Okay so, ive got several questions about my FC.

I just got this car and its all stock, 1991 non turbo Rx7.

I want to put a intake on it, but it has this valve on it and i dont know what it is?
and body know what this breather valve thing is? and is it safe to remove?

also.
my car occasionally will limit the rev's at 3000 rpms wile driving.
and then it will go away after driving.
any help?

i plan on drifting this car.
so i bought a 2 way diff.
but its from a turbo, and i was told that the turbo has a bigger final gear than the Non turbo. Is it possible to swap final gears from the not turbo on to the 2way diff and put the diff in the non turbo housing?


Thanks for the help.
-Nick

 

the 3k idle is the warmup system. at a cold start it will idle at ~3k for 17 sec. thanxs to the AWS, then drops to ~1500,(wich is the throttle landing on a cam that activates with coolant temp[fast idle cam and roller]) so when the car warms up(~1/3way up on stock coolant temp guage) the cam and throttle seperate allowing the throttle tosettle down to ~750.
as for the valve, idk can you take a pic of your engine bay?
and drifting takes the cake on the most stupid form of motorsports that has ever spawned, they do have cool cars some of the time and if wasnt for that it would be lamer than nascar.

 

haha.
i know about the warm up.
im saying while driving it wont let the rpms go past 3000. its like a fuel cut.

and dont be hating on drifting because you cant do it.

this is my first mazda/rotary platform to build on...thats why im asking these questions.

 

Read the FAQ please.

The advance warm up system causes the car to rev to 3000 rpm upon startup to warm up the precats, start the car in gear and clutch held in if you dont want it to do this.

You will not see any power gains by adding an aftermarket intake, a drop in filter will do just fine. Unsure what breather your are referring to, post a pic.

The diff you bought is only compatible with a turbo rear end, which means you need to get a turbo diff, axles and have a custom driveshaft made to mate to your na tranny at the very least. I recommend you sell the diff and buy a miata lsd to install in your na rear end.

 

dude i know about the freaking warm up period!
and i read the FAQ crap.

Im talking about while driving...after ive been driving it will fuel cut at 3000 rpms.

and im pretty sure there is a way to swap final gears.
and yes i know all about the diff being different.

i want to know if there is an "easy" way to swap final gears.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...55#post5131155

Is that more like what you are describing? Is the ECU throwing a check engine light? It sounds like either the dreaded 3800 rpm hesitation or the ECU is in limp mode.

Is this breather valve you refer to located just under the airbox and have an electrical harness running to it? If so, that is the AFM and is non-removable with a stock ECU. Clamp a cone filter on to that if you wish to rid yourself of the stock airbox. Unless properly shielded with a cold airbox however, you have now just made a hot air intake, as the stock intake takes its air from outside the engine bay.

 

I would say it's jumping in and out of limp mode. It could be a groundin problem or it could be your TPS not sure so dont go freaking out cause it could be some thing else throwin it into Limp mode. No ideal about on the S5s about the valve I have a S4 myself and never seen it post a pic of it. A Word of wisdom instead of always typin Non Turbo Just say N/A everybody will know what you meen.

 

Oh yeah and if your goin to drift it make sure you get the DTSS eliminators so you wont have the snap back when your in mid-drift trust me if sucks and people will look at you like a loser. so needless to say learn your car and the limits to it so you don't tear up your 7!!!

 

yeah sounds kinda like it.
ill be sure to check the grounds.
...at first i wasnt sure if it was the fuel pump or not. idk. just a thought.

and yeah ill be sure to do the DTSS ****.
i wasnt sure if it was going to be that big of a deal, but i guess if its recommended, then ill do it, besides the bushings kit to delete it, isnt to expensive.

 

+1 rpm issues both sound like electrical problems, such as a bad ECU or other ground.

A drop in filter might add 1-2 HP. A cone filter will make you lose about 3-4 HP if you don't put a box around it and direct colder outside air to that box. Then you might get 2-3 HP. A far better place to start for power is the cat via a performance cat or, for racing, eliminating it with a downpipe + presilencer. Do keep the air pump even if you eliminate the cat, for the 6 port induction (search for more information). Second thing to get is mufflers. Though for drifting the suspension is a better place to start than horsepower.

DTSS is real nice for holding road traction by causing toe changes on curves without increasing tire wear on straights. But not so hot if you want to lose grip in a controlled fashion and the DTSS starts making the tail move unpredictably. Most people don't understand it but if yours tests perfect and you find someone who wants a working DTSS you may want to swap in junkyard hubs and eliminate the (possibly failing) DTSS on the junkyard hubs. I know I wish I could find such a seller; right now the only option for a failed DTSS are eliminating it or paying $600 ($1200?) to a dealer.

 

You want DTSS??? I still have mine in I was goin to take them out around 7 stock let me know I'm in Corona...