The help Kent diagnose CEL codes thread!
06-01-04, 12:37 AM
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The help Kent diagnose CEL codes thread!
Ok this is the second time typing this out since Rx-7 club didn't like my first post apparently...
On the drive across town, I decided I would have to check CEL codes when Igot home. The constant stumbling and surging below 3k rpm was a pita. The no power below 2k, little power below 3k, and ape rape above 3800 was pretty consistant, and made Accel from stop = slip massive amounts of clutch.
Also it should be noted that I have a 1200 rpm idle about 10% of the time. the other 90% of the time is heel toe at approaching stoplights to keep the engine from dieing. This is because of the secondary plates gone, and I never achieved decent idle since. Its sporadic at best, sometimes has a solid 1200 idle, other times, sputter to nothing.
First thing that came to mind was that even though the TPS was set a few months ago, its whack now (hopefuly thats all anyhow).
That said...
Emissions removed. Removed BAC, ACV, 2ndary TB plates. Efan.
All solenoid harnesses have been hooked back up to their respective Solenoid so as to trip less CEL codes. The only solenoid that isn't hooked up, is the aux port solenoid. Its used to activate the air pump for the aux port rework.
CODES:
13: Pressure Sensor
30: Split Air Bypass Solenoid (for emissions?)
33: Port Air Bypass Solenoid (aux ports)
34: Idle control Solenoid (BAC)
13: Pressure Sensor.
This thing has been tripping ever since the 5spd swap. I don't know why, or whats wrong with it. It connects to one of the nipples on the LIM. The line does has vaccuum, as it tees off into a vac gauge. The sensor was tripping the code before the vac gauge was installed, -- thats one of the reasons i installed the vac gauge. Is it just whack? Should I just replace it, or test it?
30: Split Air Bypass Solenoid.
I thought this was to switch air into the catalytic converter. I don't have any cats now. However all solenoids (from the solenoid/rats-nest rack have been connected except one). What causes this to trip?
33: Port Air Bypass Solenoid
This is connected to my aux port activation. This code is expected.
34: Idle Speed Control Solenoid.
BAC has been removed, water line rerun. I didn't realise this was a solenoid, but am not suprised. The wire this connects to is one the passenger (right) side of the block near the uim correct? This code should be expected.
What do you think guys?
On the drive across town, I decided I would have to check CEL codes when Igot home. The constant stumbling and surging below 3k rpm was a pita. The no power below 2k, little power below 3k, and ape rape above 3800 was pretty consistant, and made Accel from stop = slip massive amounts of clutch.
Also it should be noted that I have a 1200 rpm idle about 10% of the time. the other 90% of the time is heel toe at approaching stoplights to keep the engine from dieing. This is because of the secondary plates gone, and I never achieved decent idle since. Its sporadic at best, sometimes has a solid 1200 idle, other times, sputter to nothing.
First thing that came to mind was that even though the TPS was set a few months ago, its whack now (hopefuly thats all anyhow).
That said...
Emissions removed. Removed BAC, ACV, 2ndary TB plates. Efan.
All solenoid harnesses have been hooked back up to their respective Solenoid so as to trip less CEL codes. The only solenoid that isn't hooked up, is the aux port solenoid. Its used to activate the air pump for the aux port rework.
CODES:
13: Pressure Sensor
30: Split Air Bypass Solenoid (for emissions?)
33: Port Air Bypass Solenoid (aux ports)
34: Idle control Solenoid (BAC)
13: Pressure Sensor.
This thing has been tripping ever since the 5spd swap. I don't know why, or whats wrong with it. It connects to one of the nipples on the LIM. The line does has vaccuum, as it tees off into a vac gauge. The sensor was tripping the code before the vac gauge was installed, -- thats one of the reasons i installed the vac gauge. Is it just whack? Should I just replace it, or test it?
30: Split Air Bypass Solenoid.
I thought this was to switch air into the catalytic converter. I don't have any cats now. However all solenoids (from the solenoid/rats-nest rack have been connected except one). What causes this to trip?
33: Port Air Bypass Solenoid
This is connected to my aux port activation. This code is expected.
34: Idle Speed Control Solenoid.
