Help. My tach stoped working.
#1
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
Thread Starter
Help. My tach stoped working.
Ok. It used to work fine, But i just finally got done swapping my tranny and now it doesnt work.
WHere does the tach signal come from? i need to fix this.
WHere does the tach signal come from? i need to fix this.
#6
Semper
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^ya i would say it probubly a power wire that has broken or come undone....i know that the guages such as temp and fuel and battery or boost run off of a magnet so you need to check all the connections
Trending Topics
#10
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
Thread Starter
its not my meter fuse. I also just now realized my warning lights/clock doesnt work at all either.
Here what i did. I swaped an s4 TII tranny for an s5 TII, I didnt not connect any wires to one of the sensors on the tranny. Buty this shouldnt matter because i looked it up and it says that sensor is for reverse and 5th gear.
So why doesnt my water temp,oil press,stock boost, fuel, and dummy cluster(warning lights/clock) dont work....
someone please HELP!
i am not willing to drive this car without oil press and water temp.
Here what i did. I swaped an s4 TII tranny for an s5 TII, I didnt not connect any wires to one of the sensors on the tranny. Buty this shouldnt matter because i looked it up and it says that sensor is for reverse and 5th gear.
So why doesnt my water temp,oil press,stock boost, fuel, and dummy cluster(warning lights/clock) dont work....
someone please HELP!
i am not willing to drive this car without oil press and water temp.
#11
'89 GTUs
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 953
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Drivers Shock Tower Ground Block
This is a ground that almost none of the other grounding writeups even mentions. If you look directly at the top of the drivers shock tower near the area where the trailing coil is mounted you should find a white connector seemingly plugged into nowhere on the inner side of the tower. Leading to this connector is a thick bundle of black ground wires. This connection grounds systems throughout the car yet is often overlooked because most don't even know it exists. Repairing this ground is simple can cure multiple issues (particularly with in-dash circuits).
This image shows the ground connector between the trailing coil and shock tower:
To access this ground you will probably want to remove the trailing ignition coil for space. With the trailing coil out of the way, the connector can be disconnected. Now you will see that the connector plugs into a large copper grounding block covered in spade connectors. That block is held onto the shock tower by a single M6x1.0 bolt. Remove that bolt and then remove the ground block.
The block is made of copper and can thus be easily cleaned on a wire wheel mounted on a drill or grinder. Do be careful since more then once I have experienced the wire wheel catching on the block and flinging it towards my face. Generally this is not fun. Once the bock is shiny, set it aside and turn your attention to the car. Chase the threads in the shock tower with a tap and clean the area around the hole down to bare metal with a wire brush.
Contact cleaner is the preferred method of cleaning the harness connection but be aware that some contact cleaners destroy plastic. Make sure to read the instructions. Liberally soak the connectors in cleaner and then blow dry after 30 seconds or so. Repeat this several times in about 10 minutes to try and dissolve all the crud and corrosion. Contact cleaner is nasty stuff so keep it out of your eyes when you blow off the connector. Most of the time the wiring here is in good shape so all that's required is a cleaning. If you have damaged connections then the offending spade will need to be pulled out of the connector, recrimped and reinserted. Lacking the special crimper required, you may simply want to separate the damaged wire from the harness and secure to the ground block mounting bolt with a ring terminal.
Now that everything is clean, you can reassemble the ground. Coat a new stainless steel M6x1.0 bolt liberally with dielectric grease. Cover the copper ground block with the same grease and use the bolt to secure the ground block to the shock tower. Make sure that plenty of grease got between the block and tower. Squeeze grease into every contact on the harness, packing it in tightly with your finger. Reconnect the harness and make sure it is latched on tightly.
Reinstall the trailing coil if you removed it. Remember to use antiseize on the bolts, and dielectric grease on all connectors (especially the plug wire boots).
