rippin_rx7

hey guys i am first time rx7 owner mine is an 1987 rx7 turboII and my car was running great up until today she started to bog out a bit then when i shut it off at tims when i went for a coffee i could not get it to start back up, i had a full tank of gas, oil pressure was normal, engine temp was normal, battery brand new, but it wouldn't turn over only attempt to jsut the starter was going i couldn't even bump start it it would fire up but then shut right off not even a full start up when bump started? any ideas guys? i am thinking fuel pump? it seems to not be getting any fuel from my point of view i could be wrong if anyone can help me email me at rippin_rx7@hotmail.com or pm me asap help me guys please

spitfire7

turn key to on position and check ur fuel line for pressure. u should hear the injectors. pull out sparkplugs and look 4 spark.

baby doll

The fuel pump in a FC only pumps wile cranking or car is fully started.

From the FAQ

buttsjim

If it starts, then quits imediately, it sounds like your mass airflow sensor (MAF) may be faulty. The fuel pump will pump when the switch is in the "start" position, but when you release the key, the MAF takes control of the fuel pump operation. That's why your car would start and die using the switch, but not start at all if you try to push start (I think that's what you said is happening).

Try wiggling the MAF's electrical connector, which is attached to the bottom right (facing the car) side of the air filter housing (assuming a stock air filter assembly). The connector should push in until it clicks and makes a positive engagement.

Michael Smith

if the AFM fuel pump switch goes faulty a way to get home is to short out the green 2 terminal connector near the AFM this can be found in the manual. By shorting this it bypasses the AFM fuel pump switch and the pump runs all the time.

Michael Smith

rippin_rx7

ok guys hers the ipdate the car doesn't turn over at all now not even the slightest shes cranking but won't cacth everything else is normal u don't hear anything turn on at all though like the fuel pump etc when key is on the start position also a bump start makes the car turn on but the engine is only a low low bobble noise then immediately stops i dunno whats going on man i am screwed hep me lol

buttsjim

Well. Rather than try to guess any more quick fixes, I recommend you do some systematic trouble shooting.

If you jumper the green connector that Michael mentioned (it's located at the passenger side strut tower) and turn the switch to "on", you should be able to feel the rubber fuel lines to see if you have fuel flow (you can't necessarily hear the fuel pump pumping).

Pull a leading spark plug wire, ground it, and crank the engine to see if you have spark. Alternatively, you can spray some starter fluid in the intake and see if the motor fires. If you don't have spark, try fiddling with the electrical connector at the leading coil to see if that makes any difference.

Beyond these very basic steps, I think you need to grab a multi-meter and start checking your injectors and sensors (or, better yet, the voltages at the ECU plugs) to see where your problem lies.

Somewhere, there's a thread I started when I had a similar problem, and I'm sure there are many more that you can find through a search.

baby doll

No do not do this. You run an elevated risk of burning out the coil pack. Use a multi meter on the coils and see if the reading is within range per the FSM or Haynes manual.

myexlex

How do you run a risk of burning the coil pack?

VroomVroomVroom

Well, I dont have an answer, but I too have a problem requiring the jumpering of the green fuel pump connector by the RH shock tower, as M.Smith mentions above.
I have an 86 and an 88 N/A, both original. The connector is present in the 86, but missing in the 88!
Does anyone know if they moved the connector, and where to?
Thanks. VVV.

rrx777

try to unflood it cant hurt. pull the fuse that says egi comp wile turning the key hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor for 15 seconds the car wont crank while your doing this. put the egi comp fuse back in then try to crank like normal.

FC3SPORT

It's probably just flooded. This is a first timer here. I recommend unplugging the fuel pump, cranking for awhile, then replugging it in and trying again.

myexlex

the plug is present in the 88, but I think its a yellow wire. Its on the same bundle as the afm.

VroomVroomVroom

Thanks Myexlex;
I'm looking at the 88 manual, and the wiring diagrams indicate that this test connector, designated EM-30 is indeed by the AFM, just under the pressure sensor/idle adjustment pot, BR. & B. wires.
I have followed the harness (after removing the AFM for a better view) and still cannot find anything remotely like a 2-pin connector not connected to anything!
I must conclude that my '88 does not have this feature. It could quite easily have been missed at assembly, as it is only a trouble-shooting feature, not likely looked for by any QC on the line.
Ah well. I'll tap into the AFM wiring for the required connections, and not waste any more time.
I just bought this '88 as a no-start parts car (very rusty underneath). Reasonable compression on all 6 cycles. No fuel or spark, so you can see why I need that connector. Nice to hear it run before I break it up for the drive train to go in my 'good' '86.
Again, thanks for your help, Dave VVV.

iceblue

Specifications
General
Coil resistance 0.2 to 1 ohm
Crank angle sensor resistance
Between terminals G1 and G2 110 to 210ohms
Between terminals Ne1 and Ne2 110 to 210 ohms

Torque specifications
Crank angle sensor locknuts 69.6 to 96 in-lbs

Ignition system
The ignition system includes the ignitions switch, the battery, the crank angle sensor, the leading and trailing side coil/igniters, the primary (low voltage) and secondary (high voltage) wiring circuits, the spark plugs and the spark plug wires.
When working on the ignition system, take the following precautions:
a) If the engine wont start, don’t keep the ignition switch on for more than 10 seconds.
b) Never allow an ignition coil terminal to contact ground. Grounding the ignition coil can damage the igniter and/or the coil itself.
c) Don’t disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
d) Make sure the igniter is properly grounded.

Ignition Check
1 Attach an inductive timing light to each plug wire, one at a time and crank the engine.
A) If the light flashes, voltage is reaching the plugs.
B) If the light does not flash, proceed to the next step.
2 Inspect the spark plug wire(s), and spark plug(s).
3 If the engine still wont start, check the coil/igniter assemblies.

Leading Coil Check
1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.
2 Detach the high tension leads from the coil Note that the leads are marked (white dot on high tension terminal No. 1 and white band on leading high tension lead No. 1) If the leads on your vehicle are not marked, be sure that you mark them to prevent incorrect reassembly.
3 Remove the plastic cover from the primary terminals of the coil.
4 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals of the coil and compare you measurement to the value (specifications listed).
5 If the indicated resistance is not as specified, replace the leading coil.

Trailing Coil Check
1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.
2 Remove the plastic cover from the primary terminal.
3 Detach the high-tension leads; the leads should be marked (a white dot on the N0 .1 high tension lead). If they’re not marked on your vehicle, be sure that you mark hem to insure proper reassembly.
4 Using and ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals and compare your measurements with the value listed in specifications.
5 Repeat this procedure for the other trailing coil.
6 If the indicated resistance of either unit is not within specifications, replace it.

Igniter
1 Testing the igniter assemblies requires special equipment and is therefore beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Take the vehicle to a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop to have the igniters checked.