just startn

iTrader: (33)

EARLY 88 turbo. The problem was wouldnt start when warm. so put a fuel pump cut switch on it basically to see if the injectors were leaking and walah you could start it up warm with using the switch. got new injectorshttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190298096229&sspagenam e=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=#ht_500wt_1122 but the ones that were in the car were bogus late 87 early 88 redtop, notch on the side instead of in the center so i had to wire resistors. The car has good compression. The problem is STILLLL the car WILL NOT START when its warm wtf!!!! help!!!! the car still starts up using the switch though.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Mazdatrix has a Little gadget that is supposed to help with "flooding".it is a Piped thingie that attahes to your Inlet and return Fuel lines,so that the Pressure is Bled off.This is supposed to aid the Car,by not having Pressure left in the lines,and prevents the gas from leaking through Bad injectors.
Question.:Have you tried to swap the Water thermo sensor behind the water pump?..That sender tells the ECU when the car is Warm,or cold...When the car is Cold,it gets MORE Fuel.But If the Sender is shot,it will give out Too much fuel and make it hard to start..
anyways.Good luck.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Well those "new" injectors shoud of solved your problem if it is the flooding issue. The mazdatrix tool is only a bandaid for a leaky injector problem. Are your spark plugs fouled out due to previous flooding? This is something I would look at first. Also as mentioned above, checked that sensor. Try this also.

Instead of using your fuel cut switch to kill your engine, drive around, warm up your car fully. Then go back home and before you shut your car off, push on the gas pedal fully and when the rpm needle just about reaches 4-5k rpm, turn the key to the off position WHILE STILL holding the gas pedal until the engine dies.

Now try to start her up. It should start up fine. But let me know what happens and I would look into checking the resistance on the water thermo sensor to make sure it is within spec, all it should take is 5 minutes with a multimeter.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

I thought it should have been fixed but. I was going to change that sensor and put mine in there that i know is good but just havn't done it. i will do the hold 4-5k shutoff hold the pedal the whole time thing and let you know how it goes. These damn cars that have all the OEM **** just frustrates me lol.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Yeah I will keep checking let me know what happens after changing the sensor and the 4-5k thing.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

I went through the same thing with mine. First time i had flooding problems, they put a little chip to an ECU wire in my car. After a few years this failed and I had traditional flooding problems. After a while I got my injectors cleaned. Other then being able to stand behind my car again while idleing no change.(It ran pig rich befor that). After a while i discoverd that if I grounded out the little "chip" on my ECU it would work. Click on switch when car is hot, off when car is cold.
Another year, enginge goes boom! Stock engine 153k, I get it rebuilt. Great compression, injectors re-cleaned. Still same ****. They put in a fuel cut switch for me befor i could explaine the "chip thingy"

I put in a Rtek 2.0 with flood kill, it works great for the "standard flooding" but i still have to use my little "chip" for hot and cold starts.

I get Brand new 720s all around, same ****
I wait
I wait
I wait
Rtek 2.1 comes out. I adjust the fuel vs. temp screen. My car never floods any more. I can tell when it would have flooded because it takes just a little longer to start, but then the Rtek does its job.
No more fuel cut switch, no more hot start "chip" thingy, just no more floods.......... and then my battry dies.......crap.

Any way. If its not the injectors then the pulse width of your fuel is messed up. The rtek will fix it.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

read this --> https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/looking-car-has-hot-start-problems-499744/

Oh and jjcobm, that girl i see when I hit alt+F4 is HOT HOT HOT!

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

and one more --> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=cranking

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Thanks, I read the one in the second link just now but i read the one that hailers made a couple weeks ago and its a very good read. The dudes not going to get rtek he dont know nothing about anythign thats why im working on the car. Im going to do whats been previusly posted and if that don't help he's SOL

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

AUGieDogie: hahaha i wonder how many people i've got with that....

To the OP: one more thing i can ask you/think of is, when you do a completly cold start will the car start up AND idle fine? what is the idle set to on the tachometer?

Reason I ask is because a vacuum leak can also give you a hard start problem, and knowing what your idling at will definetly let you know if you have one or if there is something not right....

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

im experiencing somewhat the same issue. cold start will fire up fine, but when hot it usually floods everytime. when the motor is hot is will idle roughly at about 750 and will sound a little like it is missing and only reading 10-12 of vacuum. i have replaced my oil injectors new intake gasket blah blah and still the same thing. 88 10ae knightsport turbo, rebuilt motor apprx 20,xxx miles, walbro 255lph, six puck clutch, fcd, all emmisions removed, fmic, no a/c or p/s, rb exhaust, 1000cc secondaries 550 primarys. cant find any obvious vac or boost leaks. maybe fuel pressure regulator or water thermo? low oil pressure at idel and also getting horr gas mileage.oh and also strong smell of gas in oil im stumped....