This is a ground that almost none of the other grounding writeups even mentions. If you look directly at the top of the drivers shock tower near the area where the trailing coil is mounted you should find a white connector seemingly plugged into nowhere on the inner side of the tower. Leading to this connector is a thick bundle of black ground wires. This connection grounds systems throughout the car yet is often overlooked because most don't even know it exists. Repairing this ground is simple can cure multiple issues (particularly with in-dash circuits).
This image shows the ground connector between the trailing coil and shock tower:
To access this ground you will probably want to remove the trailing ignition coil for space. With the trailing coil out of the way, the connector can be disconnected. Now you will see that the connector plugs into a large copper grounding block covered in spade connectors. That block is held onto the shock tower by a single M6x1.0 bolt. Remove that bolt and then remove the ground block.
The block is made of copper and can thus be easily cleaned on a wire wheel mounted on a drill or grinder. Do be careful since more then once I have experienced the wire wheel catching on the block and flinging it towards my face. Generally this is not fun. Once the bock is shiny, set it aside and turn your attention to the car. Chase the threads in the shock tower with a tap and clean the area around the hole down to bare metal with a wire brush.
Contact cleaner is the preferred method of cleaning the harness connection but be aware that some contact cleaners destroy plastic. Make sure to read the instructions. Liberally soak the connectors in cleaner and then blow dry after 30 seconds or so. Repeat this several times in about 10 minutes to try and dissolve all the crud and corrosion. Contact cleaner is nasty stuff so keep it out of your eyes when you blow off the connector. Most of the time the wiring here is in good shape so all that's required is a cleaning. If you have damaged connections then the offending spade will need to be pulled out of the connector, recrimped and reinserted. Lacking the special crimper required, you may simply want to separate the damaged wire from the harness and secure to the ground block mounting bolt with a ring terminal.
Now that everything is clean, you can reassemble the ground. Coat a new stainless steel M6x1.0 bolt liberally with dielectric grease. Cover the copper ground block with the same grease and use the bolt to secure the ground block to the shock tower. Make sure that plenty of grease got between the block and tower. Squeeze grease into every contact on the harness, packing it in tightly with your finger. Reconnect the harness and make sure it is latched on tightly.
Reinstall the trailing coil if you removed it. Remember to use antiseize on the bolts, and dielectric grease on all connectors (especially the plug wire boots).
#14
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
Thread Starter
OK update. my A/C switch is also bad. It does not kick the a/c fan on so no air blows out of the vents.. OK. Conclution. FOund some positive wires melted together.. Looking into replacing cluster and a/c box thingy. After having a friends fix the wiring.
#15
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
Thread Starter
OK. It would be nice if your guys gave me some ideas to resolve this problem.
I have heard the electrician dudes will charge close to 400 and cant guarantee anything.. so i dont plan on playing 400 dollars to quite possibly get my car as i gave it to them..
so... what can you guys come up with to solve this.. i was thinking on buying autometer guages. This is soon to be a track car. SO eventually it should have no wires besides the guages and engine for EMS.
Its so gay that all my guages went out.. im afraid to drive the car.. cause i cant keep an eye on it.
I have heard the electrician dudes will charge close to 400 and cant guarantee anything.. so i dont plan on playing 400 dollars to quite possibly get my car as i gave it to them..
so... what can you guys come up with to solve this.. i was thinking on buying autometer guages. This is soon to be a track car. SO eventually it should have no wires besides the guages and engine for EMS.
Its so gay that all my guages went out.. im afraid to drive the car.. cause i cant keep an eye on it.
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Prosser Washington
Posts: 1,248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i got a quick fix for you...go buy after market gauges.... that will fix your water temp and oil pressure problem. than you wont get on here all pissed off asking for help...
its kinda hard to diagnose wiring over the internetz... we cant see the wiring under the car or behind the cluster...
so this is the easiest fix for ya.
/thread!
its kinda hard to diagnose wiring over the internetz... we cant see the wiring under the car or behind the cluster...
so this is the easiest fix for ya.
/thread!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post