i want to remove the power steering on my 86, and was wondering what should i block off what shouldnt i etc. has anyone done this, i want to keep the rack, but just remove the power steering aspect of it
thanks,
search isnt working so i thought id post

 

im sure it would be the same for any other years power steering, its just that i cant search because the system has some sort of proxy error, so if anyone has a link or a picture of what theyve done itd be much appreciated

 

If it were me....I would just take off the PS belt....that way the whole thing is in tact in case I should want to sell it later. I cannot think of any power gain by taking the whole unit off anyway...first I would put in a couple of ounces of LUCAS Power Steering stop leak and run it for a few days. That is really good stuff for power steering. I have used it in both my 88's as preventions before leaks started and so far no leaks.

 

taking it off gives you more space (for whatever reason) saves a bit of weight and if you get the manule rack, you get a more direct feeling of the road; however investing in a set of barbells is a must, hehe. Basicly, take the power steering unit off, detach the hoses, hold a bucket under the hoses and crank the steering wheel to either extremes of its turn a few times. A lot of fluid will come out, the ground outside of my house found that out. make sure you have a bucket!!! then, get a manule rack/take the hoses off and cap off the holes so no crap gets in the rack. Then take the power steering fuse out so there is no beeping.

 

If you are going to do it, do it properly.

Ditch the power rack and replace it with the manual rack. Rip out the pump, power steering computer, lines, cooler and power steering rack. Install the manual rack to replace it. You will need the inner tie-rod ends and brackets, as well as the rack. Then you'll have to hit an alignment shop.

The power rack with the belt removed or the pump otherwise non-functional is so insanely stiff compared to the perfectly balanced manual rack. Especially when you put on sticky tires. If you are actually concerned about weight, then the manual rack is also lighter.

Seriously, an RX-7 with a manual rack is a joy to drive. An RX-7 with a non-powered power-rack is not.

 

the reason its so stiff is cause your baisicly trying to turn a caped off aircylinder.so if you plug the power rack with the wheels straight, either way you turn it just compresses air in the rack which makes it harder than hell to turn. the hole closest to the firewall on the rack you can plug, the other two (out, and return) put those back on after you get most of the fliud out, cut them so theres about 6in. left from the banjo bolt, put a brass ( T ) on the two lines then run a 2, or 3 inch lead from the third end of the T and put a ( rear end breather out of any truck or buy one fron the store), this way the air cant get traped in your steering rack. another plus is its already lubricated fron the power steering fluid before. then remove the other stuff, fuse, comp., cooler,pump, ect. (mine works good)

 

Wow, sounds like a lot of effort to go through to do something wrong. Seriously, the manual racks are a dime a dozen. Even rebuilt units are usually only about $150 at the local jobber. The power rack has a quicker ratio, which is what makes it harder to turn.

 

thanks im not planning on getting a manual rack, to be hounest i got this rack for the quicker ratio, and because my car has allot of wieght removal, it shouldnt be a problem to turn even with sticky tires. so i just plug the inlet hole (closest to the firewall) and T the other two lines that connect to the pump with a breather?? thanks this should help