okay so i have an 86 n/a. it makes me want to kick babies in front of speeding semis on the freeway. it floods all the time. almost everytime i shut the car off it floods. ive been told to get my injectors cleaned and check the compression. although idk where to go or how to begin with checking/fixing compression. also my bro who knows a bit about cars (just not rotary engines) says he can tell my car is running rich (when it is running) how do i fix this. i had a friend who owned an rx7 and he showed me a lil thing next to the intake that supposedly adjust running rich and lean but idk if this is true or which way to turn the damn thing to get it to run a lil more lean. and sorry for my long list of problems but also i read that these run two diff sizes of spark plugs outta a repair book i bought. but idk where the bigger ones are supposed to go or which coils are supposed to be hooked up to them. so any help on any of my problems is very greatly appreciated. anything to help fix my car a lil is going to save ppls lives lol.
thanks,
ryne

 

http://injector-rehab.com/index.htm

I had a similar problem in my 88' vert and I was totally new to the rotary, they weren't hard at all to remove, and the link posted had a quick turnaround and were very helpful the car runs much better after they were cleaned.

 

Leaky injectors will do that. You can get new ones, or have the old ones cleaned and rebuilt. Witch Hunter is a popular place where many people here on the forum send them. I found a local shop to do it and they did a great job. As far as the compression goes, if its low it will be hard to start and flood a lot. There are band aid fixes, but its only temporary.

Compression checks are relatively easy.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/compression_test.htm

some people do it differently, but thats basically the way to do it.

Leading are the Lower plugs and the Trailing plugs are the Top. LL and TT. thats how i remember it.

 

winners. you guys could have possibly just saved some babies. so ill get the injectors cleaned first. sounds like a good place to start. seeing as i have to do the fuse pull thing and i just burnt out and replaced my starter. thanks for the help (:

 

The screw by the intake is the "variable resistor" which allows for the adjustment of the air fuel ratio while the car is idling. Turning the screw clockwise makes it more rich and turning the opposite way makes it more lean. The service manual shows how to set this screw properly and it's found in the emissions section of the FSM.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf

 

okay so in there it says to connect a jumper wire to the terminals of initial set coupler. idk what the hell this means at all. lol if u couldnt tell i dont know much about anything lol

 

Do a compression test BEFORE you send your injectors out.

 

There are a couple of plugs which are not connected to anything just dangling between the battery and the leading coil (the area just behind the driver side headlight). Focus on the smaller plug with two wires. Take a small piece of wire bared at both ends and stuff each end into the two spots of the plug in a "U" shaped form. Make sure the engine is fully warmed up though before making adjustments to the engine performance.

 

Witch Hunter is in Bothell, since your post said WA you can literaly drive them down there.

check in the NW forum to see if anyone near you will do a proper compression check for you. The Dealerships used to to them but call and find out.

Even if the injectors are perfect you can still have flooding issues. I have had tons with my 87 turbo. Even after a rebuild i had flooding issues. The shop that did it had to put a fuel cut out switch in for me. The only thing that fixed it is the Rtek 2.0.

Get the factory service manual, check the faq, it will give you perfect instructions on which plug to jumper and how to set your idle.

Personaly though, I say go the genocide route.

 

Okay so can I just use like a paper clip for the jumper wire? And what exactly does this do. Like what's the point?

 

You could use a paper clip. Jumpering the coupler helps to reduce the ability of the BAC to affect the idle when it is being adjusted. If you try to adjust the idling level of the engine w/o the coupler jumpered then the BAC will try to offset any changes you try to make. It's called going around in circles.

 

Okay sweet thank u. Thanks for all the help everyone. (:

 

Definately do a compression check first. You can throw parts at it all day, but if it a seal has let go you'll be wasting time & money that could go towards a rebuild and/or swap.

 

have your injectors rebuilt, i will put money on that one of them are not closing completly.

My TII has shitty shitty compresion (low but even on all faces), and i ran it for a while with 720cc injectors (all four positions) untuned. i never had a flooding problem once i replaced the injectors. At the time my 720s were unnessisary, but i was trying to "upgrade" things as i went to fit my final powergoals.

 

Okay yeah I was gonna have the injectors sent to witch hunter. And there are 4 injectors on an 86 n/a correct? But I can only find the two. And they are red in color which are the 460cc stock injectors right? Where are the other ones and are they the same size? And I've done no performance mods to my car it's all stock so I just need to keep em the same stock sizes right?

 

There are two that are visible because they are *just* under the throttlebody. The other two are beneath that chamber that the two injectors you can see are mounted into.


This is correct. Unless you make some serious (and typically expensive) mods to your machine, the stock injectors should do fine up to around 250 HP - or so I've read here on the forum.