BAC has been removed, water line rerun. I didn't realise this was a solenoid, but am not suprised. The wire this connects to is one the passenger (right) side of the block near the uim correct? This code should be expected.
What do you think guys?
06-01-04, 01:15 AM
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lol no!!!
It took 2 weeks last time, and 4 manifold teardowns just to get the car to run under 3k rpm. I'll check the vac lines, but nothign will get me to tear those manifolds down again., everything was flush with sandwiched gaskets and Ultra copper 2. There aren't any leaks there. But-- the lines are a possibility.
I don't know though-- I know that pressure sensor is seeing vac, cause I've got the vac gauge on the same nipple...
It took 2 weeks last time, and 4 manifold teardowns just to get the car to run under 3k rpm. I'll check the vac lines, but nothign will get me to tear those manifolds down again., everything was flush with sandwiched gaskets and Ultra copper 2. There aren't any leaks there. But-- the lines are a possibility.
I don't know though-- I know that pressure sensor is seeing vac, cause I've got the vac gauge on the same nipple...
06-01-04, 02:19 AM
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Ok My S5 TPS adjustment session.
Pre adjustment: 1.22kohms
Post Adjustment: ~1.00kohms
Video (2.3mb on a slow server-- anyone care to host?): http://sheepdog.ar2engineering.net/p...--tps/tps3.wmv
Results:
I took her for a quick spin. There is almost no studdering anymore. She climbs hard from 3k to 7k without studdering. Under 3k is still problem causing on accell. However under 3k crusing seems to be fine.
Thats one issue solved. Now about that pressure sensor...
EDIT: I was going to whine about not having a how to specificaly made for the s5 tps. Well.. it took all of 5 minutes to get the results I did off of using an s4 how to. So bleh.
Pre adjustment: 1.22kohms
Post Adjustment: ~1.00kohms
Video (2.3mb on a slow server-- anyone care to host?): http://sheepdog.ar2engineering.net/p...--tps/tps3.wmv
Results:
I took her for a quick spin. There is almost no studdering anymore. She climbs hard from 3k to 7k without studdering. Under 3k is still problem causing on accell. However under 3k crusing seems to be fine.
Thats one issue solved. Now about that pressure sensor...
EDIT: I was going to whine about not having a how to specificaly made for the s5 tps. Well.. it took all of 5 minutes to get the results I did off of using an s4 how to. So bleh.
Last edited by Kenteth; 06-01-04 at 02:21 AM.
06-01-04, 04:33 AM
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Originally posted by Kenteth
it should be noted that I have a 1200 rpm idle about 10% of the time. the other 90% of the time is heel toe at approaching stoplights to keep the engine from dieing. This is because of the secondary plates gone...
it should be noted that I have a 1200 rpm idle about 10% of the time. the other 90% of the time is heel toe at approaching stoplights to keep the engine from dieing. This is because of the secondary plates gone...
13: Pressure Sensor.
Should I just replace it, or test it?
Should I just replace it, or test it?
30: Split Air Bypass Solenoid.
I thought this was to switch air into the catalytic converter. I don't have any cats now. However all solenoids (from the solenoid/rats-nest rack have been connected except one). What causes this to trip?
I thought this was to switch air into the catalytic converter. I don't have any cats now. However all solenoids (from the solenoid/rats-nest rack have been connected except one). What causes this to trip?
34: Idle Speed Control Solenoid.
BAC has been removed, water line rerun. I didn't realise this was a solenoid, but am not suprised. The wire this connects to is one the passenger (right) side of the block near the uim correct? This code should be expected.
BAC has been removed, water line rerun. I didn't realise this was a solenoid, but am not suprised. The wire this connects to is one the passenger (right) side of the block near the uim correct? This code should be expected.
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06-01-04, 10:36 AM
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****30: Split Air Bypass Solenoid.
I thought this was to switch air into the catalytic converter. I don't have any cats now. However all solenoids (from the solenoid/rats-nest rack have been connected except one). What causes this to trip?*****
Probably a bad fifth gear switch. If you have noticed that when in fifth gear you happen to see the *SHIFT LIGHT* flicker on and off on occasion.
The Split Air solenoid only works /operates in FIFTH gear. It knows when the car is in fifth by the ....FIFTH GEAR SWITCH on the transmission.
