2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Help. My tach stoped working.

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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 01:32 PM
  #1  
junito1's Avatar
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Help. My tach stoped working.

Ok. It used to work fine, But i just finally got done swapping my tranny and now it doesnt work.

WHere does the tach signal come from? i need to fix this.
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 01:33 PM
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THE Mazdabator
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comes from (if i remember right) trailing coil, just a wire i thinks. (blue?)
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 01:47 PM
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From: Florida
in fact i just noticed that my fuel nor temp. is working.
So new question.

Why would cause my gauge cluster to stop working?
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 01:54 PM
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my fc broke
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possibly gauge cluster or they really arent getting a signal. time to diag!
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 02:01 PM
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well i dunno how to diag..
My tranny swap wouldnt have anything to do with this?
It does have 200,000 + miles on the body...
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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^ya i would say it probubly a power wire that has broken or come undone....i know that the guages such as temp and fuel and battery or boost run off of a magnet so you need to check all the connections
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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^ great..

Can i get a hint to where these cables might be?
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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well the i know the tach comes from the trailing coil but im not sure about where all the power would come from
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 07:01 AM
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If you blew your "Meter" fuse your gauges wouldn't work.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 01:17 PM
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its not my meter fuse. I also just now realized my warning lights/clock doesnt work at all either.
Here what i did. I swaped an s4 TII tranny for an s5 TII, I didnt not connect any wires to one of the sensors on the tranny. Buty this shouldnt matter because i looked it up and it says that sensor is for reverse and 5th gear.

So why doesnt my water temp,oil press,stock boost, fuel, and dummy cluster(warning lights/clock) dont work....
someone please HELP!

i am not willing to drive this car without oil press and water temp.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Drivers Shock Tower Ground Block

This is a ground that almost none of the other grounding writeups even mentions. If you look directly at the top of the drivers shock tower near the area where the trailing coil is mounted you should find a white connector seemingly plugged into nowhere on the inner side of the tower. Leading to this connector is a thick bundle of black ground wires. This connection grounds systems throughout the car yet is often overlooked because most don't even know it exists. Repairing this ground is simple can cure multiple issues (particularly with in-dash circuits).

This image shows the ground connector between the trailing coil and shock tower:

To access this ground you will probably want to remove the trailing ignition coil for space. With the trailing coil out of the way, the connector can be disconnected. Now you will see that the connector plugs into a large copper grounding block covered in spade connectors. That block is held onto the shock tower by a single M6x1.0 bolt. Remove that bolt and then remove the ground block.

The block is made of copper and can thus be easily cleaned on a wire wheel mounted on a drill or grinder. Do be careful since more then once I have experienced the wire wheel catching on the block and flinging it towards my face. Generally this is not fun. Once the bock is shiny, set it aside and turn your attention to the car. Chase the threads in the shock tower with a tap and clean the area around the hole down to bare metal with a wire brush.

Contact cleaner is the preferred method of cleaning the harness connection but be aware that some contact cleaners destroy plastic. Make sure to read the instructions. Liberally soak the connectors in cleaner and then blow dry after 30 seconds or so. Repeat this several times in about 10 minutes to try and dissolve all the crud and corrosion. Contact cleaner is nasty stuff so keep it out of your eyes when you blow off the connector. Most of the time the wiring here is in good shape so all that's required is a cleaning. If you have damaged connections then the offending spade will need to be pulled out of the connector, recrimped and reinserted. Lacking the special crimper required, you may simply want to separate the damaged wire from the harness and secure to the ground block mounting bolt with a ring terminal.

Now that everything is clean, you can reassemble the ground. Coat a new stainless steel M6x1.0 bolt liberally with dielectric grease. Cover the copper ground block with the same grease and use the bolt to secure the ground block to the shock tower. Make sure that plenty of grease got between the block and tower. Squeeze grease into every contact on the harness, packing it in tightly with your finger. Reconnect the harness and make sure it is latched on tightly.

Reinstall the trailing coil if you removed it. Remember to use antiseize on the bolts, and dielectric grease on all connectors (especially the plug wire boots).
Try that maybe?
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:36 PM
  #12  
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hmmmm. I will try this tommorow.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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so far no luck. I had a mechanic look at it. It might be the gauge cluster itself.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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OK update. my A/C switch is also bad. It does not kick the a/c fan on so no air blows out of the vents.. OK. Conclution. FOund some positive wires melted together.. Looking into replacing cluster and a/c box thingy. After having a friends fix the wiring.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 04:40 PM
  #15  
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From: Florida
OK. It would be nice if your guys gave me some ideas to resolve this problem.

I have heard the electrician dudes will charge close to 400 and cant guarantee anything.. so i dont plan on playing 400 dollars to quite possibly get my car as i gave it to them..

so... what can you guys come up with to solve this.. i was thinking on buying autometer guages. This is soon to be a track car. SO eventually it should have no wires besides the guages and engine for EMS.

Its so gay that all my guages went out.. im afraid to drive the car.. cause i cant keep an eye on it.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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i got a quick fix for you...go buy after market gauges.... that will fix your water temp and oil pressure problem. than you wont get on here all pissed off asking for help...

its kinda hard to diagnose wiring over the internetz... we cant see the wiring under the car or behind the cluster...

so this is the easiest fix for ya.

/thread!
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 12:10 PM
  #17  
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i probably will have to do that. thanx
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 02:29 PM
  #18  
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OK. HOW many ground go on the tranny bolts?

I know there is one on the starter.. but is there another one? If so where does it go..?
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