Help! I think I have a transmission problem
10-25-11, 11:53 AM
#1
Help! I think I have a transmission problem
When I take it out of "P" into "R" or "D", I don't feel the transmission engage. When in "P", I can't roll or push it. In "R" or "D", I can. The car only pulls a little when I rev the motor to 5500rpms or higher. Help!
BTW there is plenty of tranny fluid in it too
BTW there is plenty of tranny fluid in it too
Last edited by FC3S Vert; 10-25-11 at 11:59 AM.
10-25-11, 12:20 PM
#3
did you check the fluid with the car running and in park or netural? The car will not more in park because there is a mechical parking pin, at least in most auto trans. I have checked the fluid in the trans in my blazer with the car off and the level look ok but the trans was slipping. When I was told it needed to be running in N or P the level was different. I don't like Auto trans they **** me off.
10-25-11, 02:27 PM
#5
fill bolt?
i'm pretty sure even these shitty auto transmissions had an actual dipstick. i'm not sure what you were checking.
dipstick should be in the engine bay by the firewall..
also note the tabs at the top of the image browser, where i found the answer to this simple question for you.
i'm pretty sure even these shitty auto transmissions had an actual dipstick. i'm not sure what you were checking.
dipstick should be in the engine bay by the firewall..
also note the tabs at the top of the image browser, where i found the answer to this simple question for you.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-25-11 at 02:33 PM.
10-25-11, 02:58 PM
#7
an "O"?
there's no stamp on the oil dipstick unless you consider the finger loop an O...
if i remember correct it is a black rubber plunger just to the passenger side at the rear of the engine at the firewall. pretty standard location for transmission fillers actually.
there's no stamp on the oil dipstick unless you consider the finger loop an O...
if i remember correct it is a black rubber plunger just to the passenger side at the rear of the engine at the firewall. pretty standard location for transmission fillers actually.
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10-26-11, 08:17 AM
#10
No, I'm fixing the OMP right now 
Does the level go up and down when the engine is running in "P"? Does it go up and down when it's out of "P"? Sorry for the noob questions. I've never had an auto before.
Also when you put it in gear, is the shifter connected to a shaft or is it electronically controlled?
Does the level go up and down when the engine is running in "P"? Does it go up and down when it's out of "P"? Sorry for the noob questions. I've never had an auto before.Also when you put it in gear, is the shifter connected to a shaft or is it electronically controlled?
10-26-11, 10:25 AM
#11
Karack already provided you with a pointer to the answers to all your questions. The Factory Service Manual (FSM) is available online. The AT chapter is here. You'll find the Troubleshooting guide on page 11 and the fluid level check procedure on page 15. Both page references are the PDF pages not the printed page number.
You have 5 posts so you're new to the site. A couple of tips that I think you will find will greatly increase the value you can get from site are:
1) If you have a question always search first. In the banner bar at the top of the thread/forum you'll see an option to Search this Thread or Search this Forum. In your case I would have tried "slipping", "automatic slipping", "AT slipping", "AT fluid level" etc. It's unusual for a question to never have been asked before.
2) Next look in the FSM. Mazda spent a lot of money creating that tome and not only does it include the how to remove, rebuild and replace information but it tells you how things work and how to troubleshoot problems.
3) Only then post a question and provide as much info as you can. You can put a description of your car in your signature so it's always available and this is important because there are differences between verts and coupes, turbos and NAs, S4s and S5s, etc.
4) When people respond to your questions be sure to read the whole thing. As noted before Karack said that his pict showed you what you need to know.
Hope that helps and good luck with your project.
You have 5 posts so you're new to the site. A couple of tips that I think you will find will greatly increase the value you can get from site are:
1) If you have a question always search first. In the banner bar at the top of the thread/forum you'll see an option to Search this Thread or Search this Forum. In your case I would have tried "slipping", "automatic slipping", "AT slipping", "AT fluid level" etc. It's unusual for a question to never have been asked before.
2) Next look in the FSM. Mazda spent a lot of money creating that tome and not only does it include the how to remove, rebuild and replace information but it tells you how things work and how to troubleshoot problems.
3) Only then post a question and provide as much info as you can. You can put a description of your car in your signature so it's always available and this is important because there are differences between verts and coupes, turbos and NAs, S4s and S5s, etc.
4) When people respond to your questions be sure to read the whole thing. As noted before Karack said that his pict showed you what you need to know.
Hope that helps and good luck with your project.
10-26-11, 11:57 AM
#15
most definitely, you won't get a ton of assistance with the auto transmissions here as they are actually quite rare and had to be ordered as a factory option. i have only worked on 2, yes that is TWO automatic FCs in 10 years of rotary specialized work. they simply aren't worth fixing the auto in.
yes you do have to have the engine running and in park, the car should also be fully warmed up and the fluid level should be at the top of the hashed area on the dipstick.
yes you do have to have the engine running and in park, the car should also be fully warmed up and the fluid level should be at the top of the hashed area on the dipstick.
10-26-11, 01:49 PM
#16
most definitely, you won't get a ton of assistance with the auto transmissions here as they are actually quite rare and had to be ordered as a factory option. I have only worked on 2, yes that is two automatic fcs in 10 years of rotary specialized work. They simply aren't worth fixing the auto in.
Yes you do have to have the engine running and in park, the car should also be fully warmed up and the fluid level should be at the top of the hashed area on the dipstick.
Yes you do have to have the engine running and in park, the car should also be fully warmed up and the fluid level should be at the top of the hashed area on the dipstick.
10-27-11, 10:43 AM
#17
Ha! I was trying to be polite and instructive! As you read the forums you'll see some "search first" responses that go way beyond a "bitch slap"!!! 
The site is very valuable and as long as it is obvious you have done your due diligence people tend to be very helpful. Always keep in mind no one is being paid to answer your questions.
The auto tranny is a performance sucking black hole. A manual (either the NA or turbo variant) swap makes all the difference in the world. You can check the 2nd Gen archives (and search!) for writeups on the process as well as this write-up to get a sense if you want to take a shot at it.
The site is very valuable and as long as it is obvious you have done your due diligence people tend to be very helpful. Always keep in mind no one is being paid to answer your questions.
The auto tranny is a performance sucking black hole. A manual (either the NA or turbo variant) swap makes all the difference in the world. You can check the 2nd Gen archives (and search!
) for writeups on the process as well as this write-up to get a sense if you want to take a shot at it.
10-27-11, 05:27 PM
#20
SEARCH! Slap! Slap! Slap!
It's been a while but IIRC the vert doesnt have the manual tranny mounting holes so you have to fab up a bracket. We based our's off of this writeup in the 2nd gen archive and it's worked fine for the last 5 years. We initially just put in the manual tranny with the NA engine (really woke it up) while we built the Turbo.
It's been a while but IIRC the vert doesnt have the manual tranny mounting holes so you have to fab up a bracket. We based our's off of this writeup in the 2nd gen archive and it's worked fine for the last 5 years. We initially just put in the manual tranny with the NA engine (really woke it up) while we built the Turbo.
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