maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

ok i have posted on here b4 ab my car having problems. this thing is so f'ed up its not even funny. one day it runs half way decent and the next it wont run while in boost. story time. engine and tranny were in my red 86 ran great till turbo shot ****. then i found this really nice roller for 100 bucks from my buddy. swapped engine. added rtek 1.7 and 720cc secondaries. and a front mount. one day this thing will run decent and blow the tires off in 3rd gear. next day once u hit 3 grand it just has a horrible horrible miss. replaced plugs and wires. fuel pressure is at 40 psi vacuum on. is there any chance that this rtek ecu could be bad? or my 720s are bad? because under 3 grand it runs good. but even when u free rev it, it has the miss. plugs are black. car doesnt flood. i dont have my wide band hooked up yet. i tried another n332 ecu i had and it still did the same thing. im just getting so mad. one day its amazing and the next i just want to burn it to the ground. does this sound like the secondaries are messed up? if so y would they work fine one day but the next they dont. im really fed up with it. i cant afford to dump anymore money into it. if anyone has any suggestions please help.

HAILERS

Check the number on your boost/pressure sensor and it should have N318 on it.

The stumble while *free reving* in the driveway reminds me of a test in the 1986-87 FSM for the non turbo engine where you plug the vac line to the boost/pressure sensor and rev the engine to over 3800rpm and listen with a stethscope to the secondary injectors to *hear* if they are working or not. Page 4A-69 of the 87 FSM.

They remove the vacuum line and plug it to simulate to the ECU a load on the engine, therefore secondarys should work over 3800 rpm.

Pretty sure this works on a turbo car. I'll check it out later. I should KNOW by now, but...I forget right now. I more or less remember doing this on a turbo car so I could make the secondarys operate and get some flow thru them for ??? some reason or the other.

Anyway, even on a non turbo, when you hit the 3800 rpm mark, the engine runs rougher because of the secondarys coming online. Fact is runs crummy in the driveway. Lack of air flow I suspect.

Can't really help much other than that.

V8slayer

Don't threat us like that and say crush it

HAILERS

Ehh,,that didn't work on my turbo car. Works on non turbos though. Sorry 'bout that.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Pull some engine codes: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html. Maybe something will pop up and give you a lead.

Also, black spark plugs indicate an overly rich mixture. Most driving is done metering around 14.7 AFR, so the plugs should be tan/brown.

EvilWankel

iTrader: (2)

I thought the 1.7 Rtek didnt compensate for different sized injectors?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

^ It does, that's the whole point. But that doesn't explain why his plugs are black.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

I would be VERY surprised to see brown or tan plugs come out of any rotary engine (especially boosted) after at least 5,000 miles. My car running 100% stock NA and after boost still has black plugs with brown deposits (oil). Therefore I don't believe this is an accurate way to troubleshoot the car.

Its obvious that you are having problems with your secondaries coming on. You should hook up the wideband and confirm it. Check and clean the grounds and test the injectors. No reason to get frustrated...Key on engine off, fuel pump jumped, UIM off, apply +/- to the injectors and note the spray pattern.

Check and adjust ignition timing too for the hell of it.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

What brand are the 720s? Their's a lot of issues with venom injectors (if thats what you have).

My next idea would be the timing. I had a friend that had a T2 that was missing really bad until he re-zero'd the timing. It ran perfect after that.