brainndropp

Ok, so today I go to drive my car, I drove it around the block after everything was finished.....drove it real easy since it's a new clutch and all...I parked it

Later I went to back it up...put it in reverse and it moves back some, put it in nuetral go to put it back in reverse GRIND im like wtf did it again GRIND it wouldn't go in! So I try first GRIND it won't go in any gear What happened? Is the slave cylinder not disengaging the clutch all the way...I bled it the night before and it worked fine this morning and drove nice...then all of a sudden this. Why would it just do this all of a sudden...any ideas? I looked at the slave cylinder and it doesn't look like it's pushing it all the way in BUT it should disengage it enough to put it in gear, but maybe now.....


Anyone have an idea this is all that's stopping me from driving my car after about 6 months of working on it, swapping the motor, tranny, and rear end and suspension, brakes soooo much work and now this stopping me from enjoying my car Im bumbing

WAYNE88N/A

how old are the seals in the master & slave cylinders? you might need a rebuild...hope it's hydraulics & not the clutch assy....

brainndropp

Clutch assembly is all new, pilot bearing is new and throwout bearing is new.

Project84

I would check the master and slave cylinder to see if they are leaking. If one of them are leaking or their is air in the system, (or low fluid level) then the slave cylinder won't get full travel.

brainndropp

I think it's not bled right....I will try it tommorrow....but does anyone think something inside the clutch assembly could have given out and prevented the clutch from disengaging?

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Don't know what type of clutch assembly you installed, but chances are the higher pressure of the new plate caused the hydraulics to go south. Can't think of anything inside the assembly that would cause the problem other than the pilot bearing and that is new, clutch fork broken or bent which I doubt. Check hydraulics!

rotoboy20

i had an 85 saab turbo 900 that did the same thing. so your clutch pedal has hardly any pressure behind it right? all you feel is the spring on the pedal? well then it definitly needs to be blead. the best and quickest way to do this is to get a pressure bleeder. normal vac bleeders dont bleed fast enough to get all the air out of the line.

-chris

WAYNE88N/A

hopefully your throwout bearing was installed on the fork arm correctly & didn't get out of whack...

brainndropp

I installed it the way the old one came out... the arms around the fork..

WAYNE88N/A

I've had the pleasure of experiencing this also: the little round "ball" that the fork arm pivots on will wear out, and the throwout bearing won't hit the pressure plate dead on, causing problems...had to replace the front plate on the tranny to fix it...hope I'm not scaring ya here LOL.

brainndropp

Yeah, you're not this tranny was from a friend and was installed along with the motor...so it was a working tranny....

brainndropp

Ok rebled it all...I really think it's something internal

WAYNE88N/A

do you get normal "clutch feel"? If so, it's probably internal, bit me in the *** too...check that fork arm pivot point when ya get it back apart...

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Before you pull it apart check the travel of the fork. Check to see if the hydraulics are working. Make certain that when the play is gone from the pedal, and the t/o brg is touching the pp, the fork continues to move and nothing bleeding around the cylinder internally. You could bleed the system all day, but if you've got another problem, it won't help.

WAYNE88N/A

Turbonut is right- make damn sure it's not the hydraulics first...you never said if the seals inside the cylinders are fairly new or not...

uhvnutn

Try to bleed the master and slave and if that doesnt work buy new ones. They should be fairly cheep.