help me w/ na rebuild!!!!!!
#1
oodle the noodle
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help me w/ na rebuild!!!!!!
well i managed to pop my motor today, out of nowhere it just **** the bed......so now i have to decide what the hell to build......im gonna keep it na for now, so pretty much i was wondering if anyone has a "key" na setup as far as rotors, apex seals housings ect....i would eventually like to build a turbo kit, but just dont have the money right now. any help would be appreciated, thanks
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use 89-91 rotors and counter weights, turbo II rotor housings and TII intermediate housing with 5th and 6th port sleaves out and use magnum steel to contour your secondary ports. Get Rotary Aviation's video and watch Turintine do it. Put a nice edge on the ports and make them slightly larger too. don't mess with Mazda's ventury too much in the runners. Read Judge Eto's porting school on nopistons.com forum and read everything else you can on the subject before you port. The motor without porting the irons will still run like a rapped ape if you match the intake parts and de-smog it and put on a high flow exhaust. before doing anything go back in time and pick Kenichi Yamamoto's brain and then go talk to everyone at Racing beat and Downing Atlanta. Atleast go to racingbeat's website and read EVERYTHING. Then read EVERYTING on www.Mazdatrix.com and go personally meet Dave Lemon and tell him he is the great one. Then you must collect the Tri-force, kill Gannon, save the princess and get the best sword. after all this, you *might* have the zen required to catch that once spring loaded apex seal corner piece as it sails across your shop at 40 MPH in a very effective attempt at making you dig through the trash and use old stuff to fix your motor cause you can't find the new stuff. THIS DIDN'T HAPPEN TO ME.
#6
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Originally Posted by JamesWade2002
Then you must collect the Tri-force, kill Gannon, save the princess and get the best sword. after all this, you *might* have the zen required to catch that once spring loaded apex seal corner piece as it sails across your shop at 40 MPH in a very effective attempt at making you dig through the trash and use old stuff to fix your motor cause you can't find the new stuff. THIS DIDN'T HAPPEN TO ME.
Also, Pinapple Racing makes 5/6th port sleeves. Are they any good?
#7
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Originally Posted by JamesWade2002
use 89-91 rotors and counter weights, turbo II rotor housings and TII intermediate housing with 5th and 6th port sleaves out and use magnum steel to contour your secondary ports. Get Rotary Aviation's video and watch Turintine do it. Put a nice edge on the ports and make them slightly larger too. don't mess with Mazda's ventury too much in the runners. Read Judge Eto's porting school on nopistons.com forum and read everything else you can on the subject before you port. The motor without porting the irons will still run like a rapped ape if you match the intake parts and de-smog it and put on a high flow exhaust. before doing anything go back in time and pick Kenichi Yamamoto's brain and then go talk to everyone at Racing beat and Downing Atlanta. Atleast go to racingbeat's website and read EVERYTHING. Then read EVERYTING on www.Mazdatrix.com and go personally meet Dave Lemon and tell him he is the great one. Then you must collect the Tri-force, kill Gannon, save the princess and get the best sword. after all this, you *might* have the zen required to catch that once spring loaded apex seal corner piece as it sails across your shop at 40 MPH in a very effective attempt at making you dig through the trash and use old stuff to fix your motor cause you can't find the new stuff. THIS DIDN'T HAPPEN TO ME.
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#8
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Originally Posted by JamesWade2002
use 89-91 rotors and counter weights, turbo II rotor housings and TII intermediate housing with 5th and 6th port sleaves out and use magnum steel to contour your secondary ports. Get Rotary Aviation's video and watch Turintine do it. Put a nice edge on the ports and make them slightly larger too. don't mess with Mazda's ventury too much in the runners. Read Judge Eto's porting school on nopistons.com forum and read everything else you can on the subject before you port. The motor without porting the irons will still run like a rapped ape if you match the intake parts and de-smog it and put on a high flow exhaust. before doing anything go back in time and pick Kenichi Yamamoto's brain and then go talk to everyone at Racing beat and Downing Atlanta. Atleast go to racingbeat's website and read EVERYTHING. Then read EVERYTING on www.Mazdatrix.com and go personally meet Dave Lemon and tell him he is the great one. Then you must collect the Tri-force, kill Gannon, save the princess and get the best sword. after all this, you *might* have the zen required to catch that once spring loaded apex seal corner piece as it sails across your shop at 40 MPH in a very effective attempt at making you dig through the trash and use old stuff to fix your motor cause you can't find the new stuff. THIS DIDN'T HAPPEN TO ME.
#9
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Originally Posted by JamesWade2002
use 89-91 rotors and counter weights, turbo II rotor housings and TII intermediate housing with 5th and 6th port sleaves out and use magnum steel to contour your secondary ports. Get Rotary Aviation's video and watch Turintine do it. Put a nice edge on the ports and make them slightly larger too. don't mess with Mazda's ventury too much in the runners. Read Judge Eto's porting school on nopistons.com forum and read everything else you can on the subject before you port. The motor without porting the irons will still run like a rapped ape if you match the intake parts and de-smog it and put on a high flow exhaust. before doing anything go back in time and pick Kenichi Yamamoto's brain and then go talk to everyone at Racing beat and Downing Atlanta. Atleast go to racingbeat's website and read EVERYTHING. Then read EVERYTING on www.Mazdatrix.com and go personally meet Dave Lemon and tell him he is the great one. Then you must collect the Tri-force, kill Gannon, save the princess and get the best sword. after all this, you *might* have the zen required to catch that once spring loaded apex seal corner piece as it sails across your shop at 40 MPH in a very effective attempt at making you dig through the trash and use old stuff to fix your motor cause you can't find the new stuff. THIS DIDN'T HAPPEN TO ME.
