Well coming home from a quick run to the grocery store, I came to a stop sign and began the stopping procedure. Clutch in, braked, and shifted down. On the movement to third I hear a loud "Plink" and thus resulted in my problem.

I can't get it into any gear and the clutch is very very mushy and remains on the floor. I got it towed home by a friend, and here it sits decommissioned until I find the problem. My assumptions are of course the clutch, because I cant get it into any gear, or possibly something internal in the tranny due to the loud "plink"

Any input would be greatly appreciated. What frustrates me the most is the fact that when I finally get my car running perfect, something like this happens.

 

U probably blew ur slave or master cylinder. Try and bleed the clutch and if that does work then take the cylinders apart and look for broken seals. The "tink" was probaby ur clutch slamming down on the flywheel. Which would explain not being able to get it in gear. And the clutch is on there because the hydraulics are not right.

 

Yeah Ill check that in the morning. That was my first hypothesis.. Thanks Ill keep it posted

 

Do what he says. I have the same problem on my Miata. I just bought a brand new slave and master cylinder for $60 shipped on an Ebay store. I think I remember seeing the same deal for Rx-7s at the same store. Search on Ebay.

 

Okay Guys, I went over the complete clutch hydraulics system and everything seems to be in perfect shape. Im getting fluid from the reservoir to the slave, and the slave is fully extending and moving the fork.

But I have no feel to the clutch, its dead and sticks to the floor when pressed and bleeding the clutch didn't fix this problem. When the car is not running, I can get it into gears, but as soon as I start it up, It wont go into any gear.

Im completely lost, now my guess is possibly the release bearing? Or something internally wrong with the transmission. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. Or if this has happened to anybody, please share the remedy.

 

your'e gonna have to split the engine/transmission to see wtf is going on...
aaroncake says you can drop the driveline, unbolt transmission mounts, and slide the tranny back from the block... prob easier than pulling the motor. if the clutch is continually engaged (like if you turn the motor over with the starter with the trans in gear-it moves the car), there are only a few things that it can be. you've already ruled out the slave cylinder/hydraulics, so the tob can be trashed, or something could be wedged between the clutch disc and the flywheel or pressure plate(seems unlikely).
good luck- hope it is simple.
oh. a guy up here in the nw got a good deal on a vert because the center section of the clutch plate separated from the rest of the disc, but I think that that caused a "always in neutral" thing...

 

Almost sounds as if the clutch release fork has popped off it's mount.

 

Hmm i think u might have broken the pressure plate. Because if the slave cylinder pushed the fork all the way in and it sticks. That would have to mean that the pressure plate isnt pushing it back. Do you feel resistance pushing the pedal down? That would probably make a "tink" sound as you described. Pull the tranny off and see whats up. And get a transmission jack. I didnt use one taking it off and it was a bad plan.

 

I do feel slight resistance pushing the clutch in


Allright, It sounds like I gotta get to work....(Keeping fingers crossed)

Thanks guys, Ill let you know whats up.

 

The symtoms tend to conflict.
"Clutch pedal stays on the floor" points to hydraulics.
But you blead the fluid & you say the slave rod moves.
The throwout (release) bearing pushes the slave back to lift the pedal about half way, then the pedal spring lifts it.
That leaves the release bearing or the release arm, or a frozen pressure plate.

 

That little ball fitting that the clutch release fork pivots on could be the problem. I've read of that breaking before (although I don't see why it should). If broken, it would cause the symptoms you describe.

You may be able to check for that by trying to move your release fork up and down, but you would still have to drop your transmission to repair it.

 

It's also possible the release fork snapped, although unlikely, its also possible you snapped off one or both of the fingers at the throw out bearing (Tink). Either way, you need to pull the tranny, really not that hard, and light enough that you don't need a tranny jack. If you've never done something like this, at least get a service manual, it will give you good guidance as to the best way to pull it. I've had mine out a couple of times, now I could pull it in an evening. Probably the worst part of it is pulling the exhaust and tranny crossmember the first time due to rust, use, time in place. You may be money ahead if you just plan on doing the disc and pressure plate and throw out,while you're in there, and upgrade at the same time. Don't forget the Pilot Bearing in the end of the eccentric shaft. This is important and can be a Bi**h to get out. It usually takes a small slide hammer with an inside diameter attachment that spreads out and catches the outside diameter of the race (its a small needle bearing thats gently pressed in). When you are ordering parts, remember to get the nylon stuff for the shifter too. It'll take all the slop out of that. A tranny is not something you want to do everyday, so do it right the first time. Re fill the trans with a good synthetic, I like NEO, but red line or royal purple are all good too.
Good luck!! Its really not that hard to do, and you wonder why the shops get so much!

