Alright well i will explain what i mean because right now the only thing im sure of is nothing haha! (86 na) Ive been having a 3800rpm wall, likely the secondaries not coming online now that I think everything else is in good order. I thought I fixed the problem on three occasions. First I noticed the trailing wires were on backwards, no improvement . Second I thought my ground under the throttle body was crap as it was corroded, cleaned and no improvement. And finally I fixed a seized aux port, certain this was the problem I went out for a quick rip. Again, little improvement, slightly more power but still have a brick wall at 3800 rpm with wide open throttle. If im a quarter throttle she will go to redline under load, which leads me to believe my secondaries arnt coming online. but why? is this really my problem? who the f*uck knows? not me, because I was certain I solved the problem a few times. Now I noticed when I took my aux port off to unseized it that there are two air holes on it, to move the rod and oipen the ports, but what I also noticed was there was only one of these holes on the motor. I thought it was just clogged so i tried to clear it with a pick, but it felt like solid metal. I figured thats the way it is beause I could not find any reference to tell me otherwise. Can someone verify this for me please? I have also readjusted my tps (which is in good working order) done all the 3800 rpm ground fixes, and tried different injectors and checked all vacuum hoses....new plugs, fuel filters, leads, oil change, rad fluid change... the regualar out of storage service. Its making me nuts, I can seem to get a grasp of what the problem is. What else can I test to help me in the right direction? Tomorrow I will be wiring the aux open to see if anything changes, as well as gutting my cat in case its clogged. Ive also tried to find codes but the car is giving me none( the led tester works, so dont ask haha. oh and one last thing.. or two. The wire on the top of rad, whats its purpose and negative results if its not hooked up? And is the trailing coil grounded by the mount or is it wired grounded? Thanks a million to whomever helps me out, if i get nowhere Ill have to ask to borrow an ecu from a nice forum member, who will recieve a nice token of appreciation on my part( hows a case of beer and some pizza sound?) haha.

 

Paragraph structure, punctuation, and SEARCH. Common problem.

 

the 5/6th ports only have one port in the manifold.

try making sure your secondary butterflies are actually opening and also be sure your secondary solenoind operated choke butterfly isn't working in reverse somehow, such as a restriction in the line holding vacuum to keep them closed.

 

wow your a smart one, because I really knew how to fix the other three problems I had without searching I admit thats a disaster of a paragraph but there was a few questions throw in there, ones im sure your are not smart enough to answer so dont bother trying.

Karack, you always hav something good to say, thanks bud I will try that out today and keep you posted.

 

Confirm that the secondary injectors are seeing 12V with the engine idling. Go to the Fuel and Emissions section of the FSM if you're unsure how to check this at the ECU itself. While there you can test the pressure sensor output.

Also, the fail position of the double throttle diaphragm is open. I don't think I've ever seen a working one on an S4 actually.

 

well I cant believe I didnt see this before. My compand pressure sensor dont match. I need a n327 comp if anyone has one after discovering this I disconnected it to see if I had a large change in my problem. I did. A wall at 3500 now, impossible to get past, even without load & wtf? I pt it all back together so I can drive it quarter throttle. guess what, still a brick wall. now im confused beyond belief. Should it not go back to how it was before, where the hell is this wall coming from now?

 

What's the part number on your ECU & pressure sensor? N326 or N327 are basically the same.

The pressure sensor output does play a role in secondary injector switching. The secondaries don't come on until certain conditions have been met, and something like -2 inHg vacuum is one of them.

 

ecu is n326 and pressure sensor is n327. I changed out the comp cuz my old one was fried and had a no start problem, got it running not knowing the ecu and sensor had to match. I also just found my alturnator is finished, if im not mistaken, a bad alt wont open secondaries?? doesnt it take the voltage from that, really im not sure so please correct me if im wrong... .woah what a can of worms ive found this week haha I actually dont mind all these things going wrong. I know i will own a seven forever and these things are really helping me learn a lot about the cr and how it operates, good brain investment for the future

 

I checked the secondary injectors at the clips, no voltage to both of them? whats this mean? probabl nothing eh, ill check it at the ecu.

 

i checked them at the ecu, 3 are at bott voltage with the key on, one doesnt seem to get anything... hmm weird.... these are the 4 green wires on the small ecu connector.

 

sorry about the multiple posts, im back and forth with my testing, the BAC resistance is out of spec also. what can that do? Im posting a video tonight on how its running now in just the driveway. ughh

 

No, the whole car can run off the battery for a little while, but a bad alternator will not charge it. It will run long enough to strand you somewhere.

Wire colors should be LG, LG/W, LG/R, LG/B. Double check the one that came up 0V. If it really isn't powered, you'll probably need to trace the wiring back to see if there is damage somewhere. At the injectors themselves, one side will be 12V and the other will be ground.

An out-of-spec BAC could make a stable idle harder to achieve. The ECU uses it to compensate for mechanical & electrical loads.

 

ok so if I used my dvm and put the two tips into either side of the injector clip i will get 12v? or will i have to ground the dvm on the engine? because when i checked them today I put the two dvm wires in the plug on both secondaries and got sweet nothing, even with boost sensor capped and abouve 3500 rpm...
I just cant understand why I have a full wall at 3800rpm now, before I could get past it on light throttle, now I cant. Before it could free rev in neutral, now it stops at the 3800 wall... its kind of depressing ahaha thanks again, you are really helping me out

 

Sticking both leads of the multimeter into the injector clip should still show 12V. It doesn't matter if you ground it to the ground wire or to the chassis.

Did you also unplug the TPS when you removed the vaccum line from the pressure sensor (like page 4A-69 of the FSM says)? Besides checking voltage at the injector clips, you could also take something like a screwdriver and hold it against the injector body while revving above 3500 RPM. Use it like a stethoscope and you should be able to hear a clicking noise if the injector is firing.

 

lets say they are not firing and have no voltage, what then, just bad wiring, bad ecu or? thanks again, i think i may owe you a few beers heh¸heh

 

Wiring issue or a burned out section of the ECU could do it.

 

damn if its the ecu then that would be number two ive burnt. Maybe i should overhaul on the wiring to make sure i wont burn another.

 

Just want to say thanks a tonne. After closer insepections of the ecu and the wiring I have found both to be defective. I must have pinched an injector wire with getting to my ground under the UIM causing my problem to get worse and also after testing and dissassembly of the ECU I have found several burn spots on it. Im anxious to get my replacement, thats when ill dig into the wiring, at least my testing had shown that the front primar injector is not getting power. Again, thanks, yo have tought me a tonne.

 

No problem. Definitely find any shorts in the wiring before replacing the ECU. Wiring shorts are probably the reason you've gone through a couple ECUs now, and they will only lead to more potential damage.