WOW, kudos to you, i'm thinking either you were goofed up when you wrote that or have the coolest imagination ever.
haha damn that was refreshing.
#10
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Originally Posted by JamesWade2002
use 89-91 rotors and counter weights, turbo II rotor housings and TII intermediate housing with 5th and 6th port sleaves out and use magnum steel to contour your secondary ports. Get Rotary Aviation's video and watch Turintine do it. Put a nice edge on the ports and make them slightly larger too. don't mess with Mazda's ventury too much in the runners. Read Judge Eto's porting school on nopistons.com forum and read everything else you can on the subject before you port. The motor without porting the irons will still run like a rapped ape if you match the intake parts and de-smog it and put on a high flow exhaust. before doing anything go back in time and pick Kenichi Yamamoto's brain and then go talk to everyone at Racing beat and Downing Atlanta. Atleast go to racingbeat's website and read EVERYTHING. Then read EVERYTING on www.Mazdatrix.com and go personally meet Dave Lemon and tell him he is the great one. Then you must collect the Tri-force, kill Gannon, save the princess and get the best sword. after all this, you *might* have the zen required to catch that once spring loaded apex seal corner piece as it sails across your shop at 40 MPH in a very effective attempt at making you dig through the trash and use old stuff to fix your motor cause you can't find the new stuff. THIS DIDN'T HAPPEN TO ME.
#11
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Originally Posted by superpimp35
well i managed to pop my motor today, out of nowhere it just **** the bed......so now i have to decide what the hell to build......im gonna keep it na for now, so pretty much i was wondering if anyone has a "key" na setup as far as rotors, apex seals housings ect....i would eventually like to build a turbo kit, but just dont have the money right now. any help would be appreciated, thanks
-TII housings
-TII intermediate plate
-S5 NA rotors w/counterweight
-S4 intake
Use Mazda factory seals all around, or use Atkins apex seals (there are other aftermarket seals available, but Atkins is the only one I have direct experience with). Actually, since Mazda has now moved to 2 piece seals, might as well use Mazda apex seals as well. The break in will be longer, but what the hell...
GET THE VIDEO. There's nothing like seeing it done a few times before attempting it yourself. Also, you NEED TO KNOW that it will take a LONG time to clean and inspect things. Figure at least a month working evenings
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dude you should have seen it! It was like invisible as it shot across the shop. my brain put it all in slow mo and you could hear my long, low, exagerated WOOOOOhhhh, OHHHH, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! The piece turned out to be in the coolant jacket of the rotor housing. building was almost as much of an adventure as mario bros. but that is nothing compared to my friend Moe. He is resurrecting W-body performance (if you can believe that) by putting a GM 3.4L DOHC V6 in his old FWD cutlass. this dude really did see mother brain in the back of his garage one night! It might have been his own reflection though.
#13
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As an experienced builder, I already know you can and cannot do, and why you can or can not do it. I have a question for some of you. Why do people go around talking about building an NA motor with turbo rotorhousings? Is this seen as some sort of upgrade? IS there a rumor floating around that I'm unaware of, that says turbo housings are better coated (same series) or will produce more power?
I'm aware of the exhaust diffuser in the NA, and the lack thereof in the turbo model. This is easily remedied with your existing NA housings...grind them out, or use a torch to cut them out. The latter takes all of 4 minutes, including lighting the torch. True, the cut does leave a bit of a rough edge, but I personally don't think that'll ever hinder anything. After all, most NA guys would say that their previous engine made pretty good power with that big *** diffuser in the way. With 98% of it cut out it will flow a LOT better than it used to..., even with a little bit of a rough edge on the lower end of the port sleeve. You can still grind this rough edge down if you wanted...
So, this negates any advantage you could have by buying turbo housings for use in your engine. The fact of the matter is, year for year, turbo housings are identical to NA housings, OTHER than the diffuser and the coolant passage at the LIM. The only time I can see using turbo housings as being worthwhile is if you're buying brand new ones. IF your original NA ones are useable then just use those.
I'm aware of the exhaust diffuser in the NA, and the lack thereof in the turbo model. This is easily remedied with your existing NA housings...grind them out, or use a torch to cut them out. The latter takes all of 4 minutes, including lighting the torch. True, the cut does leave a bit of a rough edge, but I personally don't think that'll ever hinder anything. After all, most NA guys would say that their previous engine made pretty good power with that big *** diffuser in the way. With 98% of it cut out it will flow a LOT better than it used to..., even with a little bit of a rough edge on the lower end of the port sleeve. You can still grind this rough edge down if you wanted...
So, this negates any advantage you could have by buying turbo housings for use in your engine. The fact of the matter is, year for year, turbo housings are identical to NA housings, OTHER than the diffuser and the coolant passage at the LIM. The only time I can see using turbo housings as being worthwhile is if you're buying brand new ones. IF your original NA ones are useable then just use those.
#14
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Just because of the diffuser...For many people, it's easier to swap housings then grind out the diffuser (lots of people don't have air tools, electric grinders, etc.). But if you can grind out the diffuser (as I did, and it seems Kevin does) then more power to you.
#15
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If the housings are otherwise identical, why not get some junked TII housings and just swap the exhaust inserts? I'm sure it can't be too hard to find junked TII housings. Then you don't have to worry about messing with the diffusers at all...
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