Hey Guys, I just got a new engine in the 87TII and we can't get it to turn over. It cranks and fuel is coming out but it won't turn... the leading and trailing plugs/wires are in the right place and such... any suggestions are welcome.

Aaron

 

Very confusing post - if it cranks it's turning over in my world! Do you mean it appears to be seized which is impossible with a rex? or do you mean it won't fire which is a common problem and a whole other kettle of fish.

 

Yes..... won't fire....... my bad..... necesito ayuda!!!!!!!!

Aaron

 

Is your air flow meter plugged in, and if so, is it nice and snug with the turbo inlet duct? Are all of the underhood fuses ok? Is the timing set properly?

 

yes make sure the TID is tight on the turbo housing
I've had mine loose and the car wouldn't start

make sure the fuel injector resister is pluged in
a big plug infront of the shock tower on the pass side

 

Are the plugs firing? Tomorrow you should go out there and check everything...I mean, every vac line, every hose, every cable to make sure it's all snug and in the correct place.

Oh...make sure there's coolant and oil in the thing too! :p
If you get it running tomorrow, bring it by my store. I work from 2-7 and I wanna see it. Call me at 451-9824

Tata.

 

OK so it won't fire - probably flooded - either tow it or if you have a handy hill push it and pop the clutch in second gear.

 

Need fuel, compression, and spark for the engine to run.
Lets assume it has compression since its new.
you said its definately getting fuel?
Then you must have an electrical problem. Bad coils or plug wires or something like that. Timing. Does it try to start or just spin?

 

Yeah.... engine is getting too much fuel.... either shitty gas regulator or injectors..... dammit... How can I tell??? I was sitting the cranking the engine and fuel was coming out the exhaust... so i took the wires off and check for spark which there was plenty of. So, i decided the friggin thing was prly flooding... i took the plugs out and cranked it and blew out an ***-load off fuel. I then put the plugs back on and tried to turn it on again to no avail. This time I disconnected the injector relay (located near the steering colum in the dash) and cranked for a few.... after a few seconds of cranking the engine fired and ran for about 3 seconds then died when the fuel in the engine ran out. When I plugged the relay back in and cranked the engine, it turned over and ran for about 3 seconds until it flooded.... so.... hence y it is prly my injectors or regulator. What kind of injectors should i put in if that turns out to the be case?? Might as well upgrade while im doing it. I have a street port on a 13b turbo and will soon have an hks megaflow intake and a full 3" apexi exhaust...

Aaron

 

Im guessing by new you mean rebuilt engine. Rebuilds are sometimes low on compression until they are broken in, which can cause flooding. You need to build its compression enough to start it. Try putting a bit of oil or transmission fluid int he lower plug holes to build ocmpression. While this is in there, it cannot flood. IT will smoke bad. IF this starts it, then Id suggest putting a fuel pump cot off switch inline with the fuel power supply, so that you can keep it from flooding when you shut the car down.

 

Highly unlikely that the regulator is the problem. Sounds like a bad injector possibly. Did you put the same year engine back in the car? Did you reuse the stock injectors? If so did you do a resistance check on them?
dave

 

Same year engine.... same injectors..... no test
If injectors are the problem, what replacements should I get?

Aaron

 

Aaron,
One way to check the injectors for sure is to pull the intake off, pull the primary fuel rail and the primary injectors. Hold on to them, grab a couple of rags and point them at the rags while someone turns the engine over. If they are working they will spray fuel all over the place. It is a sure fire way to find out. Just be ready to catch the fuel and hold onto the injectors in the rail. If they pop out under pressure you are going to have a river of fuel. This shouldn't be too dangerous unless you are smoking at the time, because your car can't be hot, cause it won't start! LOL.
Just kiddin.
As to what replacements? I went stock, ask the other guys for upgrade ideas.
Hope this helps.
hanman

 

Kevin Landers seems to have it right. You say you have the same injectors and its a fresh rebuild. Fresh rebuilds more often than not have low compression initially. Thats partly due to the end piece of the apex seals being glued on and not being able to float and create full compression until it breaks free. All that gas that has been injected is washing off the oil around the seals compounding your problem. Making a simple fuel cut switch for a couple of bucks can be a great aid or you can do the *pull the ECU fuse, crank the engine, put the fuse back in and start the car routine. With a fuel cut sw, you can turn the fuel off, crank the car, and at the moment it starts, flip the sw to on and the car should keep running. Then again it could be another problem. I had a cut sw on a rebuild and that would'nt start the car. After busting *** for a couple of hours I replaced the perfectly good looking lead plugs and the damn thing ran like a charm. Never can tell sometimes. Just a thought.

 

Umm.... ya dats cool.... Where do I put that thing????

 

First of all I know there is a relay under the dash that you could run a cut switch to but I'd rather do it the following way......On the left hand rear strut tower that houses your speaker, you will find under the carpeting on the rear of it, an electrical plug. That plug you will see, goes directly to your fuel pump. Cut the Blue wire at least three inches from the plug. Now you have two blue wires. Attach some wire that you bought at the store to one blue wire end, and run it to the drivers armrest, at least. Attach that end to one post on the switch that you bought at the store. Now the other end of the blue wire that you cut earlier. Attach a piece of wire to it and run that new wire to the switch at the armrest area. Attach it to the switch. Now you can switch the fuel pump on and off. After the engine starts running ok you can dispense with the switch and splice the cut blue wire back together. You'll want to cover all the bare wires at the blue wire area with tape or something to prevent shorts. You could do something similar with the relay under the dash. I just have a thing about working under dashes. Like to stand up . Just a personal thing. Reason not involved.

 

Ok, so if I check my injectors and they are sprayin right and I do that fuel cut thing, my car *should* run correctly right?? How long will I have to do this fuel cut thing for?? Hopefully the engine will get broken in and it will be fine?

Aaron

 

couple of days. One day. Half a day. Something like that. On the other hand you could have some other problem all together. Its just what I'd do. Others might take another tack. Figured you did all the common things like check for air leaks, swapped in another set of lead plugs, made sure the fuel rail is pressurized etc.

 

Yupperz... I'll just try that fuel cut switch and stuff and get back to you guys with the results

Lataz

Aaron

 

Hey TACO! I noticed in your post you used the word we. So if somebody is helping you, you could station him at the connector on the rear strut tower, and have him connect the plug up just as the car starts. Make him the switch. He's gotta reconnect it right away. No stalling around. Zap. Reconnected. One of those nanno second things.

 

Whats up guys?? I tried that fuel pump thing and it didn't really work. Then I decided to check out the timing. I think the guy that did the timing aligned the wrong notch on the eccentric shaft pully with the pin on the engine. I changed the timing to the different notch and when i tried to fire it turned over once then i killed it. Unfortunately all those times of cranking it before took all the juice out of my battery. It's being charged right now and I'm gonna try and get it to go tomorrow. OH yeah, while the engine was running, it sounded BAD ***.... VERY nice

Aaron

 

Sorry. Did'nt know there was a timing issue. But I'm determined to help somehow. If you read the following post and read C. Ludwig and his description of timing, I think it will help. Especially the part about taking the black cover off the cas and looking at the relationship of the gears to the stationary internal parts of the cas while aligning the timing marks on the bottom of the cas https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=29978