2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Help: How To Remove Stuck Upper Turbo Nut

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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 11:49 AM
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Help: How To Remove Stuck Upper Turbo Nut

I am one bolt away from getting my
turbo off of my 87 TII so I can port the
wastegate. My question is, Is there a easy
way or tool to get the top left bolt [turbo to
manifold] bolt off?
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 12:09 PM
  #2  
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a socket extension, socket, and socket wrench?

work it.

Otherwise I'll build and sell you a "special"-top-left-turbo-manny-bolt-remover-tool-SST for $100.
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 01:00 PM
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top left bolt should be easy to get off, I always thought the top right one was the bitch. Have you tried ratcheting wrenches?
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 02:03 PM
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IF the car is on ramps, you should be able to get at it with a box/open end wrench. ...from under the car.
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 02:17 PM
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If you're referring to it being "rusted" on there, just heat it with a torch. Guarantee it will work - it's how exhaust shops break everything loose. EriktheDead had the same problem not 2 weeks ago, and it worked like a charm.
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 02:31 PM
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From: land of slow hondas .... TULSA, OK
the top left bolt on the manifold should have a safety washer that is bent up to stop if from from coming off.. if you already know that(most likely) a 14 mm wrench is what you need after that is bent down with a flat head. that is the hardest bolt to deal with.. as for rust .. thats a lil close to the engine(oiled) to be rusted that bad.. unless you are up north somewhere i cant see that bolt getting that bad.
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 02:35 PM
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It's not the "scale" type of rust you'd see on an old, never-touched part. It's rust from the metal beginning to break down under the heat of the exhaust. Unless you keep it submerged in oil, it's going to happen. The nut and bolt will form a bond, and the heat of a torch will break it. Try it, you'll wonder why you've spent so many years spraying things with WD-40.
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 02:54 PM
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mopar rust penetrant, works better than a torch guaranteed... well in cases where it can actually get into if there is no sealed surface.
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 03:48 PM
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1. There's no reason to bump your topic after 5 minutes. Please don't do that.

2. Please choose a reasonable title for your thread. "Help, Please!!" is useless. I have updated the thread with a better title.
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 01:08 PM
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Sorry, Aaron Cake. Still learing post
edikett { did i spell that right?] I guess.
Tried to finish before next rainstorm.
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 01:59 PM
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MAPP torch worked for me - came off like butter - 20 bucks at home depot for one (buy the gas and nozzle seperately to save $)
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 05:22 AM
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From: n
e-t-i-q-u-e-t-t-e
http://www.dictionary.com/ is your friend - BOOKMARK IT!

Any of the easily available rust penetrants should work.
We just tore apart a motor with over 115k miles on it.
Even "feeble" WD-40 help us remove all the rusted turbo nuts.
I also like Liquid Wrench.


-Ted
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 07:47 AM
  #13  
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I used about a can of liquid wrench
and it came off just fine. Thanks for
your help guys.
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 10:35 AM
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For future record, the only good penetrating oil is PB Blaster. Once you've gone to PB, you will NEVER go back.
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 07:54 PM
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For instances where a torch won't do, I use something called "FREE" made by Certified Laboratories. It worked on several things that nothing else would. I liked it so much I bought a case of it.
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