 

if ur gonna pull the pilot bearing and seal rent the tool from www.rx7.com or ull cry over it.

 

Ok, I decided to just get a new ACT clutch because Im pretty sure that the pressure plate is the problem...

As for the pilot bearing, how much is it to rent the puller?

 

Ya i thought that was the problem. Have u pulled the tranny yet??

 

Not yet, but I talked to my boss about it and he is the master lol... Thats what he said was the culprit when I described it to him. But even if thats not the problem Im just gonna replace the clutch anyways since its not a small job...

But the pilot bearing is going to be my only problem... It says on www.rx7.com that you can only rent the tool if you buy a clutch from them, so is there any other places where you can rent it?

 

I can atest to how easy it is to do the clutch, but don't forget that if you don't get a new flywheel to get the old one turned. Which will require the humongous 54mm socket to pull the flywheel. It can be a time consuming job, just make sure you get it right the first time around, you're already experiencing the joys of tranny troubleshooting, not something you'd like to repeat I'm sure.

As for the bearing puller, I'm not sure how long it will take for RX7.com to ship to you, but any autoparts store (Autozone, Pepboys, O'Reilly's) should have the tool on hand to loan you. Between the FSM and some of the posts on here you shouldn't have any problems.

BTW, good choice on the ACT, I've been thrilled with mine since I installed it.

 

autozone pepboys etc should have one as a free rental

 

Yea, I had the same problem with the mushy clutch pedal. This was during driving. I was shifting from first to second, and then the clutch would stay down, and I would have to manually stick my toe under it and pop it back up, then shift to third or whatever. THis happened a couple of times. The actual problem came to the point where I was at the light right before an overpass, and I tried to shift into first, but there was no response... I could freely move the shifter into each gear position, but the clutch did not engage.. and no response from either .. so now my car's sitting outside my house and I'm trying to find the source of the problem.

 

if i'm a beginner at this, how should i approach this problem?

 

Yours is a different problem then being discussed in this thread.

First, make sure your hydraulics are in good shape. Bleed the clutch, and CAREFULLY inspect the rubber line for leaks.

If those check out, then the next thing to do is remove the transmission and examine the clutch assembly itself. And since you have the transmission removed, replace the clutch assembly.

If you must take it to a shop, there shouldn't be more then 1 hours labour in checking the hydraulics. For a clutch job, 2 hours is a good estimate assuming no problems like rusted exhaust fasteners.

 

well,
there is one way u can get it out. But it sure is easier with the tool. Not to mention the 2 1'8 in nut u have to tourque to 300ft/lbs And you need an impact gun to get it off unless u have a hugeass wrench.

But if u can find a socket that fits just inside the pilot bearing. you can put grease in the hole and stick the socket in and tap it with a hammer and sometimes the pressure form the grease will pop it out. But id get the tool.
Why dont u want a clutch from rx7.com? price?

oh, and dont take it to a shop. Its way worth the money to aquire the tools instead of paying for labor, And the experience from doing it yourself

 

One other small piece of advice. Yes get the flywheel turned unless you simply can't get the right tools to remove it. Ya, I bought the huge *** socket, also the the flywheel stop (keeps the flywheel from turning), and guess what, try to find a 300 ft/lb torque wrench, ya, I did, actually a torque increaser--diesel guys know what I'm talking about--now the point of this. If you decide to go to this point, and a complete well done clutch job says you will----MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT THE GUY THAT TURNS YOUR FLYWHELL IS TURNING IT ON A FLYWHEEL LATHE, AND NOT A BRAKE LATHE, IT HAPPENED TO ME!!! AND ONCE THE FLYWHELL IS TURNED OUT OF TRUE, IT IS VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO BRING IT BACK IN TO THE TOLERANCES NEEDED FOR A 9K RPM MACHINE--CONSIDER YOURSELF WARNED!
If you don't have the flywheel turned, at least skuff it up good with a course sand cloth and sanding block--not just your hand , so you maintain a flat surface, wipe it down good with a brake cleaner or degreaser too.

Not trying to scare, just don't want to see someone get screwed like I did.

Good Luck

 

hahaha that sucks. I was talking to the guy at the machine shop and he was telling me about the jackasses that turn it on a brake disc lathe.

just get brake cleaner and spray the flywheel surface and the pressure plate. And then LIGHTY sand the clutch disk to make sure ALL grease is gone. It will last alot longer.