we found that its not the ecu , its the timing, like some of u had said. being that its ported my mechanic says its a little hard to find the timing point. now what my prob is , lol getting the mechanic back over here to finish the job. it crank up to about 3000 rmp then back down, so atleast its a start. since i wanna get this car going, how can i as one person mess with the timing and starting it at the same time . i need your impute on that , who ever can help. thanks again you all have been great.

 

You need to find a new mechanic. Being ported doesn't change how you set the timing, read my post earlier in this thread for stabbing the CAS, just do that and you should be fine.

 

yes i know i need a new guy working on it, and im tired of waiting for **** like this so im gonna do it myself, thanks for the info man ill keep ya posteed as to what happens, thanks agaiin. rx7fromcal

 

I Went And Re Stabed The Cas, Got Where It Should Be . It Cranks , Gets Up To About 4 To 500 Rpm Then Backs Down To Just Cranking, Soooooo I Dont Know Man Im At A Loss. Anything Anybody Else Can Come Up With Let Me Know. Thanks Rx7fromcal

 

Adjust the idle via the screw on top of the TB/dynamic chamber OR tightening the throttle stop screw. This will raise your idle, which is a good idea when starting up a fresh rebuild anyways as it may need a higher idle to keep it running for the initial 30 min or so idle break-in. After that you can try lowering it and seeing if it holds okay, but sometimes rebuilds need the higher idle for the first 500 or so miles of break-in depending on what parts were new/reused in the engine.

 

ok man ill try that , hey dub thanks alot for all your help i really appreciate it, u have been a big help. thank u agian from the bottom of my heart this cars been a real bitch, if it wasnt for u guys out here i would be lost. my hats off to ya . thanks again. rx7fromcal

 

No problem, lots of us have been there ourselves so we know what it's like

 

Try advancing the timing as far as it will go(with the bolt in the slot on the cas). Depending on how the engine is ported you may have to run the timing a little different than stock. I have an 87 that's street ported(already done when I bought the car) and I have to run it advanced quite a bit. Never bothered to measure how much. It was really hard to start at the stock timing. On the other hand I've got an 86 that I street ported that's running stock timing an it's running mint.

Brent

 

ok , im hard up here now , would it hurt to tie a tow rope and pull start it???

 

Yah try pull starting it and seeing if you can get it going. If it does start, hold the throttle slightly (not driving but just in neutral, if possible) at around 3k rpms for a few seconds. SLOWLY let off and see if it will idle on its own, if it starts to want to die keep holding the throttle slightly.

Lots of times rebuilds are hard to start initially and do not want to idle very low, so you want to have the idle up high and its best to not have to hold the throttle since while it's idling you should be checking for leaks/etc in the engine bay. Let it idle for about 30-45 min after you get it started for the first time to build up some initial compression, after that set the idle to like 1-1.5k rpms for the first few hundred miles or so, it'll make things easier on you.

Good luck.

 

well im going to try that one day this week. will keep ya posted.

 

 

When Turning The Car Over Should I Set The Idle Screw As High As Possible?

 

If you screw it out too far, then you'll actually wind it out of the throttlebody. It won't hurt anything, but it's a beotch to get back into the throttlebody without ripping the o-ring. Be careful of that.. Normally it's only a few threads up, so after 6 or 8 complete turns, it really won't be adjusting anything further.

 

Ya , i was only going to unscrew it just a bit , not all the way , but i know what ur talking about , thanks for reminding me.

 

i had a cleint sit in the car turn it over while i finger banged the plunger pushing it in and out, got to fire up to 3000 rpms for about 15 secs, so by moving the plunger on the afm while its cranking , does that mean my afm is gone ?? im thinking so , give me some feed back here. thanks

 

well the prob is found that fricken afm has a flat spot in it , i had a person crank the engine, while i pressed all the way in on the plunger, had it fired up for about 10 minuts, so i ordered one will be here wed, thank gawd i figured this dam thing out , you all were a great help i couldnt have done it alone with out your inpute. thank you so muchhhhhhh. rx7fromcal

 

i put a new afm on , found out the wiring for the plug didnt have a good connection , now we have to tune the throttle body , does and body know what the specs are using a om meter on the throttle body . thanks

 

well , we have it running , bit now the idles all messted up we have checked the tb thats set to specs, cas is set . its kind crazy when i hit the gas its fine then starts acting like somethingscutting off the fuel to the tb when i hit the gas after a couple of secs. then i shut it off and it acts fine and does the same thing, im thinking its vacum, pulled the bac off checked it with a power wire thats fine . im sure its a vacum line. tell me what u guys think . thanks

 

any suggestions???

 

heres the deal i took off the whole top end today checked for vacum leaks everythings good, the car does start but its so crazy ides off revings off redid the top injectors they were alittle lose , thinking make the was a leak there , the only thing i can thing of now is that the ecu messed up , all this **** started when we were tuning the mapecu to the stock ecu , so im thinking the stock ecus fucked up tell me what u guys think, please helpppppppppppppppppppppppppppppp!!! thanks rx7fromcal