F-31 ECU connector, then repeat for the F-35 Trailing Coil Connector. F-35 is a sealed connector, so disconnect the trailing coil and go from the front. Might as well go from the front on F-31 too, so there's no issue about getting it on the correct pin
If you have continuity between the connectors (you'll see a resistance reading), then your trailing coil is kaput or the Rtek isn't working properly. If it shows no response (infinite resistance), your wiring has a break in it. Lemme know if you need a new trailing coil, I'll hook you up on the cheap
On F-31, it is Pins X, U and M which correspond to the F-35 connector's Blue/Yellow, Brown/Yellow and Blue/Red wires respectively. The Yellow/Blue wire on F-35 is the tachometer signal wire. Set the multimeter to ohms and put one probe in the F-31 ECU connector, then repeat for the F-35 Trailing Coil Connector. F-35 is a sealed connector, so disconnect the trailing coil and go from the front. Might as well go from the front on F-31 too, so there's no issue about getting it on the correct pin
If you have continuity between the connectors (you'll see a resistance reading), then your trailing coil is kaput or the Rtek isn't working properly. If it shows no response (infinite resistance), your wiring has a break in it. Lemme know if you need a new trailing coil, I'll hook you up on the cheap
#4
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Ok..here is what I did before posting.
Continuity test to see if the wiring was the Culprit.
I made a 10 foot alligator clipped Test lead!(tested with ohm meter so the lead is good)
On F35 I placed a Pin inside the connector the connector(where it would connect: connector to connector) and then another pin at F31 connector.So connect the pin(connector) to one alligator clip,the other to a Lead,and take a reading .Nothing.
I tried getting readings from X,U,and M,and I get zilch..Key on.(just in case the Ignition needed to be on for the readings to be taken.hence no open circuit)/ ..I get nothing at all 3.
.NOW,It seems real strange that all 3 wires would be Fubarred..I haven't done any 'aftermarket" wiring around the Ecu,the trailing coil,etc,,so it is "weird".
Continuity test to see if the wiring was the Culprit.
I made a 10 foot alligator clipped Test lead!(tested with ohm meter so the lead is good)
On F35 I placed a Pin inside the connector the connector(where it would connect: connector to connector) and then another pin at F31 connector.So connect the pin(connector) to one alligator clip,the other to a Lead,and take a reading .Nothing.
I tried getting readings from X,U,and M,and I get zilch..Key on.(just in case the Ignition needed to be on for the readings to be taken.hence no open circuit)/ ..I get nothing at all 3.
.NOW,It seems real strange that all 3 wires would be Fubarred..I haven't done any 'aftermarket" wiring around the Ecu,the trailing coil,etc,,so it is "weird".
#5
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Pin M is an ouput signal and it would read below 2 volts w/key to on and about 1.3 volts w/engine idling.
Pin X would show 0 volts w/key to on and .8 volts idling. This is also an output signal.
Pin U would show 4.4 volts w/key to on and 2.2 volts while idling. Again, another output signal.
And you might want to try remounting the coil to the fender which might require sanding down the fender where it contacts the coil mount.
Pin X would show 0 volts w/key to on and .8 volts idling. This is also an output signal.
Pin U would show 4.4 volts w/key to on and 2.2 volts while idling. Again, another output signal.
And you might want to try remounting the coil to the fender which might require sanding down the fender where it contacts the coil mount.
#6
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Pin M is an ouput signal and it would read below 2 volts w/key to on and about 1.3 volts w/engine idling.
Pin X would show 0 volts w/key to on and .8 volts idling. This is also an output signal.
Pin U would show 4.4 volts w/key to on and 2.2 volts while idling. Again, another output signal.
And you might want to try remounting the coil to the fender which might require sanding down the fender where it contacts the coil mount.
Pin X would show 0 volts w/key to on and .8 volts idling. This is also an output signal.
Pin U would show 4.4 volts w/key to on and 2.2 volts while idling. Again, another output signal.
And you might want to try remounting the coil to the fender which might require sanding down the fender where it contacts the coil mount.
coil bracketry was cleaned and returned to car.
#7
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It should read those values at the ECU. Also make sure the ground source is a suitable one such as one of the ECU mounting bolts. And pin 1M is actually an "input" signal rather than an output signal. For some reason the ECU pinout list indicates it's an output for Na but input for the turbo which doesn't make sense, but since it's a feedback signal, common sense would dictate it is an input signal.
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