I thought this was to switch air into the catalytic converter. I don't have any cats now. However all solenoids (from the solenoid/rats-nest rack have been connected except one). What causes this to trip?*****
Probably a bad fifth gear switch. If you have noticed that when in fifth gear you happen to see the *SHIFT LIGHT* flicker on and off on occasion.
The Split Air solenoid only works /operates in FIFTH gear. It knows when the car is in fifth by the ....FIFTH GEAR SWITCH on the transmission.
06-01-04, 12:54 PM
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^^ Running an auto gauge cluster (never swapped it out with the 5spd swap). But I never wired anything specificaly for 5th gear. So that may explain 30...
06-01-04, 12:58 PM
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
No it's not...
You should alway test before replacing.
The split air solenoid is mounted in the ACV. Since you have no ACV...
Why even remove it? There's no point. Put it back on and not only will the code go away, you'll also have a decent idle!
No it's not...
You should alway test before replacing.
The split air solenoid is mounted in the ACV. Since you have no ACV...
Why even remove it? There's no point. Put it back on and not only will the code go away, you'll also have a decent idle!
Split air also causing about 5th gear switch. But since I have no ACV or cats, it explains it as well. I will be looking at reinstalling the BAC. Doesn't this require a cam or somethign to be reinstalled on the TB.
Remember TB mod.-- or is it hust plug and play (install BAC, hookup wire, and two coolant lines?)
06-01-04, 04:12 PM
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The split air solenoid is in the ACV. You have a code because it's not plugged in. Nothing to do with the cat.
The BAC valve is totaly seperate from the TB. Not even slightly related.
The BAC valve is totaly seperate from the TB. Not even slightly related.
06-01-04, 04:24 PM
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If you're like me, as soon as the exhaust was modified, the "out of normal" range boost pressures trip the boost sensor code every time I get on it, so to me anyway, it's a normal thing now (I wired up some LED's permanently from the check plug to the cockpit, so I see every code in real time). Doesn't seem to affect performance at all...
06-01-04, 04:46 PM
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The NA pressure sensor reads up to and just beyond atmospheric pressure. Unless you add a turbo, I don't see how you can get the pressure sensor out of its normal range.
Last edited by NZConvertible; 06-01-04 at 04:53 PM.
06-01-04, 06:17 PM
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I know, had me stumped too (as to why the code kept popping up)...Both boost sensors I have do it...My theories also include the fact that my 5/6 ports open a little early (about 3K) with the setup I have now, and the sudden drop in manifold pressure is triggering it...I dunno, but like I said, it doesn't seem to affect performance...
06-01-04, 10:17 PM
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Hey guys, on my long *** drive to work today, I was sitting in stoplight traffic when the car spuuters from me holding the pedal down to attain 3k idle. After trying to start a bunch of times, I pushed her into a parking spot along the road
Opened the hood, and one of teh vac lines (pre TB Plates) that I made that conncets to a apider and then to the injector bleeds had totaly split down the middle. I was left with this gaping hole in the intake tubing, and a bunch of un-vac'd fuel bleeds.
So what did I do? Well of course, I had almost the entire toolshop in the hatch of my car, so I whipped out a couple tackle boxes and pulled out some small vac caps for the injector bleeds, and ductape to fill the big hole on the intake tubing. It seems to have done the job enough to have gotten me to work and back.
Looks like this vac leak problem really could be culprit to alot of problems... Wonder how many other of my new vac lines (bought 4 months ago) are splitting...
Opened the hood, and one of teh vac lines (pre TB Plates) that I made that conncets to a apider and then to the injector bleeds had totaly split down the middle. I was left with this gaping hole in the intake tubing, and a bunch of un-vac'd fuel bleeds.
So what did I do? Well of course, I had almost the entire toolshop in the hatch of my car, so I whipped out a couple tackle boxes and pulled out some small vac caps for the injector bleeds, and ductape to fill the big hole on the intake tubing. It seems to have done the job enough to have gotten me to work and back.
Looks like this vac leak problem really could be culprit to alot of problems... Wonder how many other of my new vac lines (bought 4 months ago) are splitting...
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